330GT 2+2 Series I Parts WANTED

Darren,

You have a long term project, treat it as such. When a part becomes available to you at a price you can afford, buy it. In the mean time, enjoy and preserve what you have.

Regards,

Art S.

 

I found out some good history on 6727.

It went to the USA in the very early 1970's got painted Rosso, and was raced!

It was rolled and had serious damage to the LH rear and LH front. The shell had a new roof, rear LH quarter and front welded on.

The car was left outside somewhere in New York over the winter and the block froze, pushing two holes out of it.

The car was bought back to the UK in the early eighties and had the body further restored, and a new engine fitted, but the chassis was still bent.
Car was then sold as a "restoration project" and finally broken for a 250 GTO replica. The guy building the replica discovered the twisted Chassis and was not best pleased. This I understand has now been replaced with new tubes which obviously put back the GTO completion date and cost more money. It was also sold WITHOUT the title or V5 as its called in the UK. 6727 has not been registered in UK since it left in the 1970's.

Now this is my BIG QUESTION.......

If the GTO replica has a mostly newly fabricated Chassis and an engine that was NOT originally from 6727.....

My shell has 30% of the original chassis left (remaining after centre section cut out), the original interior and dash etc etc.....and its still a 330GT 2+2

Who can claim the title to 6727?

 

The guy with the title in his hand, not a newly fabricated piece of titlework paper, and the frame member with the Ferrari factory stamped identity.

 

Where and on which part of a 330 frame is the number?
(picture please)

There are bits of the front frame, outriggers, suspension mounts still left in 6727's shell.

 

See http://www.330gt.com/images/ChasisSN.jpg

 

A belated thanks Kerry for the info.

Just a short line to update on progress of 6727. The damaged floor has been removed and the inner sills replaced. The rear jacking points have been remanufactured and the outer sills rebuilt where they had been hacked apart. (including the hidden from view inner-inner vertical sill plate) Turned down new jacking tubes on my lathe to original sizes & lengths so the pass through all 3 parts of the sill structure as they should.
The body is now sitting on a purpose made frame via all 4 jack points. Everythings been measured and re-measured. Currently working on the new chassis and retaining as much of the existing outriggers as possible.

 

Darren -- amazing progress. Look forward to watching this come together.

 

Today was a big landmark in 6727's restoration.

The newly made chassis was offered up, with a secondhand rear axle and most of the front suspension. Since I have no springs or shocks as yet I have made solid temporary struts/shocks out of some 1" tube. Everything was measured and re-measured over and over. We're within 2mm!
The solid temporary shocks I made are at fully laiden weight of the car so it's good to check all alignments with these bolted firmly in. Rather than second guess old lazy springs or uneven tyres & tyre pressures.

OK...now comes the bad news.

6727 was rolled and has a new roof and rear LH quarter. I know that when the chassis was cut out to make a 250GTO replica the whole rear end was no good as it was badly twisted/bent.
Unfortunately with new hubs on the car and an old wheel fitted it is NOW obvious that the old chassis was bent, pushing the old LH rear wheel forward, the replacement quarter was fitted to the car and the wheel arch aligned with the old wheel.

The problem I have now is that with a new straight chassis that's mm perfect the LH rear wheel looks too far back in the arch opening. All because the crafty so & so's fitted a new quarter to the car with a twisted chassis and adjusted it 1" 1/2" forward to align it with the rear LH wheel, so it looked square!!!

AGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!

I now have to cut off the whole rear quarter on the LH side and refit it properly!

It's definately wrong when you measure the arch position in relationship to the door opening on either side of the car and compare it, it's 1 1/2" out.

With the chassis missing and no point of reference you'd never have known.

I have a good idea that those who fitted the quarter and sold the car on, and on through 3 owners before the chassis was cut out MUST have known.

Caveat Emptor

But too be fair I did have my suspicions, as the rear quarter was fitted by someone who was doing something far from their abilities when you look at the welding!

Nevertheless its another minor setback, that'll get rectified properly at last.

 

Sounds an awesome project Darren - Good luck and i hope you find all the parts you need.

Any chance you cam give us some picture updated of your work, it sound fascinating - would love to see it.

Many thanks for the thread - all credit to you.

cheers Mark

 

Thanks for the kind remarks Mark.

I will post pictures at some point, but I'm currently too busy "doing" than just talking about it.

With a few hours to think about the misaligned rear quarter, the plan will be to get some thin marine grade plywood (flexible and strong) and make a template of the good rear arch profile on the RH side then compare it with the bad LH side, I'm beginning to think the replacement quarter was cut somewhere around the 12 o'clock point and the 1 1/2" taken out at somewhere towards the rear? The more I measure it with a rule, the more it differs with the RH good side.

Once I have a nice accurate template then some proper marking out can be done. I'm hopeful that I might just have to cut and remake from 12 o clock to 5 o'clock on the arch and leave the majority of the quarter panel on the car.

 

Hi all,

I just thought I should post an update on 6727’s progress.
It’s not easy building a vintage Ferrari on a budget of zero to £150 a month!
My quest is to totally rebuild the car and put it back on the road including buying it in the first place, all for under £10K

So far I have used what was left of the chassis outriggers, front end and sections that were left in the shell when it was cut up with a gas torch. These have been re-instated with inner sills rebuilt and the car is sitting on 4 wheels. (currently on damaged really rough alloys, but I am slowly collecting poor 3801’s which are being thrown out by owners with a view to rebuilding them to get 4 good Borrani’s out of 12 or more bad ones) If any one has any damaged 3801’s or parts of wheels that they think are no good please let me know.
I managed to get all the glass except one LHD door glass (anyone got one spare?). They are again quite badly scratched, and thrown out, but I plan on polishing the scratches out to “restore” the glass to a presentable condition.
Most of the stainless trims have been located from across the globe and I’ve just spent 3 weeks of evenings straightening, plannishing, filing and polishing just the sill trims back into shape, ready to put back on the car. I estimate another 6 months to refurbish the rest of the bent, dented and mangled trim I have found.
Painfully slow and delicate work, but well worth it.
The door handles I got were trash and again after a lot of filing and work I have re-made the operating mechanisms (posted on an earlier thread) so they are also ready to go.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/vintage-thru-365-gtc4-sponsored-redline-restorations/401985-330gt-2-2-door-handle-repairs.html

I have also got pretty much all the interior trim now, some of it has been out in all weathers for several years and has rotten leather, powder foam, white mould and mushrooms growing on it, but it can be used as a template to be remade.
I have trial fitted a lot of parts and its obvious these cars were hand made, and I am adjusting each bit of trim before its re-made so that the final result will be a good fit.
Apart from re-making the boot floor the shell is almost ready to repaint. Don’t be fooled by the pictures at the start of this thread, the work carried out previously on the shell (new front wings, valance rear quarter) etc was VERY poor quality and I have had to spend a lot of time re-doing it. This particularly annoys me as I know someone must have spent a lot of money at a so called specialist to carryout the work. In my opinion they caused more damage than good. Unfortunately I have had to expend several months of my time putting it right. I will now need to repaint the whole car as there wasn’t a single panel that hasn’t required work. The rear quarter has been re-aligned and the arches are now correct and symetrical each side. Despite all these faults, the results of the re-working should be stunning when done.

I still need a complete steering column, and steering wheel.

All the gauges and switches have been sourced and I’m half way through stripping and rebuilding them.
I have found someone to do some Mazak re-chroming so I’m collecting suitable parts to put in as a job lot. Dash heater controls, door handles, rear & front light bezels etc.

Does anyone know how the 330 dash vents come apart?
I have an idea that there must be a wire ring clip inside them that allows the centre vane section to rotate, with a sponge gasket to stop any rattles. They need to come apart as again the ones I found for little money are badly pitted, so need stripping, polishing and re-plating.
Has anyone taken them apart before? I know they are made not to come apart, but they need to for plating and to replace the foam.
Any ideas?





Kind regards
Darren

 

Hi darren


if you need any info I have a 330gt 64 MK1 for referance etc

Sean

 

Good luck with this....The parts you mention above are not the usual bits that get stripped for a 250 replica.....never seen door handles from a 330 on a 250 ?? Theres a handbook and parts book on ebay UK at the moment.......Look forward too seeing it back on the road.

 

Hi Darren. I know its early days but thopught you might like to have the original info on this car from the Maranello records......It may help with your registering the car with the DVLA.

6727 GT.....

Maranello order # 158.
First registered in UK : 28-1-1965.
First Owner. D. Hampshire.
Original Number : DAH 100.

Painted: Bianco ( 20.414 ).
Black Leather (VM 8500) with Grey carpets.

Look forward to seeing more photos.

paul

 

Many Thanks Paul,

Kerry has provided some useful information too, but has the interior listed as Blue, but I now know it was Black, so you are quite right with your post. Thanks.

Just to update my previous list of parts required....

2 x complete rear lights FOUND
2 x complete front side lights (below 4HL) JUST NEED CLEAR LENSES NOW
2 x Door handles FOUND
2 x Door locks JUST NEED ROUND KEY LOCKS
2 x complete door catches & latches/assemblies FOUND
2 x Bonnet (hood) hinges FOUND
1 x complete bonnet catch/lock mechanism (underside of bonnet & bulkhead) JUST NEED SHORT BONNET/HOOD STAY ROD ASSEMBLY
1 x boot lock & catch assemblies (as bonnet) JUST NEED PUSH BUTTON FOR BOOT LID
1 x windscreen chrome trim surround FOUND
1 x rear window chrome trim surround FOUND
2 x Door glass, frames and lifters JUST NEED WINDER HANDLES WIRE AND RUNNERS
2 x door internal catches and levers (all I have is lower main door cards) JUST NEED SURROUNDS FOR INTERIOR HANDLES.
2 x door cappings (bottom of windows, top of door cards) FOUND.
2 x rear quarter window opener catches (I have glass with holes for catches only) FOUND
1 x chrome Grille panel (fits on scuttle between wipers) FOUND
2 x chrome sill trim strips below doors FOUND
2 x chrome trim strips rain gutters on roof. FOUND

I also need the following

2 x Front bumper irons
2 x Front bumper iron chrome tube finishers
2 x wiper shaft fittings (the trims you see where the spindles pass through the scuttle)
1 x steering column complete from Wheel up to steering box.
1 x Front Centre console ashtray the surface mount one, not recessed

If anyone has any of the above, please let me know.

Still looking for information on how the get the dash vents apart for re-chroming?

Progress today was good, I have made a template for a fuel tank. I plan on making a stainless steel one in the form of the original.

Regards
Darren

 

Unfortunately no-one got back to me on how to get 330 dash vents apart for re-chroming, so I spent the afternoon today figuring it out.
As suspected there is a "snap" ring retainer inside the two parts that is made of an Hexagonal wire ring sitting in a recess.

By feeding in feeler gauges from the rear of the vent, I managed to compress the wire snap ring and get the vents apart ready for re-chroming.

Picture here:



I hope this may help others who wish to restore their vents.

Regards
Darren

 

Darren though there are many great technical folks here the Tom Yang site is mostly about how to do just the sort of thing you were asking. I get the feeling at times people may take a break from the -is this a bubble- discussions or -who has the most original P4-. Best Y.

 

Darren,

This is an amazing and admirable undertaking but how do you register it? Is it a "home built hot rod"? Is it legally a Ferrari anymore? Here in Cali we have registration for "specially constructed vehicles" but they're registered as just that, not what the car may replicate or resemble. Can you use the number off the motor, when you source one?
Me, I'd kinda want to figure this out before I spent to much more time and wampum.

Having said that. Best of luck fellow traveler.

 

Darren
I never thought of this and I fear it will be a huge problem in the UK........Am I right in thinking you have a new Chassis and as yet no engine ? Even if you had the riveted on chassis plate the DVLA will not accept this alone. The MC records wont help either. How did you discover the chassis number.What eveidence do you have ? paul

 

Hi Paul,

From earlier in the thread:

"Kerry at the 330 register has identified my shell from the stamped number on the bonnet!!!

Chassis 6727 (http://www.330gt.com/Detail/6727.html)"

Kerry's site seems to have a good line of ownership on the car.
It was apparently stripped by Terry Hoyle Racing Engineers Ltd for a "re-body", sold on to GTO and the purchased at auction.

 

Do you know when this was done, ie. recently or many years ago?

Pete

 

Then without doubt the GTO recreation will carry the identity of this car which will show on the DVLA's UK database....As is usually the case these cars are stripped of all identity, chassis, engine, and steering components....With GTE's the instruments disappear also...... A number stamped on a removable item such as the bonnet will hold no weight......I wish I could think of an answer to this problem as Darrens efforts to preserve/ rebuild this 330 deserve better.

 

Hi Pete,

This was done last Fall and the recreation is under construction.

When cut out it was discovered that the original chassis was badly bent at the rear and disguarded.

When 6727 was sold to Hoyle it had a crate engine fitted in the 80's by a previous owner. The original engine froze and pushed a hole in the block. The original block was disguarded in the 80's. I have some photographs showing this work on the car.

I have the original chassis outriggers, front end of the chassis, tops of the suspension mounts and parts of the original rear of the chassis still attached to the shell. These have been retained and the main tube/rails replaced and joined back onto these parts.

Basically this is what needed to be done to rectify the original twist damage from a previous accident. This was why the car exchanged hands 5 times before Hoyle cut out the identity; each owner must have unearthed the truth on the twisted chassis or got cold feet when quoted to repair it. It changed hands 5 times in 18 months!

I intend to continue the restoration as the car is back on 4 wheels now and I am intent on returning it to the road. It is a 330GT 2+2 RHD series 1..... not some 330LM wannabie!

 

.........................and the fewer left on the road bodes extremely well for those of us who have/think the same.Not that any of us have that in mind.
An Aussie delivered colourchanged car sold privately for $175K Aussie,I believe that would be fairly close to a record .

 

Amazing, just amazing that this still happens!

Pity you could not get hold of the original chassis and straighten it.
Pete