F1 stuck in gear?

I have experienced a similar issue & found it was related to the F1 pump motor. Can you tell me if the pump is still functioning by sound? If it is not then check the F1 pump relay 1st (behind passenger seat) - then pump motor.

Keep n mind that if the pump motor has frozen then you may have a fatigued relay. Replacing them as a set is recommended.

 

The car I had serviced for this would also fail while on a highway cruise. But keep in mind that the pump will prime when the F1 pressure falls below a prescribed level. That can include a drive down the highway.

So you hear it prime with the door when you start your drive, but once it fails does it still prime? I am thinking once it heats up the failure appears. So once the F1 light is on I would bet the pump motor is not priming.

Now it could be other things, but this symptom does mimic a failure I have personally seen & repaired with a new motor & a relay.

 

When it happened to me, it was a loose battery terminal, went over a bump and no power and stuck in gear. I got out and poked around the back of the car and nothing obviously loose, my wife got out of the car from the passenger and when she did she pushed with her foot on the battery cover part, car went been, I was able to put it in neutral and start the car. 1/2 mile later same thing but that was enough to get me home and check the battery, no issues in last year and half. Do you still have battery power ?

I have 60k miles on my F1 pump, so 26K should be nothing.

 

what car is this? 360 or F430?

Similar thing happened to me in F430, it was the e-diff light tho I saw, and it turned out to be a ruptured hose.

 

I hope this gets resolved for you soon and its a simple fix.

 

I would suspect F1 pump failure. Need an SD2 tobfind out.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4

 

If the pump is priming longer than usual (more than 7 seconds or so), it means the relay contacts are closed longer than they should be or that there is not enough fluid in the lines to fully pressurize the system.

You can diagnose the issue relatively easy but it will most likely come down to the pump, motor, or relay. For the amount of miles the car has, the best solution would be to change these components and flush the hydraulic fluid. I bet this will solve your problem...

Note: If you swap the relay, make sure you get the latest Tyco relay (-X152).

 

You would get the low pressure red warning if you tried to select gear with insufficient pressure in the system. The description of a failing pump in the post above is correct, although a loose bleed screw on the actuator or leak somewhere would also cause it..

 

Yes, that's correct. However, if it is below a certain level (in terms of PSI), the light will stay lit indicating a failure. (The flashing light will also appear if your 30A fuse or relay is toast.)

For me, a bad relay caused the pump motor to overheat, blowing the 30A fuse and giving me the flashing F1 light. Before I could realize it was the relay, I replaced the fuse and the light went away. I started driving along but noticed the slight whining noise of the pump, just as you stated. 3 miles later, the fuse was blown again. This time the F1 light stayed on. I ended up changing the pump and motor, bought a new relay, and the problem was gone.

In any case, you stated that the fluid level was fine so there does not appear to be any leaks. Unless you detect a leak along the lines or fittings, the pressure issue is most likely caused by the pump.

 

The pump/F1 stuff is on the right side of the car... so that doesn't sound right.

 

+1;

Check in this order. The first two are dirt cheap, #3 not too expensive, read on FChat about Yuris upgrades, visually check for leaks, but this would be quite obvious in this failure state, and worst case is the actuator needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Search for rebuildingt he assembly, thread was rehashed days ago. Rebuild co in middle east somewhere, but they do the Ferrari, Maser, Fiat assm rebuilds on the cheap (10-20% of new).

1. Relay
2. Fuse
3. Pump
4. Leaks
5. Actuator assembly; likely seals

 

What is the difference between the relay and the fuse ? where is the fuse and where is the relay ? I bought what I thought was a replacement fuse that goes behind the passenger (passenger in the US anyway) seat, so what/where is the relay ?

My F1 but my pump comes on for a very long time when I open the door and I often hear it while driving around town, also I often see my F1 light flash when downshifting fast. I had my dealer check it out with the SD2 and they said nothing is wrong. But I think I would like to replace both the relay and the fuse and keep the old ones in the trunk as spares.

 

Relay is behind passenger's seat. Make sure it is the 5-prong relay (typically grey Tyco relay).

Fuse is 30A, behind driver's seat. The fuse only acts to protect the circuit in case of overcurrent. If the system draws more than 30A and the fuse blows, then your problem is not the fuse, it's the pump motor which draws that current...

 

Another possibility not mentioned so far is a failed clutch position sensor. This usually happens exactly as described above (i.e., everything apparently working but sudden total shutdown of the F1 system). It will sometimes come back to life after cooling down but will die again as soon as it gets hot.

Definitely get to an experienced tech ASAP and get it on an SDX computer for full diagnosis.

 

I'm having a strange sound shifting, it's like with each gear change there is a clicking sound. Metal on metal. Comes from the center console area... near my right hand. Hope there isn't a problem because it sounds great and in its quirky way reminds me what I'm driving



(Sry, couldn't resist since a lot of F1 posts recently)

 

Check the F1 paddles...I suspect they might have fallen off lol

 

I mostly agree. I have had many "warm" fuses where there was a voltage drop across the fuse causing havoc with whatever was expecting full voltage or current. I always just change the fuse and inspect the contacts. I also thermo check the fuse under load (sometimes just with my finger), but a non-contact thermo works fine as does a fancy thermal imager.