Removal of rear deck pieces for re-upholstery.

Hi Chris, I performed this task on my 328 a while back and I assume it is the same procedure as on the 308 QV. The shield does indeed need to be removed and this is performed by removing the nuts on the threaded studs which hold the fuel line bracket in place. Once the aluminum shield is removed you can access the fastener on the threaded post which is attached to the central trim piece. Even with the shield removed it's a bit of a challenge to get to the nut. Others, I included, ended up replacing the standard nut with a wing nut to make reinstallation easier. Hope this helps.

 

As Ettore stated, the shield needs to come off. It's held in place with three nuts that also hold the fuel lines in place.

The left and right shelf pieces are each held in place with a vertical threaded rod that I think can be accessed without removing the shield.

To access the vertical rods, just reach back deep and feel around the underside of the shelf and you should run into the threaded rod and nut that is holding it in place. One on the left, one on the right, basically located in the middle of the shelf.

Below is a picture of the right shelf. Notice the location of the threaded rod and the hole for the seat belt bolt for reference.

-F
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

On a parallel topic, is there a good sources for the OEM (or close to OEM) material? No, I haven't done a search yet...

 

yes

 

I used this and it can be seen in my car towards the end around page 26-28 I think of my thread Crowndog's Adventure

Found it here:



Search Products - Denver Fabrics

Taupe/Beige Wool Coating - Discount Fabrics


DF#KKK988

Taupe & Beige
Wool Coating Fabric
Imported From Italy
Suitable for Jackets, Coats & Apparel
100% Wool
59" Wide
Hand Wash Cold or
Dry Clean

$14.00peryard

 

That's it! I looked everywhere and there is no OEM available anywhere. Some that claimed to have it at unreal prices wouldn't send me a swatch to confirm. After looking at sites all over I stumbled on this stuff and it's wool like the original. The best part was the price.

 

World Upholstery in California carries a lot of the OEM materials. Call and they can send sample swatches

World Upholstery & Trim (800) 222-9577 or our local number (805) 921-0100, Monday to Friday, 8 am to 5 pm PST.

World Upholstery & Trim, American Manufacturer of Car/Auto Upholstery, Carpet, Convertible Tops, Car Seats, Headliners & Door Panel Parts for Classic European Cars like Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Jaguar, Fiat, Ferrari and Alfa Romeo

 

Got it. I think that's a 'B' vs. 'S' thing. Re-Originals had the OEM material at one time.

-F

 

i've been wanting to do this for years but the thought of pushing the back windows out horrifies me.

 

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/lonnie7777/8534314809/
Not the best way to do it . Push on the in side and work the gasket from the outside. Do not remove the vent louver hinge use a stubby screwdriver and remove the phillips screws if you plan to take it off.

 

I've done it on a 328 GTB. In general, the 308 GTS is similar. Just slightly different steps. One of the keys is to use plastic body shop tools when prying out the window frame and trim.

The GTB has rivets holding the window frame in place whereas I think the GTS has screws. Or maybe it uses rivets too, just not in the same location; not sure.

Also, if you do have to drill out any rivets, be sure to protect your glass from a errant drill bit by covering it with a towel and tape.

-F
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

thanks for the pics.
they're starting to remove some of the mystery.

 

Just to be sure, you are saying leave the hinge attached to the car, removed the screws on the louver side...

 

Great thread and very timely.

I am pulling the interior out of my 84 GTS QV this weekend in prep for a full on interior restoration. I am going to need to remove that rear deck and mess with the rear windows to do all the headliner stuff. While I am in there this weekend I'll take a good close look at the rear glass and then come back here for another peek before trying anything dangerous.

Thanks again for starting this.

Paul

 

Right. If you remove the hinges it is difficult to reinstall, they are spring loaded. Also be careful with the rear glass heater wires when removeing the panels.

 

+1 had to get a helper to hold down the hinge while I reattached one, it was a pain. The spring has to be almost fully compressed while trying to get the bolts into a very awkward space. Would only disconnect the body side of them if you have a very compelling reason to do so.

You can slightly loosen the body side to fine-adjust the hinge position though if something isn't lining up right... my driver side had walked out a bit from opening and closing for refueling.

 

I was pulling the interior today. Started with the seats which came out just fine. Then I was removing the seat rails from the bottom of the seats and found that the passenger rear inside [console side] mounting bolt has a stripped head. Someone has tried to remove that rail in the past and did a bang-up job of stripping the allen headed bolt. The damn thing is tucked down in the rail and is round headed to boot so it is very hard to get anything on. Time to head out to the tool store and see what I can find to extract this damn thing........and of course to find a replacement bolt.

Sigh..........

 

Hey Guys, when you unbolt the fuel lines from the large heat shield between the engine and cabin are you able to lift that shield out of the car if need be? Would you have to remove the decklid to do so? I need to paint or strip and polish that shield. Saw you guys touched on the topic of un bolting it so thought I'd ask.