Gang, I ordered my PIN number and new FOB's from the factory (key also). The key is perfect but the PIN code does not work. The dealer is checking again with the Factory to see if they gave me the correct PIN. While I have no way to know for sure, I'm 99% sure my ECU has never been changed. The prior owner did not (and he had the car since 2000 - second owner of a 98). It's possible I'm just not doing the procedure correct. Has anyone done this (enter the PIN with the key)? I want to verifiy that I'm doing it correctly... Thanks.
Dave, if you have any old Ferrari dealer reciepts, the code may be on that reciept. Some did put it on there incase of trouble. Take a look.
Great Idea Dave! I've got every piece of paper the car came with including the front cover for the PIN BUT not the actual page that has the PIN. (Of course I have the one I just bought). Tony at Algar told me to look on the actual ECU - he said some tech's right the number on it in marker but no dice. I'll look thru all of my papers - I've even got the original bill of sale.
Hi Terry, I downloaded that from FL even before I bought my car since I though "this will come in handy some day" When I use the key to enter the PIN, I go from position 0-2-0 as a single number cycle. If seems a bit strange since the dash lights power up / off. I was thinking of trying again going from 1-2-1 instead. I was hoping someone who chime in who's done this before - have you done so? Is 0-2-0 correct?
The immobilizer sequence did not work for me either. I have my original code sheet although the numbers have faded a but since 1998 and therefore not 100% decipherable. I hope like hell I never need it. I will try to go back to the original dealer (Algar) again sometime soon to try and validate the numbers. Good luck and let us know of any success!
Dave, when I programed my new remotes I used 0-2-0 on the ignition switch. My alarm ECU was changed early in the cars life and the PIN in the original paper work didn't work. I had to order the new code through dealer parts. $$$$
Dave- Never mind Ferrari's markings on the ignition switch. The cycle is off-on-off in less than two seconds for each number and then a five second pause (2-20 seconds works) between each number. I have done it and I wrote the document I attached and that you pulled from FL. The checklist should lead you right through the process. I wrote it with input from Brian Crall and others after reprogramming my alarm ECU to accept a new set of fobs Boardwalk sent me. Doing the engine start sequence is the first part of the reprogramming sequence. First I tried starting the engine and it worked on the first try. Then I reprogrammed the alarm ECU and that worked on the 2nd try. You just have to be methodical.
Terry, well what do you mean off-on-off? as I said, I went from 0-2-0. I plan to try 1-2-1, please explain what you mean becuase the ignition has 4 positions. Thanks!!
Dave- Off means key in the ignition, but not turned on. Ferrari calls it stop or 0. On means with the ignition on, like it says in the owners manual, and Ferrari also calls it II. Trying any other combination is a waste of time. Try following the checklist after reviewing it first. Most people take too long on the off-on-off cycle for each digit of the number you are entering. It needs to be done just about as fast as you can do it. Talk out loud to yourself. It helps.
Thanks Terry - I'm 100% positive I've done it correctly, but I'll try again this weekend. PS, I did count out loud.
Did not see this post so accidently posted same thing today. Just to clarify 0 is key in ignition but you could pull it out. Is that right?
Thanks Terry will have to try it again. Maybe I was pausing to long for the digits. I did get the red remote and the two black ones programmed after about an hour. Tried to do it again though and it never worked. Gave up after about 3 hours of off and on testing. Figured I was probably going to wear the ignition out before I figured what I was doing wrong.
Grant- Once the new PIN is programmed into the alarm ECU, the LED will never speed up its flashing again because it already has that PIN. Engine start should be no sweat, though, if you got the hard part done. The hard part is programming the alarm ECU with the new set of fobs after you essentially went through the engine start procedure to get there.
Maybe I don't understand you Terry.... Currently, with the FOB that came with my car, I put the key in, turn to position 2 and wait for the F1 pump to build pressure. At that point, I press and hold the button on the FOB for a few seconds and the light flashes very fast. At that point, IIRC, the light goes on solid and then I proceed to start the car.
Dave I think Terry was describing once I got the new pin into the alarm ecu. Thanks terry. I did get everything working. What I was trying to do after was just start the car by using the ignition to put the pin in. I wanted to know how to do it in case on a trip my fob quit working and my spare fobs were at home. This is what I will be trying to do when I get back to California.
Dave- Lock your car with the remote every time you get out, even to get gas. Then you will have to use your remote to get in and you will have 2 minutes (120 seconds) to start her before the immobilizer rearms. Easier than fiddling with the pushbutton while it is hanging from the ignition.
Terry, I have no issue pressing the button before start. Since I have an F1, I need to wait for the system to pressurise anyway
Dave- As soon as you open the door, the system is pressurizing and it only takes a few seconds. By the time the check ok lamp illuminates, she is ready to go.
Terry, I think is does not start until the key is in the ignition and in position 2. Also I don't want to lock my car all the time. It's no issue pressing the button before start (for me)
Dave- Unless the F355 is different from all the other F1 cars, it pressurizes as soon as you open the door. You should be able to hear it. The system needs to be pressurized so you can put it into neutral for start. There are some differences in the F355 vs later F1 cars. If you do not put your foot on the brake for 4 seconds when stopped and in gear, the system will select neutral for you. It is 90 seconds for later cars.
I don't think so Terry. I'll check. I think it does not start until the key is put to position 2. If it started when door opened, that would be annoying since ever time I open the door to put the trunk lid or clean the inside the system would be pressurizing.
Just tested Terry: Car unlocked, open door, no pressure of the pump. I fogot, so I'll try later locking car first, perhaps the unlock with fob will start pump.
Terry, I just tested with the car locked, unlocked with FOB and opened door. Pump does not start until key is in ignition on position 2. Personally, this makes perfect sense and I would not want it any other way. Why would I want the pump to pressurize when I'm entering the car to get my sunglasses?