another 355 alternator thread...

Geez Mike, I thought someone would have popped up by now. Ernie, where are you?

Henry

 

Here is the rectifier I was thinking of trying next time I need one. I haven't actually tried it yet to confirm that it works.

# INR734P - Bridge Rectifier For Nippondenso 120-136A Alternators. Used On: 2001-88 Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth

The website has a phone number, so maybe you could call them and find out for sure if it would work.

- Tom

 

Use remote internals like on a limo, police car or severe duty vehicle. They do wonders for longevity when the alt is in a hot spot

 

As for the part numbers I posted them in my rebuild thread. I suggest using the USI regulator when rebuilding.

If you want to buy an upgraded alternator these guys have them for sale. RaceProven.com: Alternators: Racing

 

Man oh man! LOL I haven't posted on here on quite some years. I love my F355 Spider but have decided to sell. I took a potential buyer on a joy ride just yesterday & the alternator picked the perfect time to give me issue! Not soon after I flipped my headlights on did my airbag light come on, then my Check engine light 1-4, then 5-8, then all my lights on the dash flashed on. The car started to sputter & hiccup & start to slow down. I tried to cut my headlights off but only one headlight went down. I safely made it to a side street. HAHAHA all I could do is laugh. It took AAA over 2 hours to come pick me up. I was praying it was possibly the battery dyeing...It wasn't, I pulled it out & had it checked today. About an hour ago drove it over to a shop where I got a voltage reading of 11.6 which mean't something has failed with my charging system. I was told it was either a blown fuse or possibly my alternator. So here I am trying to also learn any new part#'s or places that supply alternator rebuild pieces.

 

Man that really sucks! Any sellers fear. You baby your car, wash, clean and polish often. You never drive her in the rain and do all the required maintenance, update to the silicone hoses, gold connector kit etc. Spared no expense and decided to sell without reservation that the next guy will be getting the perfect car...You are the HERO!!....And the minute you consider selling the ole gal off, take someone on a prepurchase test drive, she screws the deal up by acting poorly. It ain't right!

 

Exactly!!! The potential buyer is still interested but Man o man. The crazy thing is as soon as I purchased it I took the alternator out & had it rebuilt out of fear! It has never given me any type of warning before it pooped out! I'm gonna try to replace parts of the alternator while it's still in the car. I'm still having nightmares from the first time I pulled it out! LOL I already have it jacked up, pulled the panels & took the lower alternator bracket out & took off the red wire. But I'm gonna look through old threads & see if I can order the parts to replace while still in the car this time. When it gave me issue you could smell a electrical type burning smell.

 

I meant took out the lower alternator bolt out not bracket.

 

MOBILETRON

 

Forget about the Regitar regulator.

Get the USI regulator,
Part number:
71-30003/SCP

http://www.usi.com.tw/pdf/car/Denso_Regulator.pdf

Any alternator rebuild shop should be able to order it for you. BE SURE to use the cross reference car when telling them what car it's for, else you get popped with the Ferrari tax.

 

Interesting that this thread popped up. I need to rebuild the alternator on a 355 Spider. Voltage is reading 11.9V even when engine is on and high revs.

 

WOOOHOOOO Thank the Lord. Turns out it was actually only the wire connected to the alternator that most likely due to the heat separated from the wiring portion with the green plastic connector that clamps into the alternator. So I went to a local Alternator repair shop & purchased the plastic connector with the 3 wires for $10. Took it to a shop where they charged me $60 to repair & replace the connector end. They also checked the voltage & it was charging with a V reading of 14.4.

 

Thanks for the update, and I'm glad to hear it's all better now.

 

Wish mine was that simple a fix...

 

I've had the same green plug fail 2 times now, about 2 years apart. These cars run hot!

 

Looks like I'm in the same boat. Need to get it up in the air to look at it.

 

So the USI regulator but what about the rectifier? Which one?

 

I talked to Raceproven today. They have a replacement parts for our alternators that have a better heat sink and are better sealed. They said they will last longer but will eventually fail do to heat. They have a rear cover that accommodates a 1.5 inch hose to channel heat to the back of the alternator. They said that would end the parts failures. He has done several Ferraris. Is there room for a hose to the rear of the alternator?

 

Hose to channel the heat?

 

Hose to bring fresh air to the back of the alternator and let it flow through the alternator.

 

I'm currently using the Regitar RN-02 rectifier, with the smaller bolt. However we figured out that the RN-10 has the correct 8mm bolt size.