Quattroporte III catch-all thread | Page 22 | FerrariChat

Quattroporte III catch-all thread

Discussion in 'Maserati' started by Quattroporte3, Jun 27, 2011.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. qp400i

    qp400i Karting

    Jun 17, 2011
    91
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Igino
    Those grills are awkward and I can only hope they are glued-on plastic items of poor taste that can be easily removed without leaving a hole. Functionally they would be redundant since the engine bay already has vents to the front wheel arches. Perhaps the owner was seduced by the fake items of the qpV.
    I like the colour too.
     
  2. Quattroporte3

    Quattroporte3 Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2010
    1,060
    The grilles are horrid. Looks more like something suited to a "TC by Maserati" than a QP3. They don't appear to be functional, and if they are they're not at all suited to the body style, proportion or look.

    I agree the color is very, very nice. I haven't seen this color before, but really like it a lot on this car.
     
  3. Quattroporte3

    Quattroporte3 Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2010
    1,060
    #528 Quattroporte3, Aug 29, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Random question that I don't expect anyone here can help with, but let me throw it out there.

    Hit a snag today with the bare metal respray. Have converted the front end to the EU lights, which IMHO looks lots better. Was hoping the bumper would be a simple adjustment, but it doesn't seem to be. According to the parts manual, the only differences between the EU/US bumper systems are:

    1. US versions have longer "posts" from the body to the (main) bumper. The US bumper sticks out further from the car.
    2. US versions have a square block of rubber that acts as a shock absorber on the body side, behind the bumper mounting post.
    3. US versions have a different center section of the bumper (i.e. main part covering front & back of car). It's unclear to me what the differences are, if it's in the mounting system, or degree of wrap around before meeting the "accordion" section, or something else. The only difference I know of for sure, is that the US bumpers have a rubber "lip" on the body side, probably to cover the added gap resulting from mounting further from the body.

    All of the other parts for the bumpers, if the service manual is correct, are identical between EU/US models. The side bumperettes are identical for both markets, and bolt directly to the brackets on the inside of the body at each quarter panel. The accordions screw onto the bumperettes. The front and rear main bumper sections bolt onto the two posts sticking out from the body (and in the US version have a rubber shock absorber at the inside end), and the corners slide into the accordion to hide the transition. The accordions too are identical between markets.

    The shop says that the mounting holes are 25mm offset forward on my car compared to the EU model. Oops.

    Does anyone know for sure if the actual bumperette mounting points are the same on the wings between markets? Judging from how Maserati did most everything else around this time, I can't imagine they actually bothered with making completely separate quarter panels front and rear for the EU/US market, when they could simply move the bumper further out and add a shockmount for the US market, leaving the rest (and the body, most importantly) the same for all markets. That's the whole reason they used the "accordion" side pieces, to cover the transition and allow room enough for both bumpers to fit, depending on market. Or so I had thought.

    Anyone?
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  4. Quattroporte3

    Quattroporte3 Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2010
    1,060
    #529 Quattroporte3, Aug 30, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    To answer my own post:

    The bumper dimensions are identical between US/EU versions.

    According to Mr. Collina, "In the USA version there were “energy absorbers” assembled due to the USA homologation rules at that time.
    So I can suppose that the assembly position of the bumper (USA vs. Europe) was different in order to have the possibility to have the energy absorbers working."

    The difference is that not only do the US models have the rubber energy absorbers, they have longer mounting posts. More importantly, the side brackets (hidden behind the fender on the inside of the metal behind the holes) are placed further forward by the same amount that the mounting posts protrude, approximately 1" (25mm).

    I.e. the US and EU fender/wings are different - the stampings place the holes and brackets 1" (25mm) different. Combined with the bumper posts, which also differ by 1", the entire assembly (side bumpers + main bumper) moves forward/backward accordingly, depending on the market the car is intended for sale.

    The net result of this is that I am now facing my own "bumper conversion" dilemma. Not nearly as major a change as with a Bora, Merak or Ghibli, but we've done the lights and grille, leaving the bumpers now would leave the car in an in-between state. Maybe it's not such a big deal, since both EU/US models have the same bumpers, just slightly different placement, with the EU bumpers more integrated into the body, while the US ones stick out much further at each end of the car.

    The worst part of all of this is that we discovered this *after* the paint was on the car. As careful as we've been to measure and test fit everything else while the car was in the bare metal, it seemed that simply cutting down the two bumper mounting posts would be enough to move the whole thing back the right amount. Now we know that's not the case.

    Suggestions? Put it back to US spec (leaving the lights/bezels EU spec) and be done with it, or take the time to properly convert the bumpers to EU spec while we're at it. That would mean stripping all that brand new paint at each corner and redoing a lot of work...

    US front bumper on top, EU on bottom. Sorry I couldn't find two pics at the same angle, but you get the idea.

    (thanks to William Abrahams for the picture of the EU front end)
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  5. Thestash

    Thestash Karting

    May 8, 2011
    205
    Wappingers Falls, NY
    Full Name:
    Tony Pistachio
    #530 Thestash, Aug 30, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I vote for leaving cars as original as possible.
    Now I have a question.
    Why is it that my EU version has side blinkers and no reflector in the side bumpers?
    Has it been modified at some point?
    Tony
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  6. MrMark

    MrMark Karting

    Apr 3, 2013
    139
    Louisiana, USA
    #531 MrMark, Aug 30, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I think there are other cars like yours. I have this photo of a car in Europe. I'm curious to know why some cars have this arrangement of lights.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  7. William Abraham

    William Abraham Formula Junior

    Nov 21, 2010
    830
    London, UK
    Full Name:
    William Abraham
    #532 William Abraham, Aug 30, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hi Definitely change to the Euro bumper set up - that is how the cars were meant to be and having gone this far.... I found the same thing for the rear. I had to put the spare bumper (US) on the rear of the car as the shop (not ALSA) lost the original Euro bumper so we had to put on the US rear on the Euro rear. I do think the US marker lights are different from the Euro lights also so the Euro side bumper pieces are different. I will try to post some pictures but this is in my thread also if you look through it. I put a few up and you can see the difference on the rear. Not an elegant fix perhaps.
    The front pictures show the difference between the Euro and US lights but you can also see these very clearly on the MIE website.
    There were some early versions of the QPIII with red wires, no air trumpets etc that were discussed on this thread. I suspect that the odd placement of lights on the fender side must be part of these variations.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  8. MrMark

    MrMark Karting

    Apr 3, 2013
    139
    Louisiana, USA
    I concur that the euro bumper and lights best represents the original designer's intent for the car. Undoing USA-mandated bumpers seems to be an accepted practice on Boras, Meraks, and Khamsin, so I think there is a precedent there for what you are doing with your QP3. With regards to your current bumper fitment dilemma, I think you could go the Ma$$erati route and redo the holes one inch away from present locations, or you could perhaps resolve this by trimming down the plastic accordion piece down to make up the difference between the front and side bumpers. Cut the offending distance out of the accordions, glue them back together and paint matt black. Just a thought. Concours judges can recoil in horror as needed.
     
  9. Quattroporte3

    Quattroporte3 Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2010
    1,060
    Does anyone know conclusively what the differences are between the US spec (e.g. smogged) 4.9l V8 and the Euro version?

    I've been considering the idea of ripping out the smog stuff while my car is in the shop, and wondered if there's anything else that's different, or that might make such an undertaking risky/cost-prohibitive.

    I thought I had read that the cams were different in the service manual, but looking at it now I can't see any difference. Any other things to consider?
     
  10. Mexico074

    Mexico074 Formula 3

    Aug 14, 2008
    1,227
    Harriman, TN USA
    Full Name:
    Michael Demyanovich
    Hello Quattroporte3... I have removed the smog stuff from my '82.. Besides the airpump,
    the diverter valve, and hoses, the air injection manifolds on the exhaust manifolds, along
    with the exhaust injection pipes will need to be sealed.. There may be some timing issues
    that will need to be resolved once the car is operational again..

    Hope this helps..

    Mike
     
  11. Quattroporte3

    Quattroporte3 Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2010
    1,060
    Thanks Mike,

    it does indeed help. The cams are identical on all models, appear to be the same even as the ones on the Ghibli, Khamisin and other 4.9l V8 engines. The distributor advance/ignition timing is slightly different, but I haven't checked through everything yet and am still unsure if the cam timing needs to be adjusted as well. There's a PDF on Ivan's site that outlines the mod for Ghibli/Bora V8s which shows different cam timing, but the distributor values are different than those of the QP3.


    I may just leave it for now, as I need the car running and working for when I pick it up for the drive back.

    Thanks for the tips. Does anyone else have any experience de-smogging a 4.9l V8?


     
  12. Thestash

    Thestash Karting

    May 8, 2011
    205
    Wappingers Falls, NY
    Full Name:
    Tony Pistachio
    Hi,
    It looks like the starter gear hits the flywheel preventing the solenoid from pushing the small gear all the way out to complete the circuit and get the starter motor turning.
    I actually filmed it.
    http://ajptech.com/starter/

    The starter and solenoid have been recently rebuilt. It works fine on the bench and then again in the car, but after a while it does this again.
    This is a 1979 Euro version 5 speed.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks,
    Tony
     
  13. Falta125

    Falta125 Karting

    Mar 11, 2012
    112
    I removed all smog devices from my 85 , i also switched out the US intake manifold , carbs and aircleaner for the euro setup, best move you can make, make's carb work a breeze. I'm also considering doing a propane conversion, there's a manufacturer in Poland that make's a propane carburator that fits on the intake hoses for the air cleaner, makes it easy to do a dual fuel setup. Living in the desert the gas in the idle circuit jets dry's out and plugs the jets in about a week so you have to pull those jets often. The propane setup would solve that problem and i think improve mileage, i've done a number of duel fuel conversions on pick-up trucks and had great results. The tank is the engineering challenge, i think i'll put it were the gas tanks sits and then make dual fuel tanks, one on the left and one on the right. I found no issues with removing all smog related device's but i'm not a fan of air pollution so the propane conversion is the best solution for dependablity, fuel consumption,and air pollution to name just a few.
     
  14. qp400i

    qp400i Karting

    Jun 17, 2011
    91
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Igino
  15. Quattroporte3

    Quattroporte3 Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2010
    1,060
    €850 seems like a pretty decent price. I don't think you could get the carbs alone for that.

    Thanks for the tips on the de-smogging conversion. I'm going to wait a bit with it for now, but plan on rebuilding the carbs this winter.

    Tony - you caught the starter solenoid red handed! Great job. This has been affecting me too more and more recently, to the effect that now I don't dare turn the engine off on drives, as I never know if I'll get it started again. Sometimes it works fine, more often than not it doesn't.

    I've been having several issues with the starter lately. First is nothing - no click, no noise, no spinning gear or clicking solenoid. Like the battery is flat, but it isn't, and shows 13.6v. I have noted that on occasion the voltmeter in the dashboard shows a low reading, and on other occasions (when it starts) is close to 12v, as it should be. Therefore, I've been wondering if there might be something causing a short or excess current draw the times I don't get any response from the ignition whatsoever. It seems to be worse when the engine is hot, and usually (but not always) starts when cold, or at least will make a "clicking" sound or try to turn over. One person suggested that the starter has a "flat" spot, where it simply won't do anything when the juice is applied. The second problem is the "click" one, where the solenoid moves but hits the ring gear, and instead of sliding past to engage the gears, stops.

    Since both starters have been rebuilt with Chrysler OEM parts, and both still give problems, I've been thinking of replacing the entire starter with one of these:

    Mopar Mini Torque Starter

    RobbMc Performance Products - Mopar Starter

    Not sure if it will fit/work with Maserati's upside down and backwards mounting, but I do plan on checking. Has anyone else tried one of these, or one of the similar Japanese equivalent replacements?

    Alternately, has anyone found a reliable way to keep the stock one working? Mine worked fine the first year I had the car, until the car sat for 3 months while I rebuild the transmission. Then it was click click click. Even after having both rebuilt, and swapped once, they seem really unreliable. 30 years old or not, when I turn the key I expect the starter to turn the engine over! If there are other problems that prevent it from starting, I'll deal with them. But it needs to turn over to begin with...

    It seems to be an electrical issue more than anything, although I haven't been under the car to measure while the key is turned. I will certainly try to do that though.
     
  16. Quattroporte3

    Quattroporte3 Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2010
    1,060
    Making progress on the blog, comments welcomed: quattroporte3.wordpress.com

    I've also received a suggestion to check all the wiring and switches relating to the starter before replacing it with a Denso type.

    "However, before you spend money on a better starter, you should check to make sure the problem is actually with the starters. Often, when the starter just clicks (or does nothing at all, it is because the starter is getting insufficient power via the small wire that feeds the solenoid. The next time the starter just clicks, or does nothing at all, try using a remote starter switch to connect the small terminal on the starter directly to the positive post on the battery.

    If the starter works when using the remote starter switch, it means that there is not enough power to the small terminal on the starter when you turn the key. To fix the problem, you need to either renew all the wiring and switches related to the starter (starter/key switch, neutral safety switch or clutch switch, all wiring connections from fuse panel to starter switch, etc) or add a Mopar style starter relay if your car doesn't have one."

    Ring any bells? Or is everyone else's starter working perfectly, 30 years on?
     
  17. Thestash

    Thestash Karting

    May 8, 2011
    205
    Wappingers Falls, NY
    Full Name:
    Tony Pistachio
    It turns out - in my case - the starter gear was not hitting the flywheel after all. Here's a write-up I created for MIE for the VCM Magazine:

    QPIII 5 Speed Starter troubleshoot

    One evening while attempting to start my car I got the dreaded "Click" while turning the key. It's a loud metal to metal sounding click coming from the starter itself. I've got a fairly new battery with clean, tight terminals. The starter was a fairly recent rebuild also.

    To help troubleshoot I first made sure my battery had a full charge. Then I rigged up a set of "Hot wires" to connect to each other while under the car that applied 12 volts to the small Solenoid wire at the starter. This allowed me to observe the pinion gear meshing with the flywheel. I can see the starter's pinion gear move out slightly but not quite all the way. I looked like the loud click was the pinion gear not messing properly and hitting the flywheel. Very hard to tell from the only available viewing angle I had.

    As a hunch I then connected a voltmeter to the large wire at the starter where it read 12 volts. It has to read 12 volts, its directly connected to the battery. I engaged the starter again via the "hot wire" and got the usual "click" however this time I see that my 12 volts dropped to 0! My battery? I thought. Its new, all connections are clean, tight and I had it charging all night.

    So I turned on the headlights and tried. Again, Click and 12 dropped to 0 at the starter but headlights remained on and didn't dim at all so the only voltage drop was at the starter. To me, that indicates the large wire from the battery to the starter. What can be wrong with that? It's two feet long and like 1 gauge!

    I go back to the battery and give that large starter wire a tug and it pulls right out of the clean tight terminal connector!!!! I pulled back the rubber boot on the connector and there's an Allen key that bears down on the wire. I took it apart, cleaned it all up, tightened the Allen nut onto the wire and vroom - the engine started!

    I guess the starter actually begins turning prior to the pinion gear completely meshing with the flywheel which seems to me like it would grind but I guess not. It probably turns it's way into the flywheel preventing tooth to tooth collision.
    Tony
     
  18. Quattroporte3

    Quattroporte3 Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2010
    1,060
    Pure gold Tony,

    thanks for sharing. I'll hook up a hotwire switch to check, but before that will measure for continuity from end to end on the thick starter wire to make sure it can actually carry current. Your description sounds an awful lot like what I've been experiencing.

    Cheers!
     
  19. Thestash

    Thestash Karting

    May 8, 2011
    205
    Wappingers Falls, NY
    Full Name:
    Tony Pistachio
    Just measuring the voltage or continuity isn't enough. You must look for a drop in voltage under load. But don't even bother. Just give that wire a tug to be sure its firmly seated in the connector. In my car the connector is not a crimp type so its serviceable.

    Also, just so you know I still occasionally get the turn the key and nothing happens syndrome. No loud click at the starter only the faint clicks of the small relays in the second fuse compartment.
    I haven't gotten to the bottom of that yet because its so inconsistent. A good work-around is to install a male to female plug in the small starter wire somewhere near the positive terminal of the battery. My car already had a set there near the ignition resistors. In an emergency you can then temporarily unplug them allowing you to touch the small wire going to the starter solenoid directly to the battery and the engine always cranks. Just make sure you turn the ignition on first and the car is in neutral! The throttle linkage is conveniently located close by to give her gas if needed.

    Now I'm in the middle of rebuilding the carbs. Never a dull moment!
    Tony
     
  20. Mexico074

    Mexico074 Formula 3

    Aug 14, 2008
    1,227
    Harriman, TN USA
    Full Name:
    Michael Demyanovich
    Hello Quattroporte3 / Tony...

    I just read QP3's entire blog... Excellent work.. I'm hoping I can live up to the same result.. My car was in worse shape when I got it.. Have been slowly working on it.. Please keep the blog posts coming!!!

    Tony: Currently, I am also in the process of cleaning / rebuilding the carbs.. Quick ?, did
    you take the carbs completely apart (ie: butterflies, butterfly shaft and assemblies) or just
    the obvious carb top pieces? I removed the carb top and anything that was held in by a
    screw, bolt, or was bolted on.. I did not remove the butterfly assemblies, and soaked the
    whole carb body in carb cleaner. The butterfly assembly still feels a little sticky.... I am
    thinking of disassembling the whole thing and trying again! What approach are you taking?

    Mike
     
  21. Thestash

    Thestash Karting

    May 8, 2011
    205
    Wappingers Falls, NY
    Full Name:
    Tony Pistachio
    Hi Mike,
    I did not disassemble the butterfly shafts. They all seem to be working smoothly. But I did remove everything else like the emulsion tubes and jets. Then I just sprayed everything with carb cleaner which melted off all the grunge. I also sprayed into every passage I could. I did not remove the tops of the starter valves (starter/choke circuit). They are spring loaded and I know I'd lose something there. Instead, after taking the starter valve cover off I just manually lifted each tube into its spring with a pick. While holding them up I sprayed under them one at a time.
    These videos gave me the courage to do this as my last carb rebuild was many years ago as a teenager.
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yW8maoWVXzg]42 DCNF Carb Rebuild(1/2) - YouTube[/ame]
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKvzHK5Skrs]42 DCNF Carb Rebuild(2/2) - YouTube[/ame]

    Its a lot easier than I thought it would be.
    Tony
     
  22. CharlieA

    CharlieA Karting

    Nov 4, 2013
    122
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Jarle Adolfsen
    Hello guys!

    Short introduction, from Norway, have a QP III 4.9 1981.
    Been a lurker for a while, not posting much, thought I just would say hello.
    Enjoying reading the QPIII info on the forum.

    My QPIII is my daily driver actually, which sounds like a crazy idea but so far it has worked perfectly. Had several Biturbo's and have a Merak as well as a 1992 2.24v.
    My 2.24v has served as my daily driver for 4 years and 60 000kmtrs, best car I ever had.

    Apart from an oil change lurking and a front suspension bushing change imminent, not much wrong with the car.

    Cheers, Jarle, Norway
     
  23. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Mar 13, 2005
    91,562
    Fuggetaboutitland
    Full Name:
    Bob
    Crazy f'ing Berserker! :D
     
  24. CharlieA

    CharlieA Karting

    Nov 4, 2013
    122
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Jarle Adolfsen
    Hey Bob ;)

    Discovered who it was eh?

    Well, nutcase idea I know, most people said the same when my 2.24v was my only car.

    Hope all is well, how are the projects going?
     
  25. William Abraham

    William Abraham Formula Junior

    Nov 21, 2010
    830
    London, UK
    Full Name:
    William Abraham
    Another one hit by the bug. Any chance of pictures???
     

Share This Page