Loss of power/backfire after engine gets hot | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Loss of power/backfire after engine gets hot

Discussion in '308/328' started by Gloria Giulio, Jun 17, 2013.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. BlueMax

    BlueMax Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 6, 2006
    346
    Murrieta, CA
    Full Name:
    JR
    I recently (today) just had this same problem. Except my car is carbed. Changed the plug wires about a month ago and checked extenders. They seemed fine. (Same resistance).

    The loss f power only seems to come in after about an hour or more of running, well past normal warm up.

    When I got back home I left the car at idle and checked each lead. I was getting an rpm drop at each lead when I pulled it, so no cylinder really stood out as a problem. I let it cool for about an hour and took it out again. It ran fine.

    I'm at a loss where to go from here other than just shotgunning it and replacing all leads, extenders and plugs. It sure would be nice to figure out something specific....
     
  2. Gloria Giulio

    Gloria Giulio Karting

    Jun 6, 2013
    143
    In my case I have changed the ignition leads and plugs but the plug extenders have not been changed yet. I am still monitoring the situation. The problem has recurred once, to a lesser degree than previously, after changing the leads and I am hoping that a little more running might clear it -- you never know. If not then I will get the plug extenders changes. As you say Andyww, it is not clear where to go after that.

    BlueMax, our problems appear very similar. Mine recovers after cooling down too.

    GG
     
  3. maurice70

    maurice70 F1 Rookie

    Jan 25, 2004
    4,334
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    maurice T
    Replace the extenders if you dont know when they were replaced last,this way you can rule that problem.
    Another thing to look at would be the ignition coil modules.I replaced mine just to be on the safe side.
     
  4. Gloria Giulio

    Gloria Giulio Karting

    Jun 6, 2013
    143
    What about a smell of petrol in the RHS air intake, BlueMax? Do you get that too?

    GG
     
  5. maurice70

    maurice70 F1 Rookie

    Jan 25, 2004
    4,334
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    maurice T
    Does it always smell of fuel or only after it has backfired?

    It could be from fuel still being delivered to the combustion chamber but because there is no spark,the fuel doesn't get burnt so the smell of raw unburnt fuel is what you are smelling.
     
  6. conan

    conan Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2011
    389
    I did get a fuel smell in the RHS intake. It was the return line (rubber hose) from the fuel injection that was just old. I tried to figure this out for quite some time ... it is not possible to see the problem visually. Change the hose if unsure when it was replaced.

    Of course, there could be another problem ...
     
  7. Gloria Giulio

    Gloria Giulio Karting

    Jun 6, 2013
    143
    Thanks conan, I'll check that.

    I haven't consistently checked the RHS air intake so I do not know if it is only when the car has backfired but there are instances when I can't smell it. I will check this every outing in the future.

    There is a history to the petrol smell from the car. When I bought the car in April there was the occasional smell of petrol on the driver's side when driving. I took it to a local specialist who took the car out, detected it too and checked the fuel lines but could find no leak or obvious source. At this time, probably unrelated, the car sometimes idled unevenly, running up to 2000 rpm. The uneven idling cleared itself within a month and I had the cam belts changed. We also changed the filler cap seal. There was also a problem with coolant loss -- it appears the cap was not on properly. That was flushed out and replaced too. Since then -- though these issues may not be related -- the smell of petrol when driving has become much less evident, to the extent that now I sometimes 'think' I smell something but am never quite certain.

    While the smell of petrol was stongly evident, the garage smelled very strongly of petrol once or twice, probably after the car had been backfiring and losing power. It was because of this that I started trying to locate the source and found a strong smell in the RHS air intake. A smell in the garage is rare now, though occasionally just about noticeable.

    I'm not sure what all this means.

    GG
     
  8. mgtf1250

    mgtf1250 Rookie

    Apr 13, 2013
    5
    An interesting thread. I have an UK 328 with a sports exhaust (26k mls). It runs well, no heating or power problems but when I back off the throttle after accelerating hard or coast down a steep hill the exhaust pops/gurgles and sometimes backfires. I thought it was normal, you often here it on race cars slowing down. A friend of mine, who restores old race cars, told me a popping on the 'overrun' (whatever that means) indicates it's tuned well. Is he correct? I thought at one time I might have a burnt out valve.
    AJ
     
  9. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,957
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Perhaps on a carburetted engine, but not on a K-Jet without Lambda system (that is working properly) -- JMO...
     
  10. conan

    conan Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2011
    389
    Yes, I have never heard my 328 (no cat) pop - it just gurgles.
     
  11. Doug n Terri

    Doug n Terri Rookie

    Mar 12, 2004
    21
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    Full Name:
    Doug Anderson
    Lean Burn Misfire -
    If your car is equiped with a catalytic converter and the problem IS a lean burn misfire - STOP driving. The unburned fuel will ignite in the cat and melt the strata. The inside of the cat will look like honey comb that had a hair dryer attack it.

    Why lean burn? You smell fuel, and there is loss of power.

    How? Air leak (unless fuel pressures are wacko [highly technical term]).

    Where? Most likely from the rear tube leaving the air metering device.

    What to do - check to see there are no rips tears or loose clamps.

    Just a guess. Good luck.

    DOUG
     
  12. Doug n Terri

    Doug n Terri Rookie

    Mar 12, 2004
    21
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    Full Name:
    Doug Anderson
    Fuel stinks. Even a little tiny bit. I have seen "leaks" that make no puddle - only shiny fuel hoses. However, unless there is a lot of excess fuel that evaporates by the time you open the deck lid i am not a fan of that as your problem.

    Nevertheless - fuel smell? Not so good. Our cars have a rather nasty tendency to catch fire back there. We don't need an F458 to have an engine fire. Find out why and get it fixed.

    Onward
    DOUG
     
  13. Gloria Giulio

    Gloria Giulio Karting

    Jun 6, 2013
    143
    I'm trying to find out why, but it is not proving easy. is your air leak source likely to apply to my car which only produces the backfire -- loss of power symptoms under very specific conditions, probably due to some sort of heat build up?

    GG
     
  14. Gloria Giulio

    Gloria Giulio Karting

    Jun 6, 2013
    143
    The fuel smell in RHS air intake appears to be the same reported by conan, the return line from the fuel injection. I have had that changed and the smell has gone. Thanks for the tip.

    GG
     
  15. Gloria Giulio

    Gloria Giulio Karting

    Jun 6, 2013
    143
    I had a recurrence of the original problem posted in this thread, the engine getting hot and then a loss of power. Again I found front plug leads had popped out of their holders and two had burned, one rather spectacularly with a small engine fire. This was accompanied by a leaking oil radiator though I cannot imagine that the two are connected. Having replaced the plug leads, my garage then found that only one bank was firing and has traced it to a faulty ignition module. It appears that at some earlier stage an equivalent to a BKL3C was fitted to the car rather than the correct BKL3B or equivalent and this has now failed. Having carried out a quick search about the symptoms of faulty ignition modules, I am wondering if the original problem, loss of power when the engine gets hot, could actually be down to this ignition module getting hot and not performing correctly. While the burnt plug leads are clearly an issue, the car appeared to run reasonably well with burnt plug leads when it was cold. My thesis is that the burnt leads caused some missing, leading to the engine running hotter than it normally would and this was enough to set off the ignition module. I won't know until it never happens again but does this sound plausible to those on the list would have experience with these engines? (I have never been quite convinced that the plug leads themselves would cause the behaviour only when hot, though there may be a mechanism to explain this.)

    GG
     
  16. ME308

    ME308 Formula 3

    Nov 5, 2003
    1,550
    Munich, Germany
    Full Name:
    Michael
    yes ... most probably !


    since you are in Europe, get here :

    FERRARI 328 3.2 86-89 ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODULE OE QU | eBay

    or here:

    Schaltgerät, Zündanlage HELLA 5DA 006 623-431 | eBay


    those BLK3B modules have a well known history of going south ...
    in a 328, I would always carry a spare (just like as a Porsche 964 driver I always carry a spare DME relay ;) )


    btw:

    Ignition Module Marelli BKL 3B

    Alternatives
    Facet 9.4030
    Hella 5DA 006 623-431
    Hüco 138083
    Lucas DAB801
    Meat-Doria 10043
    Motorcraft EDY13
    Valeo 245537
    2595026
    2595029
    Valeo (I) CD883

    OEM
    Bresch BKL3B
    Ducati 28740331A
    Ford 1 637 546
    HB Autoelektrik 19010053
    Intermotor 15030
    Transpo XM631
    Unipoint IM702
    .
     
  17. Gloria Giulio

    Gloria Giulio Karting

    Jun 6, 2013
    143
    Thanks, and for the list. I have bought another BKL3B from Superformance but I think I'll take your advice and keep a spare from the list.

    GG
     
  18. Gloria Giulio

    Gloria Giulio Karting

    Jun 6, 2013
    143
    #43 Gloria Giulio, May 20, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    This problem has resurfaced once more. Having replaced burnt plug leads, a dead ignition module that was the wrong model anyway, the oil radiator, put in a set of better spec plugs and oil and tracked down and fixed a small fuel line leak, I thought perhaps the backfiring, loss of power problem was also history, until a couple of days ago. The symptoms were the same as always. After a long drive -- in this case a couple of hours of lively running around some country roads -- I eventually got caught in slow moving traffic and the backfiring on deceleration started with a small but noticeable loss of power. back in the garage there was a distinct smell of petrol in the exhaust.

    The only cause I can think of is an unusual heat build up somewhere in the engine after a long drive but then why would that cause ignition problems? Two possible causes that have been suggested previously are either an exhaust manifold gasket leaking when the car is hot or a problem with the warm up regulator. I have not been able to link the issue to either of these so far, so any suggestions would be welcome.

    One factor that I have not considered previously but which might have some bearing is that a former owner has replaced the degraded foam that lined the bulkhead between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment with a silver material that looks like a heat shield (see attachment). Could this lead to heat buildup in the forward engine compartment and if so, could that result in ignition problems? Is it plausible for plug leads or the ignition modules which, are in the same area, to start misbehaving if they get too hot?

    GG
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  19. andyww

    andyww F1 Rookie

    Feb 7, 2011
    2,775
    London
    Sounds like some electrical/electronic component in the ignition system is marginal and failing when very hot.
    The crank sensors were mentioned earlier and could be a possibility, or what about maybe changing the other ignition module?
    The plug leads and extenders have been changed already?

    Possibly a flaky coil be less likely, or (even less likely) the actual ignition box.

    If the car has ever been difficult to start that would also be evidence of a low-output crank sensor.
     
  20. Gloria Giulio

    Gloria Giulio Karting

    Jun 6, 2013
    143
    So far as I know he plug extenders were not changed with the plug leads so that is worth checking. Also the other ignition module. There has never (so far, fingers crossed) been a problem with starting.

    Any ideas about whether the silver heat shield material in the car is likely to create any problems?

    GG
     
  21. andyww

    andyww F1 Rookie

    Feb 7, 2011
    2,775
    London
    I would doubt that material would cause any problem. As I understand it, only Euro cars had the foam material originally anyway.
     
  22. Crowndog

    Crowndog F1 Veteran

    Jul 16, 2011
    7,042
    Fairfield,Pa
    Full Name:
    Robert
    I don't see any suggestions that you may have a vacuum leak so I will throw that one in. Check the vacuum lines at the various teimation points by flexing them up a little and feel for the crack or split that only opens up when hot on the side opposite. Look particularly in areas were the hose gets flexed a lot during routine maintenance. Ex off the plenum near the oil filter. JMO
     
  23. Crowndog

    Crowndog F1 Veteran

    Jul 16, 2011
    7,042
    Fairfield,Pa
    Full Name:
    Robert
    Next idea, check the injector bushings while hot, do they have too much play or wiggle? They don't last forever either.
     
  24. Gloria Giulio

    Gloria Giulio Karting

    Jun 6, 2013
    143
    Thanks, Crowndog, for the suggestion about the vacuum lines and the injector bushings. This is a particularly elusive problem so any ideas are welcome.

    andyww, regarding the foam on the bulkhead, do you know its purpose? I had imagined it was sound insulation. Do you suppose that is correct?

    GG
     
  25. andyww

    andyww F1 Rookie

    Feb 7, 2011
    2,775
    London
    Using foam on the inside of an engine bay bulkhead is a strange thing to do. The material on your car is a much more conventional solution. But it must have been for sound insulation as the original stuff is a layer-cake composition of 3 different densities of material, which is exactly what would work best for this purpose.

    I am not sure why only Euro cars had the foam. Also on the 328, early cars apparently had it, then they dropped it, then re-instated it on late cars.

    The Dino 246 also had the foam incidentally.
     

Share This Page