Is it possible to remove the oil pressure sending unit without removing the filter?

I just purchased a new oil pressure sending unit to replace mine that is acting jerky with the readings, and want to know the easiest way to replace it. I know most people are removing the filter, and accessing it from the top, but is it possible from a different angle without removing the filter? I have a lift, so I can access it from the wheel well, or underneath if necessary. Has anyone done this? Or is the only way via filter removal?

I also noticed that the new part has a VDO stamp on it. Is that the manufacturer for the OEM part? It came in a Ferrari box, but I know there was talk about people using an aftermarket VDO sensor on their car for less money. Did VDO just make the same part with different thread sizes, sell it as a Ferrari part, and jack up the price? If so, I probably should have bought the generic sensor with an adaptor, and saved a ton of money!

Thanks I had posted and read similar posts about this, but I couldn't seem to find a straight answer about replacement procedures. I'm now ready to replace it, and want all the info that I can gather before diving in. Thanks!

 

Short answer, no. Just did mine and you definitely have to remove the filter....

 

What he said.

I did find I could use a 15/16 wrench (or crows foot) in lieu of a 24 or 25mm wrench, but the filter has to come off. Not a lot of room, plus of course the cross brace on the upper frame

 

Did you put the old filter back, or did you need a new one?
Did you mean that the cross brace has to get removed?, or does it just limit your access?

Based on these answers, I am assuming that the sensor gets removed from the top of the engine (not the from the wheel well, or underneath), is that correct?

Approximately (or exactly) what torque is used for the new sensor? Is it pretty much like a drain bolt, maybe 25 ft/lbs +/-?

Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to dig into it soon.

 

Yes, from the top.......

Remove the cross brace on the upper engine support frame (Item # 8) to access the oil filter (30) & pressure sending unit (36/37)

Remove the oil filter & now you can get access to the wrench flats on the oil press sending unit.

The new oil press sending unit will come with a copper crush washer (just like an oil drain plug). When you remove the old sending unit you will see how tight the new one should be (you shouldn't reuse the copper crush washer).

I torqued mine to German torque specs "Gooten tight"
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

You don't have to remove the cross brace but I would suggest a 24mm crowfoot wrench as well as removing the filter(you can replace the same filter).

One thing I can share as well is that you should come from the left side and get a small breaker bar as that damn thing is on there tight. When putting on the new one don't use too much force or over tighten it. Same goes for the oil filter, lube the ring with a little oil and don't over tighten it.

Pretty straight forward affair just grab a beer and take your time

 

Sleddriver and david, thanks for the remarks, it will help a lot!
I'm going to buy a crowfoot wrench (I don't have one that big), I'll try to do it without removing the cross brace, but it's no big deal to remove it if it's going to get damaged, or scrape my hands up in the process. I guess this will be a trial and error sort of thing.
As far as the oil filter goes, I have the proper HE alloy wrench and will torque it to the proper specs. I like to torque everything that I have specs for.
I'm sure it will be no big deal, I just wanted to hear from people that have done it already so I can get any helpful hints that I can.

 

Just replaced mine yesterday.
Trying to remove the sender unit from the top of the engine bay was difficult as I didn't have leverage to unscrew it. I removed it from the bottom (right side of the engine has lots of space, away from all the hoses/wires) instead.

Remove the oil filter (very easy when accessing it from the bottom right side of the engine again) and when the process is complete, just put it back on. Make sure you coat a bit of oil on the rubber ring of the oil filter before replacing it back, when everything's done.

To remove the factory sender unit, I used a 15/16 crowsfeet wrench. You have to apply a bit of pressure pushing upwards (from the right side of the engine), before it becomes loose. Lost a bit of skin, when it suddenly turned. Ouch! Be careful when loosening the old sender unit or wear gloves.

With the replacement VDO unit and adapter, I used a 19mm and 17mm wrench respectively. Just to prevent annoying leaks, I used the thread sealant (All info on the VDO unit, and the sealant is on the other post).

All done and fitted. Torque the sender unit to 25Nm (That's the recommended in the workshop manual as well). You can get those mini torque wrenches from bicycle shops, if you want to be absolutely accurate.

If your replacement sender unit is similiar as mine, make sure the connector wire goes to the connector marked 'G' and not 'WRK'.

As for results, my oil presure reading is extremely stable and doesn't fluctuate. I've taken a video. I'll have to post it up into youtube if you want me to. Too large for uploading into the forum.

Whole process took me under 1/2 hr. The tedious part was removing and refitting the underpanel and the billion and one screws/bolts underneath.

Cheers.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Thanks for the great write up Fatty! I really appreciate the time you took to update us. I'm going to also do mine very soon. After reading your experience, I'm thinking that I should probably not even waste my time trying to get it from the top. Not only will I hurt my back trying not to lean on the car, but I will also be nervous about scratching the paint. I think I'm just going to put it right on the lift, turn on some music, and enjoy the process.
Two more questions. Is there enough room reaching up from under the car to torque the oil filter, or will I have to torque it from the top once the job is done?
and where did you find the torque spec for the sensor? I can't seem to find it in the shop manual. Did you get it from VDO? If so, I'm wondering if it is the same spec as the original since the original has bigger threads.
I would LOVE to see the video of how the gauge looks now (also a before video if you have). If you post it on youtube, then copy and paste the link on Fchat in a reply, it will show the video in your response.

 

Here's a video of the oil pressure at idle with some revs, after fitting on the new oil sender unit.
F360 Idle after new oil sender unit install - YouTube

Pretty happy with the results I have, considering it used to jump slightly when the car is at idle.

There's ample room to reach the oil filter from the right side of the engine, but not enough room to remove it. I totally unscrew the oil filter from the right, and then remove it from the left.

As for the torque, it's found in the "Workshop Manual 360 Modena Vol 1.pdf"
Page 118 of 360 (or section B Page 20) - "Tightening of electric oil pressure unit" which is 25Nm.

Good luck.

 

Exactly what I did and same VDO unit used 👍

 

Awesome! Thanks. I'm anxious to dive in.
The video shows the gauge reacting nice and smoothly as I would expect it to.

 

Do they just get clogged up over time from vapor,heat,oil? I am assuming there is a small hole in it.

 

I guess it could be that. There is a VERY small hole in it. It is basically a pin hole.

 

I started it this morning, I have a few comments.
The job is going very smoothly. It only took me about 10 minutes total (at most) to remove the wiring for the sending unit, and the oil filter. proper tools really make the work easy. I can't continue now because my wrench is too long, and where it sits on the flats, there is no room to turn the wrench. UPS is supposed to bring my crowfoot wrenches today, so production stopped until he comes with the tools. I decided to try to get it from the top if it's not too difficult, just to save me the work of removing the panels underneath. I'm pretty sure that with the crowfoot wrench, and some extensions, it should be easy.
More importantly, the reason I was motivated to write this:
When I removed the filter, I was expecting at least 18 ft/lbs of force on the filter. I've been wrenching on cars a long time, so I know what to expect. Welllll....I put the cap wrench on the filter and started to position my ratchet so I can get a good position and grip (I didn't want to damage engine parts or knuckles). As soon as I started to tighten my grip on the wrench, the filter came loose!!!! It wasn't even what I would consider hand tight. At best, it was tightened to the point where the gasket touches, plus 1/8 of a turn. I have no idea how it didn't leak? I think I averted a disaster today.
I started getting VERY angry at the selling dealer again. Those of you who know my story when I purchased it, know that my selling dealer was not what I consider acceptable performance for any business. Now I realize that their service dept. is also a disaster! These guys are unbelievable.
Anyway, I'll post the final outcome after the tools come in the mail.

 

Yikes. That's quite scary workmanship from the dealer, albiet not surprised as I've seen/heard many horror stories here as well. If you could take pictures on how you access it from the top, that'll be great. I tried various contortionist positions, to no avail. I think having short arms doesn't help!

 

I think it's my height and long arms that make it possible (I'm 6'1" with 36-37" arms). I stand directly in the center of the car as close as possible (without touching, LOL) and lean in, my left hand supports my upper body weight on the red manifold cover or air filter housing, my right hand reaches from the right side just under the silver engine cradle and I worked with one hand to remove the wire on the sensor. I didn't have to take off the cross brace on top (yet).
For the filter, I wiggled the cap wrench in from the left side, then put it onto the filter. I then put a long extension on my ratchet and loosened it while in a comfortable position. The filter was then wiggled out through the left side under the silver engine cradle. It really wasn't that bad at all. Believe it or not, the worst part was that there is a small rubber hose that passes right above the filter, making it difficult to put the cap wrench on it with one hand. I was being careful not to damage that hose which is why it was difficult.
So far it was a very easy job. I will update again when I actually install the sensor. I don't suspect that it will be too difficult because as I stated above, I already put a wrench on it, unfortunately I was unable to move it because the wrench was too long. The crow foot wrenches that I ordered were supposed to come in the mail today, but they got delayed until tomorrow. I'm pretty sure that with the correct wrenches, it will be a breeze (even from the top side). If not, I will tackle the sensor from the bottom. I don't want any damage to the car, so if it's not easy, I will change my plan of attack.
When I install it, if possible, I will get photos of my arm and the wrench set up that was required to get the sensor off.

 

Yep, I'm 6'1-2" and same scenario.... With the crowfoot wrench the top brace can stay in. I had the whole job done in 30 minutes and that was being pretty anal, using permatex thread sealer and zip tying the hoses and wires out of the way. 👍

 

Ok, I'm all done with the replacement. It went very smoothly. the hardest part was retrieving the crowfoot wrench after it fell off when the old sensor loosened up. It went all the way down to the plastic undercarriage covers. I couldn't even see where it was. Thankfully I have one of those inspection cameras with a magnetic tip, so I was able to retrieve it in a minute or two. Those things are great! It saved my butt a few times already.
I tried to get photos of how I reached in there, but I was alone, and couldn't get a photo that showed anything useful...sorry.
The gauge is perfect now with rock steady readings...woohoo!
Here are two videos, a before and an after.

By the way, with the proper tools, the whole job with cleanup is less than 1/2 hr. It was actually way easier than I had anticipated. If anyone that lives near me needs it done, and is apprehensive about it or doesn't have tools, you are more than welcome to PM me for my address and come over and I'll change it out for you. I would be more than happy to help out a Ferrari brother!

Before:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=am1zjD0f4I0

After:

Ferrari 360 gauge after sending unit replaced - YouTube

While recording the second video the engine was colder, so the pressure reading is a little higher. I just wanted to show the steadiness of it.

 

I'm no Ferrari guru and my 360 is my first one so I don't have a lot of reference. As far as I know mine is OK. My oil pressure follows the RPM, more or less. In other words, it sags off a bit at idle and comes up when I rev the engine just like all cars with oil pressure gauges but perhaps a little more reactive than most cars and the range from low to high is quite a bit more than any of my previous cars. As expected, the general oil pressure is higher when cold and lower when warm.

But the video of your reading (new sender) appears so rock steady that it makes me wonder if the sender unit is actually working. You certainly don't want it jumping all over the place in a random fashion as though there is an intermittent electrical connection, but I would assume you want it to follow the RPM in a logical way.

Again, I'm no guru, but I'll be checking back here to read comments. What say you?

 

My new sensor does show the pressure coinciding with the RPM's. I'm guessing that the reason it was steady on my video is because the engine was cold, so it responds a little more sluggishly. Since it was cold, I probably didn't vary the RPM as much either. It is totally normal for the pressure gauge to follow the RPM's. It will vary anywhere from ~30psi to ~90psi (out of memory).
The reason I replaced mine was the jitteriness that is evident in the video I posted. It worked ok, I just didn't fully trust it.

 

If I need to I think I'll get my mechanic to change it on my next oil change when he has the filter out.
Alan

 

Reviving an old thread ...

My oil pressure reading is erratic ... jumping about and reading high. Seems like I have the same symptoms many here had.

I noticed that many of you guys replaced the oil pressure sending unit with a VDO unit as it is a lot pricey compared to Ferrari part. But you need an adapter because of different thread size.

Would appreciate it if you could tell me the VDO part number and also the adapter that your used.

Thanks,

Steve

 

Hi everyone, i had the same problem, I replaced the unit yesterday, at first I had strong reading, but when the engine warm up the pressure went way down on low rpm. if I bring the rpm up the gage rise to 70-80 and then goes back to 20
how does your gage reads at warm engine?

 

Hi everyone, i had the same problem, I replaced the unit yesterday, at first I had strong reading, but when the engine warm up the pressure went way down on low rpm. if I bring the rpm up the gage rise to 70-80 and then goes back to 20
how does your gage reads at warm engine?