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Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by stevew3765, Oct 28, 2013.

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  1. stevew3765

    stevew3765 Formula Junior

    Oct 27, 2012
    716
    Tulsa, Oklahoma USA
    Full Name:
    Steve Wool
    #26 stevew3765, Oct 31, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    please help identify. This is a pic of the connector that goes into the temp gauge and op gauge. note in the previous pic temp gauge has obvious power, next pic is the op sender unit with their respective wires. Would like to identify which wire is the warning light and which wire is the op needle. I ask because I cannot make heads or tails of the wiring diagram in our manual. Thanks....I was wondering if anyone knew what each colored wire is.
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  2. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
    BANNED

    #27 Cribbj, Nov 1, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Steve, offhand I would say the black wire at your connector is the wire from the wiper of the OP sender that goes to your OP gauge. I'm guessing the wire for the oil pressure lamp doesn't come into this connector and goes somewhere else.

    To confirm which wire in that connector is for the OP gauge:

    1. First, put your meter on resistance, then earth one lead to the chassis, or the battery as finnerty suggested, and now measure the resistance of all the terminals on that connector you showed in your photo and write them down. Leave the oil pressure sender connected as you have it in your photo. I'm guessing you should have about 10-12 ohms to earth on that black wire.

    2. Now, get a close look at the backside of the oil pressure sender where the wires terminate and see which terminal is marked "G" (Gauge) and which is "WK" (Warning Kontact). See my pic below, which is of an old 550 oil pressure sender, and which should be identical to yours. I'm guessing, based on the position of the "rib" on your sender, that the wire with the yellow marker is the one you want.

    3. Disconnect the wire that is connected to the "G" terminal.

    4. Now measure the resistance of all the wires in that connector again, and see which one changed - probably the black one now reads infinity? That should be the other end of the black wire you disconnected at the sender.

    I would guess the other wire on the sender, connected to the WK terminal, does not go to the connector in your picture, but perhaps to another connector for dash warning lights, etc. Either that or Ferrari changed the wire color between the sender and the connector!
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  3. stevew3765

    stevew3765 Formula Junior

    Oct 27, 2012
    716
    Tulsa, Oklahoma USA
    Full Name:
    Steve Wool
    #28 stevew3765, Nov 1, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I want to take this opportunity to thank all those that contributed to this thread. I hope that this will be useful to someone that might be having a similar issue. It came down to a couple of 10a fuses in the passenger floorboard. So, I have op readings now. Still no dash lights or license plate lights yet. I am hoping the relay I ordered will do the trick un der the hood drivers side. FYI this is what my fuse box looks like and looked like when I purchased the car. See what's missing and there doesn't seem to be much harm by the missing fuses and relays there. Opinions?
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  4. finnerty

    finnerty F1 World Champ

    May 18, 2004
    10,406
    #29 finnerty, Nov 3, 2013
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
    Steve ---

    I don't know what spec your car is, nor do I have detailed knowledge of the 355 electrical system. But, in general, on any car made with different variants and model year revisions, it would not be unusual to have unoccupied fuse / relay positions ---- depending upon year, US / Euro, spider / berlinetta, 6-speed / F1, options installed, etc.

    So, I doubt that you are actually "missing" any fuses / relays ---- they are most likely simply not used (and were never installed) for your particular car.

    Your owners manual should indicate what those locations are used for ---- therefore, you can determine why your car does not need them. Also, very often a fuse / relay panel in a more modern car has empty locations simply because the manufacturer sourced a panel in a generic configuration from the supplier with no need / intention to ever fully populate all the available locations. Come to think of it, I cannot recall ever seeing a completely occupied panel on any (make or model) car I've looked at since about 1985 :).
     
  5. finnerty

    finnerty F1 World Champ

    May 18, 2004
    10,406
    #30 finnerty, Nov 3, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  6. stevew3765

    stevew3765 Formula Junior

    Oct 27, 2012
    716
    Tulsa, Oklahoma USA
    Full Name:
    Steve Wool
    Thanks. That's why I wanted an opinion. Because according to the manual, those are labled positions. I take that as there is/was a use for them. I just can't seem find and issues with them being empty. 1997 355 speed 5.2 spider. I just don't want to order those relays stick them in and open a can of worms.
     

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