Nippondenso Alternator question | FerrariChat

Nippondenso Alternator question

Discussion in '348/355' started by gaw111, Oct 2, 2013.

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  1. gaw111

    gaw111 Formula Junior
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    #1 gaw111, Oct 2, 2013
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2013
    Ok, seems standard but can't find the same symptoms as this on other threads. So, anyway, yesterday I was doing work on the interior of my 348 and I accidently press the park light button on the center console. It was left on for a little bit but I turned them off as soon as I noticed it. I started the car soon after that and it was a little slow to start but no big deal. I decided to drive the car around for awhile to charge it up some (any excuse to drive her). After about 20 minutes of driving, my wife wanted to stop at a store and I shut the car off. When we finished what we had to do, I tried to start the car and the battery was flat, I mean flat! Got a jump and started home and had all kinds of lights flashing on the dash and the radio was turning on and off. The car ran poorly at idle but as soon as I started to accelerate, it ran ok. Limped the car home ok and shut it down. Pulled the battery out and charged it all night.

    Took it to Advance Auto this morning and had it load tested, came back as above average. So, put it back in the car and drove it to Advance Auto again and had them run a test on the whole system. Only problem noted was excessive frequency. Also, there was a light draw on the battery after the car was turned off, only 0.06 amps, so, not to bad, figure that is the radio draw for memory.

    After I got home I tested the battery again and everything still looked good. At idle it puts out 13.1, revved to 2k and went to 14.1.

    Looked on the internet about excessive frequency, found out it has to do with diodes and to test for A/C power at the battery. Normal is 0.1 volts A/C, my reading was 0.1 to 0.12 at idle to 2k RPM, seems normal to me. I let the battery sit for an hour and tested the voltage again and it shows 12.8 volts at rest which is good. Then I started the car one more time and turned on the lights, radio and A/C and tested it again, 12.3v at idle and 14.0 at around 2k RPM.

    I've checked the belt, it's tight. No corrosion anywhere but just to be sure, I put some dielectric on the negative cable mount to the engine and at the disconnect on the ground cable as well.

    So, any suggestion? Everything seems normal to me, other than the dead battery. This is not the 1st time it has went dead but this is the worst. I am guilty of taking the car for short trips to the store and back, not really giving it time to charge back up. But driving it around for 20 min should have been long enough to get some charge back.
     
  2. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    If your battery is in the rear, and you still have the bullet connectors, get rid of them for solid cables.

    Over time the bullet connectors tend to lose their ability to make a good connection at the joint. When I first got my car I had problems with the car dying one me while I was driving! See, the power from the alternator runs to the starter, and then from the starter to the battery, via the stupid bullet connector. So if that connection gets loose the battery won't be receiving the charge from the alternator. The car will run off the battery until it is drained, and/or the battery won't charge properly if at all.
     
  3. gaw111

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    Thanks Ernie, if I have a problem with it again, I will remove it. Just weird that it seems like a perfectly running system, then it's not. I read your alternator rebuild thread, good stuff. I tried to find the parts you used and the website you listed is out of business. Did some more googling and found what looks correct on ebay, they look the same anyway.

    The excessive frequency indicates a failing alternator, so, I was going to get the parts together before it quits completely. Thinking it's only the rectifier but want to replace regulator as well, since I'm in there.My car only has 30k on it so, that should be about all it needs. Thanks again.
     
  4. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    But remember it's BOTH bullet connectors you need to replace with solid cable. You need to replace the positive and the negative bullet connectors for solid. I think I spent $25-ish +/- on getting the cables made.
     
  5. gaw111

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    Wait, where is the positive connector? Maybe mine was already replaced.
     
  6. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    It's located under the air box.
     
  7. gaw111

    gaw111 Formula Junior
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    Cool, I'll look tomorrow!
     
  8. gaw111

    gaw111 Formula Junior
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    Ok, the car has been sitting for 48 hrs now. I also tested the battery after 24 hrs resting.

    after 24 hrs: 12.62
    After 48 hrs: 12.62

    Seems to be holding well. Hope the problem is not a problem. I just need to make sure I drive the car longer after starting, no more short trips to the store a half a mile up the road and back (2 starts with no recharge time).
     
  9. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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  10. gaw111

    gaw111 Formula Junior
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    Cool, thanks again Ernie!
     
  11. gaw111

    gaw111 Formula Junior
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    That could be the problem, I've had mine get stuck mid way and not worry about it till it need used again! Been thinking about doing the conversion to a regular belt setup that someone posted recently.
     
  12. gaw111

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    Ok, it finally gave up the goat! Left me stranded in the middle of Miami after the Toys for Tots Rally. A tow truck to Advance Auto, new battery and another night in a hotel to recharge the battery, I made it back to Marathon!

    So, now to order the parts. I have got a source for the rectifier, Regitar RN-10 right? However, after reading all the threads, it seems I should order an USI rectifier (right Ernie?). Where can that be located? Living in the Keys, don't have modern conveniences like alternator rebuild shops. Is there a source online that I can contact? If I can't find a source, guess I'll just get the Regitar regulator as well.

    The Toys for Tots rally was a blast BTW and I recommend it to anyone in the area that doesn't attend already. 268 exotic cars, with the road to ourselves. Very weird to be on I95 with no one but exotics in front and behind! We stretched out for miles!!
     
  13. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Yes, you want the USI .......... r e g u l a t o r. ;) Part number 71-30003/SCP

    I bought mine from Unit II.
    (805) 659-4610
    www.unit2inc.com

    Remember to check the condition of the brushes and slip ring.
     
  14. gaw111

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    Man, you called me out! :) Okay, I'll give them a call tomorrow. Regitar rectifier and USI regulator! haha I'll tear it down and verify all the parts inside.

    I'm tired, it was a long 3 hr trip back to the Keys! 3 hr drive turned into 24!! Just didn't want to put her in a shop and end up paying big $$$$.

    Thanks again for your help on this problem again.
     
  15. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Your welcome, and I'm glad to help.
     
  16. taz355

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    Ernie at the chance of being laughed at (never bothers me) are the mouse belts those seat belts that move on tracks and if they are what was there design purpose.
     
  17. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Yup, those are they. They were because of D.O.T. passive restraint requirements, then everything went to airbags.
     
  18. gaw111

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    Ok, got it all apart! Pretty easy as Ernie said. The only thing is the reg cooling fins look different, but the rectifier is the same measurements as the RN-10, 113mm. So, I'm going to order the 2 parts today!
     
  19. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Who did you end up ordering the RN-10 from?
     
  20. gaw111

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    I tried to contact Unit II, but my email returned because there email acct was disabled. So, going to try the Regitars at Regitar.com out of Montgomery AL. They had them in stock and would ship them today. Both parts for 38 bucks + shipping. I was thinking that if I ordered it from Unit II, they would have to get it then send it to me. I'm going to try and find a alternator shop in Miami and order it from them. Figured it was easy to remove when it fails again, I'll get the USI the next time. Actually, I'm going to try and find one now, so, I'll have it on hand the next time. I really want the car back to 100% before Christmas.
     
  21. gaw111

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    I took all the lower engine covers off and scrubbed the dirt off while I was there. The engine is still very clean down there.
     
  22. gaw111

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    Good news and bad news. Good news first, got the parts, put them in, installed the alternator, car is charging.

    Bad news, I have one of the smaller alternators, so, had to order an RN-10, it will be here in a few days. Plus the alternator charges but at idle the battery light comes on, as soon as I give it any gas (100 RPMs) the light goes out. Hope the correct rectifier fixes it. All the parts looked good inside, no play in the bearings, stators appear to be in good shape and the bushing look good as well.

    If all else fails, I'll get another alternator.
     
  23. gaw111

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    Ok, status update. Got the RN04 in and guess what, it didn't work!!! It's not putting out anything now, think maybe I need a new regulator again. So, after going to a marine battery shop, and they verified what I knew, I decided to try something else. Went to Advance Auto and the guy there scratched his head and started looking at his stock. He found a reman alternator for a 91 Toyota Corolla. It only puts out 70 amps but it was almost perfect fit and only $78 bucks. So, went home and researched it and sure enough it uses a IN220 reg, so I figured what the hell. I had it bench tested before I left so if it didn't work I could bring it back. The post comes out of the side but still manageable.

    After I got it back to the house, I installed it and it was almost perfect. had to add a .25 in spacer on the top bolt and used a M8 bolt about 3 in long but the bottom fits perfect and the belt alignment is perfect, so it's in and works!

    Going to drive it and see how long it last but for now, drove it for about an hour and ran it up to 7 grand. once I parked the car, put a multi meter on the battery, battery is charged back up to 12.9 with car running at idle, revved to about 3k and it goes to 13.4. Turned on the lights and it dropped to 12.8 when revved it went back to 13.4!

    It's a Tough One, the PN is 14809. It fits a 91 Toyota Corolla. I kept my core, so, that added another $35, but still a good price. I'm going to try another reg in mine and see it that fixes it and keep it as a spare. There is another one for a 91 Corolla that puts out 130 amps. Might try that one if I get concerned about amps. But anyway, this might help someone in a pinch or if you just can't get yours working.

    So, there's my addition to the Stooge community! Hope this helps someone out.. :)
     
  24. gaw111

    gaw111 Formula Junior
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    If you guys think this would be a good addition to the 348 parts sourcing, interchange thread, I'll add it.
     
  25. gaw111

    gaw111 Formula Junior
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    Oh, also, a rebuild kit for this is only $26 bucks on ebay. But the alternator comes with a lifetime warranty!
     

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