After he finds a replacement water pump rebuilder. We all know he is too cheap to buy a new water pump.
Ok Ernie, the seal goes in like so? Cut out matched to oil return hole? There is no reference mark on the head to line up the outside mark. I positioned the seal in the head without the cam lined up the weep hole and made a mark on the head that aligned with the mark on the outside if the bushing, than after I installed the cams I rotated the bushing until it lined up with my mark on the head. Sound right? Thanks Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yeah, that's it. The mark on the top is 180° from the oil drain cut out. I slide the cam in first, then I fit the seal and cam at the same time. But how you did it I actually like better. Be ABSOLUTLY sure the o-ring grove is perfectly clean, no oil or dirt at all.
Fit it dry? I used a little oil on it. Is that bad? Now when the valve cover goes on what do you do at the junction of the o ring and the valve cover gasket? I know I have to cut it. Do you use a small amount of sealer at that point. My old seals were leaking a lot, I would like to avoid the mistake the last person who was spinning a wrench on this machine made.
Cut it? Why do you need to cut it? I put a dab of Hondabond at the where the o-ring, valve cover, and gasket meet. Actually I use it on both the top and bottom of the green gasket where it contacts the head and cover. I know you don't have to but I just like having no oil leaks. Last time I did my engine out major I used a sealer called ThreeBond. It worked ok for a few years, but eventually it leaked. I have had very good success with Hondabond. I used it to seal up my gearbox after a rebuild, and where I used the Hondabond it has not leaked one drop, not one. This time around I'm using it to seal up all the gaskets. The o-rings I fit dry because they don't turn and in my opinion do not need lubrication. They are to keep oil inside the engine, and I feel if you oil them the rubber won't make a tight fit/seal with the aluminum.
Oh, oh, oh! Durrrrrrrrr! Yeah, a dab of Hondabond at the corners will be good. And yes, dry o-ring/o-ring grooves else the Hondabond doesn't seal at the o-ring.
Ok last question, what do you gap the cam followers at ? I see another member set them to 20 thousands but that looks to close. When the belts are running around I would think that they are trying to lift off the cam gears and would rub excessively on the followers. Workshop manual I can't seam to find them.
Ernie I'm just about ready to button it up, I'm setting the belt tension useing a staeger tensiometer, factory specs 140-160 taken from both sides of belt and added. So I have 80 and 70 right on the money. But I had to add a little tension on the Bering to bring it up. Without any help my readings were in the 130 range. And when standing in front of the engine rotation is clockwise right? Image Unavailable, Please Login
OH WAIT!!!! WHOA WHOA WHOA! The CAM followers. I wasn't paying attention. I though you were asking about the followers for the cam BELT. The specs I set my cam/shim gaps to are: Intake: .20mm - 25mm Exhaust: .30mm - .35mm But those actually vary per car, cat vs non-cat.
Well for crying out loud, and I deleted that post. The cam followers on the belt we concluded get set to 1mm. There was never anything "official" on the subject we could find. So....... 1mm gap for the BELT followers.
