348 engine out major

With the bolt removed I can now slide the pulley off the crank.
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Be sure not to loose the woodruff key in the slot on the crank. That mark I'm point to you can't see because it's behind the pulley, so in my opinion is useless.
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To get the bottom of the engine sump pan off I needed the to have the alternator brace removed.

First I'll remove the tensioner retaining bolt. With that off the tensioner comes right off.
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Then I removed the bolts, on the top and bottom bracket, holding the alternator in place, and removed the alternator.
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With the alternator out of the way I now have access to the nuts holding the bracket to the block.

You unbolt the three nuts on the side of the bracket, pictured here.
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Then the 2 on the front of the bracket, which where behind the bearing.
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And then I removed the alternator bracket from the block.
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Since I am not running any a/c, or heater for that matter, I decided to remove the fitting on the side of the pump for the heater hose.

I inserted a ratchet into the pipe so I could unscrew, and remove it. I'll be fitting a plug to it later.
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Ok back to the normal stuff.

Now it's time for me to remove the valve covers. I started by removing the 10mm nuts holding the covers to the head.
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I leave the spark plugs in place so that when I remove the valve covers nothing can fall into the cylinders.
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Next I removed the nuts holding the rear cam covers to the head, and valve cover for the 5/8 bank. Be sure to place a rag underneath as oil will drip out when you remove them.
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Now over to the 1/4 bank.

First I remove the rear cam cover for the exhaust cam.
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Then the nuts holding the cover for the intake cam faze sensor.
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There is a nut holding the cam faze sensor connector to the sensor housing. That needs to come off then the connector can com off.
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With the connector and the nuts off the cam sensor can now be removed.

A closer look reveals the manufacture part number for the sensor. Siemens HKZ101 9005, & 02.88 (whatever those numbers are for)
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The sensor covers up the allen bolts holding the housing to the cam cover and head. Remove the 3 allen bolts, and the housing comes off.
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A view from the back of the housing shows the rear intake cam seal that will get replaced later on. It's important to change this because if oil gets into the faze sensor it will cause all kinds of trouble for the edu.
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Time to take the valve covers off.

I used a plastic scraper to get under the valve gaskets. This is so that I don't mare the aluminum. I loosen the covers from the head and then lift them up.
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No so fast there hot shot!

Remember the secondary injection check valves I removed earlier?

Here is why.

The valve cover comes in contact with the piping just enough to stop it from coming off clean. Last time I did this I scratched the pain on my freshly powered coated valve covers, and I was not a happy boy.
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What I did was, stick a ratchet extension into the pipe so I could pry it open juuuuuuuust enough to lift the cover of. I was careful not to put too much pressure on it because I didn't want to bend the piping. There is probably a more sophisticated way of doing this, but I di it my way, the Stooge way.
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And there you have it. The engine stripped down, and the valve covers removed.

That's it for now.

Your friendly neighborhood Stooge checking out. I'll back later for some more show and tell.
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I wouldn't push it this far again. You'll see exactly why later.

I say yank it and do the major.