Hi Folks, here is the first part of the valve clearance measuring and adjustment video. According to my service history it was done by a reputable London dealer recently....very recently.......and on measuring all my clearances it had indeed been done very diligently and accurately.....BUT TO A MONDIAL 8 SPECIFICATION!! Bloody hell it's a good job I checked!! I only took my cam covers off because I wanted to paint them. If I'd have left it I could have been facing an engine rebuild due to burt valves which is an engine out, not something I relly have time for right now. Anyway, rant over...I'm calm All the best, Bell. Here is the first part, sorry but I was working in imperial and converting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT3qW16BCqw&feature=youtu.be
Excellent video. Case in point: "Don't move to England!" Interesting method of moving the car in gear to rotate the cams.
I have always been curious when it comes to my valve clearances. Although the service history on my car is 'complete' with lots of receipts, there is no explicit statement that they have been done. How do you know when they are needed or do you just need to check regularly. My TVR Cerb needed checks every 10k miles. What do you recommend for the Mondi?
auch! What are the specs for a Mondial 8 other than a QV? They both share the same workshop manual and I didn't saw any mentioning for a specific type. I did mine (QV!) in: 0.2 - 0.25 and out: 0.3 - 0.35 please tell me it's ok....
Hi Antwan they should be done every 25,000 miles. The exhaust valves are the ones that take a hammering and over time tighten up as they sink themselves into the seats, this closes the clearance and can end up with the valve not closing at all because the tolerance is all gone. This results in the valve burning away followed byloss of compression and then its an engine out head rebuild. There are no syptoms that I know of until its too late, so regular checks are advisable. Hi Bart, I'm getting conflicting info on my exhaust valves at the moment, some say they are fine, others says not, so I will get back to you on that one. Yep Rob, English weather sucks,you just can't plan anything and I've had to virtually marinise the Ferrari to keep the weather out. All the best Bell
So, I've been reading.... Workshop manual Mondial 8 - Mondial QV does make a difference... Mondial 8: in: 0.2-0.25 out: 0.3-0.35 (page: B32) Mondial QV: in: 0.2-0.25 out: 0.35-0.4 (page: B56) I think it was too easy to put both clearances (and in this aspect all differences) together. Damn you .....Dottore ingegnere professore di motore V8 Back to the drawing board for me....
Hi Bart, here it is in the Mondial QV book, sorry Matey :-( However,that said maybe Ferrari did a revision and changed the gap for performance reasons who knows, lets keep on digging. BUT we need conclusive evidence of a change to what the book says or I'm just going with the book. All the best, Bell ;-) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Over in the 308-328 section valve clearences discussion. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328/441667-how-adjust-intake-exhaust-valve-clearances-308-a.html
I have the Mondial 8 manual on pdf on my work-pc (a buddy scanned it); my QV manual is at home. The 8 manual makes it as written in the WorkshopMAnual. I'll doublecheck my QV manual at home. (and for fun all other manuals I have) RTFM has struck again! Edithome: checked qv manual: 0,35-0,40 for exhaust valves. Checked my valve clearance control sheet: exhaust valves are all between tolerances. Hurray: dont need the overdose on shims - everything is ok, except for 1 inlet. Haha, let the games begin! EDIT2: picture is extract from Mondial 8 manual Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hmmm, what's the difference between a blue(ish) Mondial QV manual (like yours) and my white(ish) mondial QV manual bought on fLeabay? Ferrari printing division doesn't give a clue for which market is it for. I've got a Dino 308 GT4 manual with "American Version" written on the front, but I assume there are other markets besides Europe & USofA. just curious... For the fanatici a friend of mine is scanning all my manuals on pdf (mondial8, QV; GBT/GTS turbo, 308 GT4 Dino, 308 GT4 Dino american version, Mondial T and I think also a 308 version...) perhaps we can share knowledge?
Excellent video Bell ! I plan to do a valve clearance at some point but my car is running so good, I'm afraid to mess with her. Cheers [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT3qW16BCqw]Ferrari Mondial Valve Clearances Check - YouTube[/ame]
Hey Soucorp, when were they last done or checked Matey? Guys, thanks for your input here.... As you may or may not know there has been some chat about this subject in the 308-328 section as well. It's said that all these engines run at or are fine at the tighter tolerance on the exhaust valves of 0.30-0.35 and although I'm sure that that may well be totally correct, I know I'm just going to have this seed of doubt that when I am thrashing Kato down the road, that I went against what Ferrari state in the book and WShopManual. I'm just going to have to go with what's stated in both books and that's doing the exhaust valves at 0.35-0.40 It's just peace of mind for me at the end of the day and also I figure that mine are already at 0.30 on the exhaust so have to be done anyway ie they are on the tight side of the tightest set of figures anyway. I just don't want to risk burning the exhaust valves and then be into a bloody rebuild. I'm aiming for 0.38 on the exhaust valves because that puts me well and truely in the safe zone.....If you catch my drift Damn I must be getting old!! All the best, Bell.
I've always set the exhaust at 0.35mm, only because either the shims get me 0.28 or 0.35 anything under 0.3mm is to tight for comfort so I end up using the 0.35mm as the min, with and avg of 0.37mm
Hey Bell, I have no clue when the valve was done last, based on my recent belt change, the old belts looked very good, I could have driven another 20k miles or 3 more years easily, but I changed it anyways. These days, I just don't have the time like I use to with running 2 businesses. But having said that, true to form being a car guy, last weekend, I picked up a sweet 71 Fiat 850 spider sport, super rare, 1 owner, runs, drives, great condition. I have plans to slowly build it up to my liking. Cheers mate, Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes, that lime one really stopped me in my tracks! Gorgeous car and its Bertone styling at its finest! The earlier 850 spider also shares the same headlights as the Lamborghini Miura and that was also a Bertone design. Bell, sorry to take over your thread, I'll post something when I get a chance. Its funny that I love this car now but before I use to think the styling was abit off for me, less desirable than the 124. I did not know the 850 spiders are so rare, the ones left you find are rust buckets and the parts are very hard to find, at least in the US. I was fortunate to find mine from a lady who bought it new in CA back in 1971 and she had kept it in great condition over the 40+ years of ownership. It has a small gas leak somewhere so I plan to pull the rear axle to get to the tank and replace all hoses. Mechanically sound and she runs fine. Brakes will need to be checked, besides that, its all cosmetic changes and new paint! She should look like a million bucks after I get done. Cheers, Mike
Greg, you maybe on to something, lol. On my 28th car since college. All good since my wife knows where Im at and not at the bars! cheers
Ok Guys and Dolls, here's the latest.. My cam covers and plenum are at the powder coaters to be painted matt red and will be back in 2 weeks, Bloody hell!! Anyway there are other things to get on with, I enclose a picture for my engine bay inspiration. I have bought a plating kit to zinc plate in gold and silver factory finish all the injection fuel pipes and other fittings etc. I'm also going to change out my camshaft oil seals which I can either do in situ or remove the shafts. Really it makes no odds to me. Removing would be better but for purposes of the video, I thought that leaving them in would be better for folks wanting to see how to do a seal change. The thing is I'm really doing a cosmetic and mechanical overhaul at the same time and I'm trying to do it in an order that will work for me and work for the videos too. Also I don't want to take too many things appart as it will confuse the viewer and also make fault diagnosis difficult for me should something not work when reasembled. ie. If you only tackle one job at a time you can trace a mistake more easily. Oh and finally...torque wrench! I'm trying to have fun with this and do things that are very accessible, my torque wrench is very, very, very accessible and accurate, I think you are gonna like it, can't wait to show you what I usually use ;-) All the best, Bell. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Bell Not sure it's favourable to remount timing belts - also if their still fine... (o no, not another belt drama queen....) I suggest remove the cams 1 by 1; it's dead-easy for further jobs (changing O-rings, oil seals and changing shims) Even if you trow all the cam caps in a bucket, you'll be able to put them in the right order: they're numered + location has same number. I bought myself 2 torque wrenches last week, 5-40 Nm and 30-150Nm. They are not that expensive and if you use it wisely, they last forever. Interested in the job you'll do with the zinc plating kit. For my Fulvia I had all my bolts, nuts, washers, bushes and all the bigger parts..., sandblasted and zinc plated again. Doesn't cost a fortune, but the pieces are gone for a few weeks...
Hi Bart, I'm binning the belts and after going for a walk today I've decided to remove the cams. However I will try and do the video in a way that it looks like I just changed out the shims.
Good work Bell, I like your inspiration, I'm not that far off on my car. C h e e r s Image Unavailable, Please Login