What is this noise? Any help is appreciated | Page 2 | FerrariChat

What is this noise? Any help is appreciated

Discussion in '348/355' started by drbob101, Aug 24, 2013.

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  1. 308 GTB

    308 GTB F1 World Champ
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    #26 308 GTB, Mar 14, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I had my rear bearing go at Watkins Glen two years ago. All the ball bearings were out of the cage. Man, was that noisy! Fortunately it happened during the last session of the last day.
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  2. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    That guy John is a sharp fella for sure!
     
  3. driveitdaily

    driveitdaily Formula 3

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    Drbob, has your car had any history of a cel for a misfire, in some instances , unburnt fuel will cause a converter to run hotter than normal, the excessive heat can be a cause of the cracked core


    " serenity now "
     
  4. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    I have a couple cels thst I have cleared. Never a sdl. Most recently in conjunction with this cat tattle I had a 4022 and 4032. Cat inerfficiency. Both banks

    I am getting new hyper flows and will evaluate all this after some time to see if cel return. I will now have new headers and new cats with in six months of each other

    I plan on posting some pics tomorrow of my headers. As they are new. The discoloration from heat is more pronounced on the left side side specific cylinders than elsewhere. I would like the brain trust here to evaluate this for any significance.
     
  5. driveitdaily

    driveitdaily Formula 3

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    #30 driveitdaily, Mar 15, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2014
    That cat ineffiency code can slso be the result of unburned exhaust gasses, be careful you don't ruin the new cats from some underlying issue, could be something as simple as needing new plugs or wires ,
    You could possibly have an issue causing higher than normal exhaust gas temps. Was that rattly cat from the same side of the motor as the discolored header? If so you have a bank running rich . Look for bank specific causes such as a maf sensor. Might not be enough to thow a sdl , but enough long term temp increase to damage the cat
    A great tool to help diagnose this can be bouht fairly inexpensive , an infrared thermometer , it has a laser point simply aim it at various points on the exhaust, snd it will give a digital readout of the temp, you could tell if one side is hotter than the other
    " serenity now "
     
  6. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    Yes same side. I want to put those pics upbringings. Haven't taken them yet.

    I would like to delve into this more thoroughly a. I'm starting with new stuff as of now. Any help is appreciated

    I don't want to start a flame war but someone I know nd resiext hads spoken to me about connectors.
     
  7. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
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    Do you mean 0422 and 0432? Causes can be bad down stream O2 sensors, exhaust leaks before cats, bad cats, clogged cats (possible if they are breaking up), bad wiring to O2 sensors, leaking injectors (i.e. running rich as drivedaily said). Were you getting the CELs before or after the headers were replaced?

    As for connectors, I thought you car already had "the treatment".
     
  8. driveitdaily

    driveitdaily Formula 3

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    If you have a discolored header and a failed cat , i would say that bank is running hot, do what i said with a laser temp gauge. Upstream o2 sensors can effect mixture , downstreams only monitor the efficiency of the cat and have no effect on mixture.if you can verify the bank is hot , limited things can cause a whole bank to be hot , like johnk said , connectors , possibly a weak coil pack , a dirty or miscalibrated maf sensor , few things can effect a whole bank. do you have paper air filters or k &n 's , sometimes oil from the gauze in a k &n can cause a dirty maf sensor. Be careful tho , i've seen some cars , notably some fords , and especially escapes , where a misfire can ruin a cat in as little as 5 or 6 miles. Sounds like that is not your case , but just an example , the effect of a misfire can quickly cause problems. but , because of that discolored header , i would say your cat failure may not just be a fluke , there could be an underlying issue. But , its also possible that the loose care was causing some backpressue , in turn causing your bank to run hot , get that temp gauge, put your new cats in and compare temps side to side.
     
  9. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Yup! Funny thing is too many just replace cats calling the oem cat cr@p and replacing headers because the OEM ones are called cr@p. There are better cats and headers but they do not solve the root causes nor will they prevent meltdown if mixture control is left unchecked, for which the 355 is extremely unforgiving being closer to a race engine than a street engine. How many valve guide head rebuilds could be avoided if these cars ran right? One key piece of evidence that convinces me of this pathogenesis is that the death of valve guides etc is random among the fleet and in no relationship to mileage or use. I will go out on a limb and say a factory cat is pretty darn good.
     
  10. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    No I haven't had. "The treatment".

    I just read my post above. Sorry about the typos. Phone, wine and no glasses.

    Yes. 0422 and 0432.

    Right now old cats are back on pending hyper flows which have been ordered. No cel now. Seems to run fine.

    With the heat shields on the headers how can I measure individual cylinder temps?

    Does the system adjust parameters per cylinder or per bank?

    How about faulty injectors?
     
  11. driveitdaily

    driveitdaily Formula 3

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    If you get the laser temp gauge you can aim it at each cylinder header tube. Its a great little tool . Simply aim the red dot . Your cel is not on yet because downstream o2 sensors are not cinstantly monitored, your ecm reads that value at predetermined intervals , when the dtc is detected a number of times, usually 3 , the ecm will them illuminate the cel, its out now , drive it a little and it will come back on i 'm sure. Just curiuos are you around reading, subject to pa enhanced emmissions?


    " serenity now "
     
  12. driveitdaily

    driveitdaily Formula 3

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    #37 driveitdaily, Mar 16, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2014
    Fbb is 100%dead in , there is a reason for header failures other initial build quality. I've seen pictures of severely melted tubes , inducating extreme heat. I also read a tech article years ago concerning header wraps and insulation, and a condition they can cause, they can draw the carbon out of the steel , weakening it and making it more likely to crumble , melt and fail. Probsbly why aftermarket options are not insulated. Ferrari is the only make of car i see with headers insulated , perhaps why the header failure is limted to ferrari. I see other makes with heat cracks , but never a meltdown!
    A rich system would cause the converter to run hot due to unburnt exhaust gasses, but a lean system would cause the headers and whole exhaust system to run hot, the possibilities for the cause are endless, simple things like air filters , injectors or more deeplyrooted , a fuel system that can not keep up, possibly even the initial programming of fuel and timimg curves. Could it be the 355's exhaust diverter and y pipe? Whatever it is the 348 doesn't seem to be affected by it. Why did ferrari go back to 4 valve cylinder heads?

    " serenity now "
     
  13. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    I'm not near Reading John. I do plan on going to the Reading show in May though

    I'm going to get a laser heat thing today and I'll see what I can do with it. As I said the tubes are encased in the heat shield so I'm not sure how specific I can be with it
     
  14. vvassallo

    vvassallo F1 Veteran

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    Forget tne heat shield - that thing works through it. If the cat is hotter by a bunch then I suspect a lean condition on that bank. Typical causes are thermostat if both banks are high. One side high may be a cracked header in the usual place. There are other reasons for those as well and tne 355 brain trust can better make suggestions. Typical for the model though. 355 cats are better than the POS ceramic versions on our 348s.
     
  15. johnk...

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  16. driveitdaily

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    That makes sense. Just a thought ,just pondering if the heat can be inherent to some design factor right from the drawing table. I put decat pipes in my 348 just to reduce engine bay temps just for safe measure, luckily my situation is unique, i'm an inspection mechanic so my car always passes. Wink . Wink . But to answer the question bob, even though theyre insulated you will stiil be able to pinpoint hot spots, and higher values side to side. That will give you an accurate idea as opposed to relying on the factory thermocouples to trigger a sdl.if they are not working properly you can be running hot and not be aware if it


    " serenity now "
     
  17. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    Ok I got the laser temp thing and both sides are basically identical. I hit the two "bumps" on the heat shield which are the first two cylinders from the front under the shield. On the left side the shield is dis colored on those bumps but the temps are the same on each side. I also did the exhaust tube on the top as it leaves the header and again both sides are the same. I had driven the car to get the temp thing and it was idling when I did that.

    I have no codes. , mil is off, 5 inc. sensors and 3 ready.
     
  18. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
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    Bob,

    You will have to drive the car a while before all the monitors become ready. Most likely you just have cats that are on the way out. Damaged do to the ceramic breaking up. Not unusual. here is a link to a pretty good write up on OBD II in general. Discussion of the catalyst monitor is on page 32 of the pdf (labeled page 42 in the text). http://www.lbcc.edu/attc/documents/OBD2.pdf. I think all FChatter would benefit by reading it.
     
  19. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    #44 drbob101, Mar 16, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2014
  20. db4

    db4 Karting

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    I would guess chain tensioner, located under front timing chain cover.
     
  21. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    #46 drbob101, Mar 26, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2014
    [​IMG]

    New cuff links to go on this weekend.
     
  22. ready321now

    ready321now Formula Junior

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    If this is the case, is this a difficult or expensive fix? My 1997 does the same thing....it comes and goes.
    Concerned!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Thanks for any input!!!
     
  23. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    Note what mine ended up being. The left cat was rattling

    I was fairly sure it was coming from the pumpkin until I got it on my lift and it was clear that it was coming from left of the pumpkin not from it. I would suggest getting the car on a lift and listen or have someone listen. It will be clearer where the noise is coming from.

    Also in the beginning my came and went as the car warmed up. Clearly there when cold then go away when warm. After awhile that stopped and it was there all the time. I would think that initially when then cats were cool things rattled and as they warmed and expanded it would cease until things became completely undone in there.
     
  24. ready321now

    ready321now Formula Junior

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    Good feedback...
    I even bought the mechanics stethoscope, but have yet to catch it at the right time. Will prob do it at next cold start-up. Your explanation makes a lot of sense. Did you also notice that sometimes it goes away as soon as you start moving in reverse of forward? Then it comes back at idle when the car is in neutral or the clutch pedal is not pressed?
     
  25. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    I tried the stethoscope. Didn't help

    Yes, it would change , clutch in and out standing in brakes, etc. that I what had me focused in the pumpkin nd clutch bearings


    After one minute in the lift it was clear it wasn't coming from the drivetrain. Get under the car on a lift when it's running and see if it is decidedly left or right of the drivetrain like mine was
     

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