88 328 gts wont get up to temp.help? | FerrariChat
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88 328 gts wont get up to temp.help?

Discussion in '308/328' started by fastcarslowride, Apr 6, 2014.

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  1. fastcarslowride

    fastcarslowride Karting

    May 21, 2012
    50
    #1 fastcarslowride, Apr 6, 2014
    My car won't get above 150 f when cruising and doesn't want to get above 165 f driving around towntown if I am at a long light it will get up to 185 f or 195 f It used to run hotter around 195 f to 200 f . I took the thermostat out and it starts to open at 155 and is fully open by 170 is that normal ? and could that be the reason I am getting a miss that comes and goes ? it seems like it runs better when it is cold out side.
     
  2. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,462
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    #2 yelcab, Apr 6, 2014
    Replace that lazy thermostat.
     
  3. Crowndog

    Crowndog F1 Veteran

    Jul 16, 2011
    7,042
    Fairfield,Pa
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    Robert
    #3 Crowndog, Apr 6, 2014
    +1 but not so sure that miss can be attributed to the bad tstat issue.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  4. nerofer

    nerofer F1 World Champ

    Mar 26, 2011
    12,082
    FRANCE
    #4 nerofer, Apr 7, 2014
    Well, I must say I am fairly conversant "inside my brain" with feet / pounds / ounces / gallons - imperial and american...and there corresponding values being high, low, etc...but I have yet to master the Fahrenheit to Celsius proprortion, my metric brain still can't manage to understand when I am reading Fahrenheit figures if these are hot or cold!
    So it took me a while to convert all these figures...

    Your figure "before and after" seems: too hot for the "figures before", and too cold for the "figures after" to me.

    Both my cars ('89 GTB and '89 GTS) cruise normally a tad below 75°c, which is 165°f.
    I would say 72 to 73°c, but is the gauge that accurate? Nevertheless, the needle is slightly below the 75°c mark in normal cruising, this on both cars.
    Driving in town, the water temperature climbs slowly to the 85° - 90° c mark, (185 - 195 f), before the fans cut in.

    I would say that if your car was cruising normally at 195/200° f, this seems a bit hot to me; besides, the fans should have been in operation at that temp.
    Now 150° f at cruising speed today is a bit low.

    The thermostat is supposed to begin to open at 84°c (= 185° f) according to the owner's manual, and should be fully open at 90°c with the fans turning.

    Rgds
     
  5. JohnnyTS

    JohnnyTS Formula Junior

    Jun 3, 2012
    907
    Pretoria East, RSA
    Full Name:
    John
    #5 JohnnyTS, Apr 7, 2014
    yip, ten to one the thermostat does not fully close or is stuck in open position, if you drive the car hard it should go above 165°f nevertheless and return when cruising again around 165°f (75°C) anycase that's how my 328 behaves.
     
  6. howl

    howl Formula Junior

    Apr 10, 2011
    505
    Chicago/Boca
    Full Name:
    Tom
    #6 howl, Apr 7, 2014
    Agree with Crowndog and yelcab. Had same thing. Replaced TStat (easy on these cars) and it was fixed. Not sure the miss is related - did not have that.
     
  7. JohnnyTS

    JohnnyTS Formula Junior

    Jun 3, 2012
    907
    Pretoria East, RSA
    Full Name:
    John
    #7 JohnnyTS, Apr 7, 2014
    oh I missed the part of the miss, that must be some other problem.
     
  8. PT 328

    PT 328 F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    May 1, 2005
    4,001
    #8 PT 328, Apr 7, 2014
    What are the outside air temp when the coolant temp is providing these readings? You can change the thermostat, it's cheap.

    For the miss I would pull all of the plug extenders and look for any pin sized burn marks on either the inside or outside of the extender. If you find one replace it, if not, report back and we will go to the next step.
     
  9. fastcarslowride

    fastcarslowride Karting

    May 21, 2012
    50
    #9 fastcarslowride, Apr 8, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2014
    The outside temp was around 75 to 80 degrees f . when i was getting those readings the thing is in the morning when i drove it for around twenty miles the temp outside was 20 degrees f cooler and it ran beautiful .I just put new plugs in ,the wires are new the extenders are not very old I checked them they look good . I do have a extra one I was thinking of checking each cylinder with it to see if that helps .a few years back I did change them out because there where some bad ones . I did take the t stat out it starts to open at 155 f and is fully open by 165 f. when I was driving it the other day as long as the temp was below 180 f tit had the sputter, then when it got up to 180 or higher it ran much better I still think there might be something else other than just the tstat. Does anyone have the part number on the tstat and the cross numbers for it . mine says k7 75 I have called a few places and nobody can cross these numbers . and also where to get a reasonably priced one. Thanks
     
  10. Crowndog

    Crowndog F1 Veteran

    Jul 16, 2011
    7,042
    Fairfield,Pa
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    Robert
    #10 Crowndog, Apr 8, 2014
    The 75 might mean 75 Celsius which is 167 Fahrenheit as opening temp?


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  11. fastcarslowride

    fastcarslowride Karting

    May 21, 2012
    50
    #11 fastcarslowride, Apr 12, 2014
    Changed out the t stat bled it and got up to temp that part is fine . as far as the miss I still have it . I checked the extenders and they all look good does anyone know what the ohms should be on them. I have been dealing with this miss for a while it will drive fine for a while then it will just start up . so I started to look around the hoses for the exhaust or anything else that might cause a vacuum leak. The little plastic cut off valve on top of the block, drivers side , the one that looks like a egr valve.I pulled the little hose off and the hole was completely plugged with black soot I picked out what I could and I also noticed that one of the hose clamps on one of the exhaust hoses was loose so I tightened that up. But didn't notice a change . the thing is after I put new plugs in it drove beautiful . that was when it was cool out also. Then when I started it up later in the afternoon to drive home it started the miss again . any other ideas? Also does anyone know of a alternative to part #147390 that cut off valve maybe I could find it for a better price if it was used on a different car ?
     
  12. fastcarslowride

    fastcarslowride Karting

    May 21, 2012
    50
    #12 fastcarslowride, Apr 12, 2014
    Did not find any pin marks or other burns do you know what the ohms should be? I also wrote down below
     
  13. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Nov 29, 2001
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    San Carlos, CA
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    Mitchell Le
    #13 yelcab, Apr 12, 2014
    Back to basic:

    Spark plugs (checked)
    Extenders
    Wires to be replaced if burned out, hardened, or just old
    Distributor replaced if cracked
    Rotors replaced if burned
    Protection relay
    See if you can isolate the misfire by using a timing light
     
  14. conan

    conan Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2011
    389
    #14 conan, Apr 12, 2014
    I did not have any issues with misfiring, but I had to fix an oil leak at the rear distributor and decided to check the spark plugs and wiring. The leads measured very differently from maybe a few kohm to infinity. Since I just did a DC-measurement, "infinity" does not mean there is no connection at all. At high voltages, there can still be a fairly good connection.

    Anyway, I removed all leads from the distributors and verified that the connections were all measuring good on reassembly. I think it makes much sense to do this on 20+ year old spark leads.
     
  15. PT 328

    PT 328 F1 Rookie
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    May 1, 2005
    4,001
    #15 PT 328, Apr 12, 2014
    I agree. Since you recently changed the plug wires are they all secure at the coils, distributor, and plug end? If so, is the frequency valve buzzing when the miss is noted (protection relay issue?)
     
  16. fastcarslowride

    fastcarslowride Karting

    May 21, 2012
    50
    #16 fastcarslowride, Apr 12, 2014
    I put new wires on recently,rotors cap everything on electrical looks good new plugs a few days ago when I pulled the egr valve / cut off valve hose off the hole was completely plugged with carbon when I get home today I Will clean it and see if that makes a difference. I looked up the symptoms of a bad cut off valve and it OS exactly what I am experiencing when thruster stuck open . I will report back later this evening . If anyone knows any little tricks for cleaning that part . Let me know it would.be greatly appreciated. Or if they know of a reasonably priced aftermarket one thanks
     
  17. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,462
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    #17 yelcab, Apr 12, 2014
    What is a cut-off valve? There is no EGR valve in a 328. There are 2 one-way valve from the air filter housing to the to exhaust ports that are meant to route some clean air into the exhaust to help burn off the excess fuel at start up. They can be totally removed, plugged off and would not make a bit of difference.
     

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