348 TS 1994 model flat battery, correction and prevention tips please

I think you might be in the UK which doesn't affect much apart from the immobiliser which may not be recognised elsewhere - try Google as an alternative

A decent trickle charger would be a good idea just install the tail so its readily accessible

Not sure why the jump did not work - unless the battery is totally dead and/or you failed to trigger the immobiliser ie at what stage would it not start ?

There may well be previous hints here (try a search - often helps) or at My Ferrari 348

The start-up question is probably answered in the owners manual too but I guess the usual answer for many is when the temp gauge begins to move

 

Hello Aidan,
Contrary to what you may read here; my experience is that that a properly-sorted 348 should NOT drain battery over the extended periods of time. You, simply put, have a current drain. Use an inductive current probe over the "+" battery and see what it is and see what it is - mine was over 0.5A before I found out that the mouse belt ECUs were causing the leak. Trickle-charger is often used as a band-aid. It is still a good idea to use for extended periods of inactivity but not if you have a problem where the battery goes flat in 2 weeks.

 

Hi Aiden

Welcome to the Brotherhood.

I also am not much of a mechanic but i do have a 1994 348 and encountered the same problem that you did. The first thing you have to do is determine whether your battery can be saved or whether you have to replace it. If it can be saved after you have had it fully charged, have a mechanic or do it your self wire up by the switch a terminal where you can attach a battery tender. Do not use a trickle charger on all the time because if left on too long it can ruin your battery. I also found that if I leave the car with the switch on the battery will go dead in 2 weeks. It has been over a year since I started using the battery tender and I have had no problems at all. Goood luck.

Mel

 

Youre right, the battery is accessible by removing a small panel , in the wheel arch to the front of the passenger side front wheel.

I've not tried, but it <might> be possible with a really stubby screwdriver (or a drill driver bit in some pliers) to remove the panel without removing the wheel - but it'd be a struggle.

And it does sound like something is draining, I'd look first at the aftermarket alarm systems you have on it.

 

Alden, I've got a CTEK charger and if you look at the photos on their site it comes with bulldog clips and leads with ring terminals on. MXS 5.0

I use the bulldog clips at the back of the car. I just find its easier to get access to as I usually drive in to the garage and reverse out. If you need it will take a picture later?

 

Mine had been already done when I bought the car and I dont know where they had connected the wire to. It is by the switch and has about a 8 foot lead. Sorry i cant be of more help to you . I just know it works .

 

Couldnt resist a quick trip to my garage.

First pic is the panel I was talking about earlier. Still not sure if its removable with the wheel on. I think it <might> be, but its held on with self tappers and if one's rusty....

Second pic is just for reference when it comes to poking cables through. The 4 holes are for the headlight pod, but you can thread up through behind that to where the fuse box is, and from there, anywhere you like in the front compartment, under the carpet.

Finally, my car on its "umbilical" LOL. I plug in at the back becuase as I've said , I generally drive into the garage. (Though when I wired the garage I put a socket at each of the 4 corners just in case) I did have grand plans to leave the cables in the car, and wire something permanent on the car, but its just easy to plug in direct each time, plus it means I can use the charger on my other car if needed..
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