So, I while back I purchased a new key (cut from the factory), the retrieval of my original PIN, and a set of 3 FOB's. 1) The key is fine. 2) I did not realize that the FOB's don't come programmed (apparently not a big issue). 3) The PIN I received does not work. The dealer tech believes the PIN is not the original, but a new PIN that came with the 3 FOB's. The service manager does not agree with the tech. I'm 99% confident the immobilizer was never replaced but I can't prove that. So, I'm now between a rock and a hard place. My question is: With a new PIN, can I remotely program the ECU to accept it and allow me to start the car using the PIN number and key - essentially replacing the old PIN with the new PIN? If so, I could care less about the original PIN. I planned to PM Terry Phillips but he does not accept PM's.
You need the PIN that is now programmed in the car to initiate the learn process. If you do not have it, it can be provided at substantial extra cost. Beware, their records are not infallible and you may just pay for an incorrect PIN. The PIN that came with the fobs is the new one, not the existing one. They really should have explained all this prior to taking your money.
Brian, I asked for, and ordered the ORIGINAL PIN. But, I don't think that's what I received. I ordered all 3 items at the same time so when I say I received a PIN with the FOB's, it was all together.
+1000 Have done the procedure myself and as Brian said. Basically put in old pin the light on dash does something then I think red fob first, then black fobs. If you do a search its in here Terry, tazandjan or whatever his handle is did a very good post on subject. Once you know pin you can start car without any fob by entering the pin through a series of ignition on and off sequences. It's quite complicated.
As Brian said they should have never taken your money and you could have tested the old pin first to see if it works.
Dave the package you received most likely is a new pin that's what I got when you get the kit. Just did a search and realize you already know all this sorry.
I think this entire alarm thing is really stupid but I will defend Ferrari for a moment.. Ferrari tried very hard to keep all this straight but the dealers F'd it all up. Remote sets have been getting replaced regularly since 1996. Cars change hands, fobs get lost etc and in all this the owners were really terrible about keeping track of the pins. It was after all their responsibility. Ferrari got tired of supplying original PINs for free which they did for years and eventually started charging for them. When new remotes were ordered they were assigned a VIN and that was recorded at Ferrari. Well customer A ordered a set and it is registered to his car. He has not been in to claim them when customer B (a really good customer) comes in and needs new fobs. Customer A's fobs get installed to customer B's car and in a couple of weeks when B's fobs show they get installed in A's car. I saw it all the time and that is what happened to the record keeping system. It was doomed to fail because Ferrari was the only one trying to keep it straight.
Brian, I agree and just sent the document Terry Philips created to my dealer. After your comment and reading Terry's excellent document, it's clear I should have received 2 PINS, the original and the new. Your help is greatly appreciated!
I'm the 3rd owner of my car. The first only had it for 2 years. The 2nd owner drove it 3300 miles in 12 years. I'm very certain the ECU has never been changed or my dealer would have been the one more than likely. I need to see if the factory painted the bolts - that will tell if it's ever been removed...
That's a good point but I think the fact that I only received one PIN with the order would be pretty clear it's a new one and not the original.
Guys, MY ORIGINAL PIN WORKS!!!!! Turns out I was not cranking the car enough for it to start and I thought the LED was supposed to go out but it in fact stays on steady when the code is entered!! I can now reprogram the ECU to accept my new PIN and new FOB's
Guys, MY ORIGINAL PIN WORKS!!!!! Turns out I was not cranking the car enough for it to start and I thought the LED was supposed to go out but it in fact stays on steady when the code is entered!! I can now reprogram the ECU to accept my new PIN and new FOB's
That's very good news. Where did you get the original PIN? Did you have it all along or did they get it for you?
They actually sent it to me when I ordered it but did not realize I had it because they just print an order label and hand write it on it. I always suspected it was it but a guy from FNA confirmed it. I also just realized I was trying this when my battery was on the way out which is another reason it likely did not work. What a relief! Solving the mystery of what could have happened is a load of my mind for sure.
Ketel is having this same exact problem. It would be good for him if you post the exact sequence of events so that he can program his board to receive his new PIN and new FOB. He can start the car with the old PIN, just can't change it.
Will do Mitch. I do know for a fact that there are 2 different immobilizers. Mine will allow the car to crank without disarming, other will not crank at all.
Dave did not realize two dif I mobilizers is this fact from first hand experience. Is it on all models or some and what years. Just wondering?
Grant here is the facts that I know: My 98 will crank but not start with the immobilizer armed. Bob's 97 will not crank nor start with the immobilizer armed.
They went back and forth on that even on the 360 and other later cars. It's not a case of different immobilizers, it is a case of the way the cars were wired. Some isolate the starter and some just isolate the Motronic.
Yes, it's complicated and something of a nightmare. As I relayed on other threads, I know what the OLD pin is, I ordered a new key ($300), and new fobs, ($700) but they will not pair to the ECU no matter how many times I follow the procedure that others have described. I've probably tried it 50 times now. Nothing. So, for the last 3 months I have been starting my 355 with the annoying key click sequence. Yes, 3 months. Each time I start up the engine after turning the key off because if you turn off the engine for more than 30 seconds or so the immobilizer is re-armed (whether you want it or not). Real fabulous piece of Ferrari engineering this immobilizer. It works only to keep the owners out of their own cars. Burglars will just flat bed your Ferrari away if they want it that bad.
Ah yes, I too just joined the F355 Immobilizer Charlie Foxtrot Club after a battery change that I have trying to find the time for, for the past 2 months. I'm having issues getting the car to accept my factory pin (which has has 3 zeros, lucky me). BTW, my 1998 will NOT crank with the immobilizer activated. I rather doubt the PO changed the pin, as the car came with only one Black (slave) remote. I have a new set of remotes ready to re-program my ECU, if I can get the ECU to accept my original code. I'll figure it out.
Well let me know if and when you do. Taking the vehicle to the dealer for something as stupid and niggling at this really chaps my butt. ketel
