355 wont crank over.

I switched the P relay with another relay that was the same part number. no luck there so far. I would tend to think the battery is fine because it's less than a year old and the headlights are working fine. Who knows? Is there a possibility I shorted out my starter or alternator?

 

Thank you for this informative response...maybe I am getting closer to solving this problem....perhaps I shorted the starter or something? Is there a specific fuse for this....I didn't see a fuse for this in the shop manual, or did I miss it? Perhaps wiring in the camera is the culprit, but I am not sure why it would do that, given that I grounded it well, I would think. In any case, I disconnected the power to the camera and monitor.

If I get the car up on jack stands, can I access the starter motor? God I wish I had a lift. I suppose I should find out where to place the jack stands, though I doubt the manual would tell me that. any help on where to place them?

Thanks guys!

Anyone have any idea what a starter motor cost? Maybe I can look it up on Ricambi.

 

Hi, thanks for the idea....but others said to NOT have the ignition key turned forward while rocking the car....I figured bump-starting it would be the same thing no? Key forward, releasing the clutch etc? What would the procedure be? Key forward, roll, release the clutch in 2nd? Thanks in advance. Appreciate the feedback.

 

Well, when I disarm the alarm. ...rear light on the dash goes out...which means it is ready to go, I believe. So I would tend to think it is not the immobilizer.

 

thanks for the feedback. I have someone with a portable jumper who's coming over today.in addition on bringing a friend who is very knowledgeable about cars and we are going to go over as many things as possible. as for the location I am about 45 minutes south of you in the Toms River area. Would love to meet up sometime and go for a drive! Been looking for someone in New Jersey who has Ferrari...!

 

THANKS FOR ALL OF THE HELP GUYS!!!!

I checked the slip-on connector to the starter motor. The metal connector was broken. I crimped a new connector on, and the car fired right up.
Now it makes a lot of sense why it wasn't even cranking. Thanks Bobdzar. Nice 355 btw.

Also, since I found a blown fuse for the air pump, I had never heard this new whining noise at start-up. I am glad it is now working....but unfortunately I think this might have had an impact on the left manifold, since the air pump is there to balance exhaust gases upon start-up. Just a guess.

I did not really want to drive my car until I rectify the manifold problem, but I wanted to get her back home in the garage, and out of my friend's driveway. I HATE leaving it outside.

SO....the left side manifold sounds louder than the right one now. As it was cooling off from a 10 minute ride, I heard a loud "clank"....I guess it was the crack coming back together and shifting upon cool-down. Just a guess.

I still have a check engine light. And a slow down light right from start-up...so my CEL issues are back. The Ferrari mechanic said he cleaned the connections to the ECU for the thermos...and that made the CEL and SDL go away. Two days before I saw the check-engine light come back on, the SDL came back, and is still present at start-up, but always goes away when the car warms up. Perhaps the connectors re-connect when the engine-bay heats up?

If you have the time, respond; I am not expecting you all to answer every single question. These are just some things I am wondering about. This car is quite important to me, to say the least. Thanks to all of you for helping me to solve this. You guys rock! Hope this thread saves someone a lot of BS. Check those fuses, and check that connection to the starter motor, connected to the pumpkin in the rear, visible from the engine bay.

Ok, here goes, now that I am driveable again:

1.What do you guys think about my CEL/SDL issues?? I am going to buy an OBD 2 tonight. I still CANNOT FIND THE PORT UNDER THE DASH< DRIVER'S SIDE.

2. Do you recommend repair or replacement of the manifold(s)? I was thinking of Fabspeed or Nouvalari.

3. Starting/ Driving the car with the manifold issue: Horrible idea or not to worry?

4. Will doing an ECU reset do anything for the CEL/ SDL? Or should I leave it be... so the codes don't reset and disappear for the OBD 2?

5. Is replacing the manifolds myself a bad idea if I am not a tech? I am handy with a wrench. I am in a huge cash crunch now with this manifold issue. I could save $800 or $1000 shop time if I do it myself....but don't want to screw anything up!

6. Why would my car hesitate/stumble upon acceleration? Can the cracked header make the car do this? Perhaps it was the back-up camera. At the time, the heat, fog lights, headlights, stereo and camera/ monitor were all on. I thought it was a voltage issue. Maybe its an air/ fuel issue? Or maybe the loose starter connection could cause issues with the electrical system? Baffled.

So many things to sort, but there's nothing like a 355.

-Brian

 

Ok here are my odb2 codes. I have a CEL that just happened 3 drives ago, and an SDL that is present at start-up. The SDL goes away after the car warms up.

1448
1445
0410-This was probably a code because the fuse to the air pump was blown. I replaced it with a 15A but just read I should throw a 20 amp in there.

Would any of the codes be related to the cracked LH manifold? What do these codes tell you guys? Thanks again for all of the help... -Brian