The Ultimate "Sticky interior fix" experiment

Yes. it's right here within my restoration thread on page 11 and 12:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=341922&page=11

If you need the instruction on how to pull the dash, I followed Jay's instructions which were very helpful to me right here:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319220

 

I just sprayed it and scrubbed it with a toothbrush, no soaking or waiting. I initially intended to let it sit for a while before scrubbing it, but as soon as I sprayed it, the gunk started coming off with the touch of my finger. NO need to scrub very hard at all. It did take about 3-4 applications.

 

Just wondering, did you use the multi-purpose or the super strength?

 

The bottle says both super strength and multi-purpose.

 

Inspired by the two threads, I pulled my parts out and refurbished. Fairly easy but I did not like the finish of plasti-dip. I could not get it right so I used a satin finish.

 

Hi. I was wondering what technique was used to paint the switch casings particularly in between the actual crevice between the bottom of the switch and top of casing without over spraying the switch as it is a glossy black with no problems......thanks in advance...

 

If you want the best match to the OEM gloss level then I would suggest Krylon Semi-Flat black lacquer. Spray Paints | MSCDirect.com

Make sure to get the lacquer, not the Rust Tough Enamel.

 

thank you. But, my question was more about how than what...:>)

 

With my current project being the interior of my 2000 360 Spider, this thread has become my new home! Thanks for all the forum Q and A, it's been very helpful.

Some updates/comments/questions:
After much searching, it appears that treedee's recommended Krylon Outdoor Spaces textured black spray paint is no longer being made. Can anyone else confirm this? I just can't find it! I may have to settle for the Rustoleum/Tremclad.

I'm using the treedee's recommend SEM 15243 satin black with excellent results on most plastic and metal surfaces.

I haven't touched my interior door handles, but they're up next. The textured/satin combination finish is what I'm likely to use (that's why I'm trying to find the Krylon textured spray!).

Does anyone know a source for the "< LOCK" decals on the 360 interior door handles?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John

 

John, I don't have any info for you in regards to the availability of the paint. However, I must tell you that the reason I did so much research and testing was to achieve the same finish as the ricambi hvac panel cover replacement.

I just cannot stand looking at 355 interiors where that finish is different than the rest of the center console/dash. I guess it's an anal-ocd obsession with consistency troughout that inspired all the time I spent on it.

I like the finish, I like the texture and it's very durable so I am happy. But I would not have done all this if it wasn't for that panel because frankly all the other finishes seemed just as good.

So unless you're trying desperately to match something in your 360's interior, don't go nuts trying to find the exact same paint, they're all pretty much the same.

 

Not seen this thread before, good work!

Quick question - did any of the exterior grade textured paints you trialed have a texture similar to the texture of the targa roof panel?

I have some dints (caused by the seat screws) that need adressing, but dont want to sand flat.

 

Can't say....I haven't seen a targa top up close

 

Texture and "dint" in the photo below.

(5p coin is approx 18mm (0.7") diameter) Dint caused by previous custodians allowing the roof to "rattle about" when stored in the car against screws in the back of the seat.
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Great post!!! I cant wait to start the process you have lined out on my 348 this weekend.

 

Try using Grease Lightning cleaner instead of the Easy Off, I haven't tested it but several fchatters have said it works better.

 

I haven't used easy off, but I did just do my driver side window switches using Greased Lightening, a tooth brush, and Plasti-dip primer & plasti-dip black. Looks perfect and has the same surface feel as the originals.

 

I found the plasti dip to be less resistant to heat and it did scratch easily and may be prone to peeling. Plus it does not match the hvac panel so I'm not a fan of plasti dip when it comes to a finish for sticky parts but many others have used it and they're happy.

I'm also concerned with the durability of it. my recipe makes for a hard finish that does not damage easily.

 

You used the plasti-dip primer first? With just plain black plasti-dip, I found the same as you did mentioned above.

 

no primer...wasn't available in spray format so I didn't bother

 

Primer makes all the difference with Plasti Dip. My interior door handles have held up to about 3 years of use. I love that it maintains the original feel and texture. At the time it was only available by the quart, so I bought an HVLP gun to shoot it. Now you can order it in spray cans.

I shot my Ricambi heater-control overlay panel with plasti-dip primer and clear plasti-dip, in order to make the entire interior consistent and feel original. The clear Plasti-dip is more fragile though. Impacts from sharp objects will create light spots.
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I found Plast-dip primer used first makes a big difference to the adherence of the top coat. I also find mixing from the can with Plast-dip thinner applied with a gun gives the best finish.

You can also use Plast-dip clear over the HVAC panel to give the same feel as the other panels. I obtained a brand new HVAC OEM panel that fits onto the unit and that was the same finish as the aftermarket ones available. A coat of clear Plasti-dip provided the right finish.
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I have the same problem as everyone else seems to have with their 355:s. Anyhow, I tried a shortcut to get rid of the sticky surface. I sprayed black matte shrink paint over a sticky surface (after disassembling of course), as that paint gives some kind of a light rough structure. Worked very well and I did not spend anytime on removing the sticky ****. Did of course not this on the buttons as I don't want to loose the symbols. There I did it the hard way instead.

 

Is plasti dip primer clear? I assume it must be or how else would you spray your HVAC overlay without obscuring the markings?

 

You guys do some nice work. Paint work looks very nice.

 

I had already repaired my sticky parts but was not happy with the result. Followed your post and redid them. They came out perfect.
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