Can someone identify this connector ?

Does it go to the water pump for the heater? The pump that controls the amount of water entering the heater core.

 

This is a 348 (and RHD) which is similar - its not the cable near the 2 green relays is it?
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Not 100% sure but I thought it was to do with the heating/aircon

Bit difficult to tell but look on here - I suspect its the wire that goes under the main blower unit

http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partTable.asp?M=1&Mo=434&A=2&B=23736&S=

 

LAter 355s had the air horn pump mounted right in there, next to the water reservour. ALso, later 355s had the factory CD changer mounted in that same location. I think that may be the connector for the either. If you dont have a working horn, thats a dead giveaway its for the horn.
THe CD changer wires are running seperate from teh main wiring harness and is easy to pull them thru the firewall.

LEt me know what you find.

 

I wouldnt have thought the air horn compressor needs a 4 core cable.. but I am puzzled what that semi circular bracket is for just behind the connector in the photo - its about the right diameter for the compressor (if its the same size, from memory, as the one on my 348 - not that it sits there, it sits out of shot beneath the photo below the washer bottle)

 

Looks like the plug used to connect with a component/assembly that was mounted into that 'now vacant' semi-circle bracket. The bracket looks standard so someone on here must have it on their car, with component xyz still in place and connected?

 

Just looking at your pic again - there air con dryer is missing! LOL

I know its a 348 pic but its most probably the plug for that
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Good detective work, Jeff.

 

On the back of the pods themselves.
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and the loom on mine (RHD 348) emerges from near the wing..
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Not to highjack the thread but what brand are those screwdrivers in the back round? They look neat and I'm a sucker for interesting tools.

 

Their electricians screwdrivers made by CK. (Rated to somethink like 1000V) I like them because I can keep them on a hook in my garage, in their case - so I know where they are (and the lid is handy for storing screws when removing them)

No probs. In my experience the headlights can be a pig to refit - well, mine were - so if your real issue is checking you've got power to the lift motors I'd be tempted to see if I could fish the connectors up (with the lights up) , or down from under the bumper rather than remove the lights , or try and fish them through the back of the pod with the lamps removed (the manual describes how to remove the lamps, its awkward, but doable, though use masking tape on painted surfaces as its tight) - but only with the warning that they are very awkward to reconnect too.

In fact, such was the proliferation of Anglo Saxon language most unsuitable for polite company in my garage when refitting the headlight pods I'd much sooner remove the front bumper (as I have in the photo above) to gain access to the headlight connectors. Maybe thats defeatist, but its what I'd do for the sake of any neighbours/small children with a weak disposition within earshot.

Also.. additional warning - sheesh are they powerful motors. Be very very careful with fingers and think through the consequences of them closing when you accidentally restore power when you least expect it!

 

No, the manuals arent brilliant. (Can I assume you've been here All Ferraris and got the user manual and workshop manual ?)

Actually removing the light units (glass parts) is in the owners manual, but its simply a matter with the headlights raised of, removing the shroud at the front, (4 screws) then releasing some clips and then the unit can be withdrawn - but it is a bit tight. (see the photo below - there are about 3 clips per side, you just need to prise the side arm away then pull the light unit - owners manual page L8 describes this)

To remove the pod, if look at my picture in post 15 there are four slightly elongated holes on the bulkhead - 2 are bolts into the pod, are 2 are studs from the pod - they are all thats holding the pods in.
(if you look at my picture on post 14 I'd screwed the fixings back in, to avoid loosing them - you can also see the packers/spacers - aluminium E shapes that are used to adjust alignment of the pod. Cant remember if they are 12 or 13mm)

For a UK car, to gain access to the pod fixings, on the drivers side you need to remove the washer bottle (easy) and on the passenger side, you need to remove the fuse box - but only unbolt it (2No. I think they are 6mm nuts) there is enough slack on the cabling to move it far enough out of the way so you dont need to disconnect anything.

When you come to refit - its a bit of a dilemma - I fitted the pods back empty, this makes them lighter, easier to hold in position and easier to adjust for line and level because there are just better hand holds (especially if working on your own). But, this meant I had to refit the glass units with the pods insitu, which is paint scratchingly tight. Horses for courses. If I ever do it agian, I'd refit with the glass units in first and find a willing assistant to help with the weight.

And again if I could repeat my warning about the motors closing up the pods when you least expect it - I'd twist the battery switch for defo! (and might even be worth perusing the owners manual for which are the lift motors fuses/relays and pulling them)
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