Do you think this because of the suspension warning indicator and the fact that all actuators initialize at power-up but do not rotate when using the sport switch? Because so far this is the only thing I see as a potential difficult issue to resolve. Everything else that I mentioned I'm not surprised by and know can be easily corrected, as I intended to need new headers and y-pipe, I intended to re-cover the dash if necessary, I know that the door handles snap on these cars, etc., etc. A good compression test report next week and $40k should be a good buy for this GTB unless the suspension warning issue turns out to be some crazy electrical gremlin that can't be traced and resolved.
If the actuators and shock gears are all fine it could be a faulty g sensor or the ecu connection not getting information from the speed sensor or g sensor.
Thank, You Once again... I'm certain I'll be sending the purchase balance once the compression test comes back positive. I was really hoping to get some feedback on what I found pertaining to the suspension electronics. I've asked my friend Karl Try (Europeanroadandracing) on this board to chime in... but he may just call me instead I'm already making arrangements to sort out the rest. I'll make this thread a photo-journal of the car's progress as well.
G sensor?? As in g-force? You'll have to help me out with that one. Where is this g sensor? As far as the speed sensor is concerned, the speedometer worked without flaw, so at least the speed sensor is good.... Doesn't mean the signal is reaching the shock ecu, however. Thanks!
My car has a similar suspension issue - all 4 actuators test themselves and I have no broken gears on the shocks or on the actuators, but the warning light stays on... Don't know what to do actually. As for a 60K miles car - I don't consider this as a veru big mileage if the car has been serviced correctly.
Interesting. This car has the exact same symptoms. Have you not had a diagnostic performed by your Ferrari service center? Certainly they can answer this mystery? I'm just trying to get some ideas as to what could be the issue prior to purchasing.... Though I doubt it will deter me.
I live in Bulgaria and we don't have a Ferrari dealer The only difference on mine is that when I switch to comfort mode, the warning light goes off, but the "comfort mode" light doesn't show up.
Guess maybe I need more 355 education, but isn't this alone saying walk away? By "blown" I assume you see a hole or hear gas coming out of them. I would be concerned the engine was sucking little bits of metal back in.
The g-force sensor is on the front of the car. It is behind the front bumper mounted to the metal that is the front side of the boot area. The g-force sensor isn't super complex. It is looking for gforce of above .3 in all 4 directions. So if you brake or accelerate at above .3 g's it stiffens up the front or rear. Same thing with left to right. When is sense above .3 g's left or right it stiffens up the outside shocks. I was thinking the same thing, but that is why you do a compression test. If it comes back good just replace the headers before it ever runs again.
No, no walking away for blown headers.... unless my compression test comes back negative. I've not had an F355 that the headers lasted much past 30,000 miles, so I knew these would be blown if they were stock. I did the oil smear on the oil filter test. After the test drive, there were fiberglass fibers stuck to the oil filter. Fabspeed will resolve this issue nicely. On my previous F355s I've gone with Fabspeeds headers and y-pipes.... no issues.
Hopefully were talking part 4 and not part 1 Ferrari F355 M5.2 (1996+) Parts : Table 143 - ELECTRICAL BOARDS AND DEVICES - FRONT PART If it's this at all.
For the money, can't go too wrong if compression is good. I like cars that need the clean up. Makes you enjoy it more when you rub it out and have it shining like new!
I couldn't agree more. I've not had something that I needed to "turn wrenches on" in a while. I'm looking forward to removing the sticky parts, removing the dash, resolving the suspension error, correcting the paint and cleaning up the engine bay. The desired end-result and job-well-done is always the repayment and gratification for me whether we're talking cars or not.
Agree! It's funny though, I had a 2006 MB E55 and read the forums *****ing about blown air shocks, sc clutch packs going bad, loosing fuel on cylinder 8,blah blah blah, I never had an issue with mine. I serviced it and did not abuse it. This forum is horrible when it comes to 355s. Some people on here are so negative it's sad. I say buy it, do your thing and enjoy it.
Abacus Racing is performing the compression test on Wednesday. I'll post results for feedback. Thanks.
+1 Every forum is like that though, people rarely start threads to proclaim how well their car is running. Take my fathers 355GTS (for sale in the classifieds...) Other than small issues that come up on every car (thermostat, temp sensor, CV boot) it's been solid as a rock and he does drive it. IMO it's the little things that benefit all cars, like do not start the engine unless you plan on driving it to full warm up (my father has always been very anal about this with every car). Take it easy until all the temps are optimal etc.... A little bit goes a long way, especially with cars like the 355 that are not daily drivers for most owners.
Couldn't agree more. Genyosai, if you buy the car, please post if you have sorted the suspension problem. Just tested mine today - the actuators test themselves at startup, but they don't move when putting the switch from "sport" to "comfort". Same symptoms as on the car you are considering to buy.
So cylinder #6 has a problem. I suspect this could be because the blown, stock headers are about 23,000 miles overdue for replacement?? Burnt valve? Bent valve? Bad rings? I'd already made a list of everything I intended to do to it to bring it back up to par. My list came close to $20k, but didn't include going into the engine. Anyone looking for a project car? It's still available. The owner called me today asking me tons of questions about the car then finally ended the 35 minute call with "make me an offer... don't be afraid you'll insult me". Then says he'll call me tomorrow for my offer. What would you guys do? In all honesty I'm really "switched off" at this point. Just wasn't looking to do any engine-internal work. Was just wondering, however, if any of you had a different perspective... especially considering his comment on making him an offer without fear of insult. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ouch... I don't think anyone can fault you for bailing. With this news, you're just about up to the price of a good car just in repairs. It's a good thing you did things the right way and PPI-ed that sucker.
Yeah. I actually carried 2 qts of oil with me for the test drive. I let the car warm up and idle while I removed the engine bay covers to check for "green epoxy" cat ecu's and other things I know to look for like leaky shocks, broken shock gears, broken shock actuator gears, etc. Then shut the car off and checked the oil.... the stick was dry. It took 1.5 qts to bring to level. After that I smeared some oil onto the oil-filter and we went for a drive. When we got back to the lot, I checked the oil-smear for fiberglass.... it was there. This is what made me hold on to the big check, give them the smaller $1k check ($2k total at this point) as a sign of my seriousness, then ask for a compression test. When I got the results from Abacus, I immediately called the dealer and told them I wasn't interested and to kindly refund my deposits. Then I got the call from the owner asking me what could he do to get me to buy. When he calls tomorrow I'll kindly let him know again that I'm no longer interested, and to refund the deposits. I hope I'm not met with continued negotiations. Sell it to me for $18k..... that might be another story But of course we know that's not happening.
Unfortunately, it sounds as though you (we!) have stumbled across a true victim of deferred maintenance. A shame, really. 3 pedal Berlinettas are so choice. I shudder to think what else may be lurking underneath, but there may be a chance you could get a screaming deal. The cat is out of the bag now, so they either hang on to it and wait for someone uninitiated to stumble across it (dealer seems pretty upfront, so I don't know) or do what it takes to move the car as is.
OK, but put it this way - if you take the car really cheap, you can strip the engine for a major service and a valve guide job and in the mean time you can also check the heads and the valves and fix the existing problem. It will cost a little bit, but after that you will have a bullet proof engine.
After the PPI, I feel vindicated....there are some cars that you shouldn't even bother with a PPI. Hope you get your deposit back with no hassle.....never works for me though, there's always a catch.
