Gang, Yes, I've got a torn CV boot. Thankfully, it still looks like the joint itself has not been compromised, so I really just need to get a new boot on. ASAP. From the research on these threads, even without replacing the whole joint, this looks like a messy job involving 4-10 hours, airtools, 4-post lifts and a fully outfitted garage, all of which I do not possess. So, any workarounds out there to get on a new boot? Alternatively, any jerry-rig or ghetto-fix solutions to patch up that torn boot until I can get a new one on? The last mechanic that took a look said there were no temp fixes, but I can't imagine that some well-placed duct tape or electrical tape couldn't buy me some time here. Thoughts and input? ketel
11 CEL codes, stolen key and fob retrieval of codes Still can't program the new fobs and now CV boot. Life is always fun in a 355, isn't it?
Lol!! 4-10 hours plus air tools plus a lift plus an out fitted workshop . No doubt information given by members who have never done it. It can easly be done from the floor and with coffee breaks maybe two to three hours. The rubber bellows are cheap enough to, and the kits can come with new grease. Its a relatively easy job mate. Oh and you can always wear your Ferrari base ball cap back to front for that Ghetto feel
I did a ghetto fix on one of my CV boots about five years ago. Got a universal boot off e-bay for about $20. It came with grease and glue and cable ties. Cut the old one off. The kit had to be trimmed to the correct size at both ends. The kit came with a split seam which was put in the correct position and then glued. Cable ties fixed it tight. It lasted a year before I trashed the clutch on a hill climb day - that was the start of my concours rebuild. The ghetto fix was a great fast (15 minutes) fix that cost peanuts. Well worth a try if you want to buy some time.
Ketel; If you are OK with a short term fix, we could knock out a proper CV Boot change at the (looks to be) September Stoogefest gathering (Stoogeapalooza). I'm fresh off changing mine and have all the proper and necessary tools in hand. With a few hands involved, it shouldn't take more than a couple hours per side and quicker if you did both simultaneously. A split boot would seem to be your only reasonable "quick fix" as I believe that there would be too much heat for anything like duct tape. Keep in mind that if your boot is torn, the grease inside has been compromised. Eves with the split boot, I would try to replace as much of the grease that you can without removing the axle.
No need for a lift. Did mine on jack stands, rear only. Don't need air tools but I did buy an electric impact wrench from Sears for about $150. Also need a long extension to get from the transmission hub bolts to the impact wrench, 15" or 18" I think, and a 35 mm socket for the axial nut. Take your time and do it right, about 6 hours. Make sure the bolts are properly torques when reassembling or they may work loose.
Agree! If you can do something temporary and TESTED then Stoogapooluza can do it. I even have nitrogen and can run air tools if needed if peter does not have an air compressor. Sometimes airtools just make a job easier. Ketel...if you are going to keep that 355 you need to move to the beach where all your mechanics are. if the boot is catastrophically ripped then split boot might work but I have seen those explode and send grease all over the place. You don't want that blowing up 100 miles from stoogapoluza. If the hole is not too bad brake cleaner and shoe goo work better than silicone RTV. That shoe goo sticks to everything and it is tough. Oh make sure you got grease in the joint and you have not shot it all out through the rip. Just put about 2 dollups of grease in there about the size a gready kid would want whip cream on his apple pie.
For what it's worth, you may be able to do the job without air tools. I recently kind of stumbled into another technique to loosen those darn bolts, and made a quick video to demonstrate. It should be (hopefully) available on YouTube by tomorrow. I'll put a posting up when it goes on.
one-size fits none split-boots are for idiots that don't mind doing the job over (and over). Do it right or find someone that can.
He is trying for a temp fix to get from A to B where it can be fixed properly. At this time he does not have the tools, parts or knowledge to get it done where he is now.
I used a generic split CV boot and it didn't fit so well so in the used a genuine Ferrari boot and cut it with scissors as per the generic one and glued it back up with the glue supplied in the kit. Used the grease too then secured with cable ties. Been on for over a year now with no problems 348 DIY "Restoration" - Page 106
Here's the other method for the CV joint bolts. Can't promise it will work, but maybe worth a try https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mATSHlD__GU
Oh, didn't know that, thanks. A wise upgrade as the Allen head bolts are a big PITA, but I presume you could do the same technique with a box end wrench.
Dont laugh, we had a old guy back in the 80's that wrapped his broken CV boot with Saran Wrap. I be damned but after the mechanic laughed for an hour it took him another hour to get it off. It was on there but good.
It may not even be a split gator. Have you given your engine compression check recently? Seems to be the standard answer for all sorts of problems around here
I think this is the temp fix I'm after. If it buys me the 3 months until I can make it to the SoCal Stoogeappalooza in Sept, it'll be worth it. I'll start looking online. If anyone has a link to a good one, please forward. ketel
I have the air compressor, impact and long extensions. The only thing I don't have is the large socket for removing the hub nut but that is available to borrow for free at my nearby Auto Zone. Can have it all set up for you. Working both sides at the same time, it should be about a 3 - 4 hour job max. Will need others to bring some additional jack stands and floor jacks. I have 1 and 2 respectively.
