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Curious, when you drained the transaxle fluid (assume you did) how fast did the lubricant come out? Have heard that putting off the replacement of transaxle fluid can result in some very expensive problems. ceb39
It is an easy fix in a 6 speed. The F1 is a bit trickier. In the F1 you need to disconnect the input shaft form the actuator, unbolt the actuator assy and pull it out of the way. I marked the bolt locations on my actuator and unbolted it. Once the input shaft is disconnected, the seal pops out with a screw driver. Press the new one in with a deep well socket and reconnect. Actuator went back in, lined up with my marks & all worked as it should. An SD computer alignment check showed I was almost dead on with the re-install.
Cut the boot zip ties Disconnect the shift rod from the input shaft Move the shift linkage out of the way Minimize the amount of movement on the input shaft Take a flat head screw driver and a small hammer and gently tap the seal out Put new seal in Press in with a deep well socket PUT THE BOOT BACK ON Connect the stuff you took apart Zip tie ends of the boot. Open Peroni
Every car is different but on this one no. After being serviced we drive in circle and do figure eights with the car to listen for diff chatter.
Trying! We have 1 funnel between 5 techs right now. Every time I buy a replacement they complain its not the right style. Can't win with the guys in the back sometimes! But on a serious note I will sell you the funnel in the photo for $200. Shoot me a pm if interested .
Just drive it on the lift until warm before draining it and let it drain while your dumping the other fluids.
I thought those rims looked familiar So that's the invoice line item: "scuff oxidized rubber off tires" aka donuts