For early GT4/GTB/GTS with a dual distributor setup, a conversion to an electronic ignition setup with both pickups in one distributor (while keeping the second distributor for the spark distribution) would be my recommendation for a best single upgrade. The problem with a two dist setup is that you won't really be able to get the advance curves of a factory two distributor setup perfectly aligned (e.g. a maximum of 1-2º difference). With a bit of wear and age the two distributors will be even more out of sync with the result that you loose power and the engine will be running rough and develop torque holes where the advance curves are not in sync. Having both pickups in one distributor fixes all that.
1974 Euro GT4... 1: 16" wheels with Bridgestone Pontenza tires 2: QA-1 shocks/springs (300/300 F/R) 3: X-OST muffler 4: BSM electronic ignition 5: Superformance big brakes (front only) What didn't bring as much as I had anticipated: 1: Upgraded rear anti-roll bar 2: Poly bushings in suspension Planned: 1: EFI 2: Fast steering rack in solid bushings 3: Water/oil heat exchanger to keep oil temps in check at prolonged runs over 130 mph
5 minutes of 130mph and the oil is boiling. 120 mph is the max sustainable speed. Not great when your buddies are all driving F360's and faster and you find yourself on an empty German Autobahn...
IMO most of us are enjoying these cars, on normal civilian roads. That being said: The cooling system MUST be addressed, especially if you live in the southern part of the country/anywhere it gets mildly hot. These cars are old and, unless you are completely rebuilding your car (shout out to Crowndog), you are going to have a marginal cooling system. I added a high(er) capacity aluminum radiator, and larger SPAL fans, which has the car running EXACTLY where it needs to be. Standing idle was a problem for me. I changed the thermostat. I checked the water pump. Bled... bled... bled air (and actual blood). Nothing worked... til now. A lot of people will say "if all the components are working, correctly, and OEM system will suffice." Maybe... if the car was new. But, what do I know... That's just my .02
My next stretch of speed unlimited Autobahn is about 20 minutes from my home I don't want to put too much stress on the GT4, but did 310 km/h in my GTR and was passenger at 330 km/h in a 430 Scuderia. Tunnel vision at it's best (or worst). Yes, this is silly, i know.
I have never had a heat problem when driving, and I live in Florida Sitting still in traffic, different problem.
Minor adjustment to install over stock koni shocks and now 47407 is a tiger on turn in.Now it drives like it should,no bounce.Puts the pressure down on the 255BFG Z rated rears when I scoope the wheel 180* in 50mph sweepers.
I am going to try Crowndog's auto bleeder. I have two micro bleeders on the way. I have replaced the radiator, the fans, the pump with the forza high flow. While it doesnt boil over it goes beyond the middle which makes me nervous in 80 degree weather in stop and go. Unless there is corrosion in the pipes I can't see the temps climbing other than air getting into the system or simply a poorly designed aging system. If that doesnt work, I dunno...
It took me about four bleeding cycles to get the air out. Im sure there is some more in there. I have Crowndogs auto-bleeder. IDK if it was working. I bled the system at the thermostat housing and A TON of air came out. Not sure if the auto-bleeder handles a ton of air at once. Might be good for smaller amounts of air. Another thing to consider: If you bleed, and constantly have air in the system, you might have problems at a hose/connector that is letting air in... There really is no need for the auto-bleeder... (of course, I still have it on my car.)
There is this method of bleeding as well: "Typically stupid overly complex method for dealing with something that even an assembly line worker can do a hundred times a day. 1.Open both bleeders and turn the heater temp control to warm. 2. Pour in coolant mix until it spills out both bleeders. 3. Close bleeders and top off tank. 4. Cap off system and drive until next year when you need to change coolant. That's the way Ferrari did it in Maranello. That's the way Ferrari mechanics did it world wide."
A previous owner has installed what in my view is the perfect auto bleeding thing in mine: From the bleed screw at the top of the radiator, a small line (sized only marginally larger than a brake line) goes down, through the center tunnel (it's small enough to be squeezed alongside the two coolant tubes) and from there into the catch tank. Never had a single bubble of air in my system. Cools my car in all kinds of traffic, up to very hot weather. OEM radiator, OEM fans. My thermostat broke once - closed. This is the ONLY reason how I know that it will actually go higher than 90C. Otherwise, my coolant temps never, ever get elevated. HIGHLY recommended mod...
Hans, I've been meaning to come back on this idea as I think its an excellent one. Do you have any pics of this installation - simple rubber heater hose? Clamped over the radiator pipe where the bleed screw entered, or with an open fitting screwed into the radiator and then the hose clamped over that? and how does it getting into the catch tank? was another nipple added to the catch tank or was a union put into one of the other lines? Pics appreciated. Guy
Hmm, lots of good suggestions posted here. Thinking about bringing the 3x8 to present day standards how about some of these: 1) Parking in the absence of self-parking and or electronic sensors: some curb feelers ~ $10 / pair 2) Gas consumption / economical driving: a vacuum gauge ~ $40 3) Steering effort at low speed: a brodie knob ~ $10 4) auxiliary lighting: some whore lures ~ $25 / pair
Best single upgrade, at least for the crap gas we have in the US, is Dave Helms' hose kit. Only YOU can prevent Ferrari fires. Beyond that, I've done Birdman's fuse block, headlight relays with E-code Cibies and high-powered H4 bulbs, and replaced my broken flash-to-pass lights. Everything else has just been maintenance. I will say my cooling system is 100% stock and I have no problems in Atlanta summers in heavy traffic, with the a/c running. The factory setup works very well when it's in good nick, but is apparently sensitive to anything that's not quite right. The only other upgrade I want to do is exhaust, and even that's more about returning it to proper Euro-stock. Otherwise I like it just like it is.
#4.. how often do you change coolant? I think I have partially changed it once in mine in 7 or 8 years, other cars in the collection maybe every 10 years or so.
Got that baffle Luckydynes also made some polyurethane motor mounts, so the car could be more easily shifted while cornering and braking hard. chris
I used to complain about the clutch effort too. Shortly after I got the car, one of the "pucks",(dual composition disc), came off and jambed between the pp and disc. When I took the bell housing off I noticed that the throw out bearing was very hard to slide on the collar. It was galling the tube and was quite difficult to move. Once I filed off the rough spots and lubed the guide tube, (and also having the clutch rebuilt) it was about 30% easier to depress the clutch. hth, chris
I went a little further with the Norwood single distributor and mag pick up. They recurved the advance and machined a tiny bit off of the od of the distributor to allow the use of a 260 chevy distributor cap. That is a $12 item rather than a PAIR of $300 Ferrari caps. If I had it to do over again, I would go to the electromotive, or other all electronic ignition with a vacuum input. This alone should bump the mileage 5+ on trips. 16 is the best I can do on trips now. chris
As the title says..."Best Single Upgrade" I'd have to go with wheels/tires with updated ignition a close second.
