Should be about 4 and a half bottles (or 4.5 litres) for the gear oil.
David, do you have the part# for those metal brake line clips? I need to buy some from Ricambi? Nice work by the way.
It's been fun so far. I could do another major service in probably half the time now that I know what I'm doing and what I'm looking for etc. Right now I'm waiting on my crank shaft seal from Ricambi. There was a little mix up, but they are over-nighting it to me so I'll be able to finish up the car by Wed/Thurs. Then....it's time to drive her!! Too pretty to be sitting in the garage for so long.
LMFAO....good catch...but yes. I removed it . Thanks for keeping me honest. For those of you reading this that have not drilled a set screw for your tensioner--DO IT!. It's too easy and saves you too much time not to do it.
Can someone shed more light on this. Is there a screw that comes pre-installed for shipping that needs to be removed prior installing during the major? Also, what is meant by "drilling" a set screw?
I do believe they are talking about the set screws he adds in post 41. He drilled and tapped holes so he could put in a set screw that would hold the tensioner back as far as it could be while he put on the belts then would release when done.
That is correct. While the "set screw" is not factory I found that it is so easy to do and will save you so much hassle when it comes to re-installing the timing belt. You use the set screw to hold the tensioner in the compressed position, and when ready, release it and remove it. Attached is a picture of me looking up at the belt tensioner with the belt on, covers on, and the screw removed (see Ernie...it really is removed). Image Unavailable, Please Login
I finally got my crankshaft seal from Ricambi today (Thanks Ricambi for over-nighting it to me!!). You will see that I installed the seal with the cover still attached to the car. This doesn't necessarily make things any harder, but it does require you to pay attention. If you see I am pointing at a little "lip" on the crank shaft. That is important to take into consideration when you install the seal so that the inner part does not get hung up on it. Use a piece of plastic or non edged piece of metal to help the inner part of the seal clear that lip and go in cleanly. Once it clears the lip you can literally use your fingers to press in the seal a good portion of the way. Then I used my fancy dancy seal presser to seat it in all the way. Do not simply try and make it flush with the cover as it will not be seated all the way back in the opening. Then it was time to re-install the A/C and Alternator belts. The one picture below is of the A/C belt tensioner bolt. Tighten it to place tension on the belt. I do not have a fancy tool to tell me the exact belt tension so I use a tried and true method: with two fingers you should just barely be able to twist the belt 90 degrees on itsself. If you can just do it with two fingers it is at a sufficient tension. Take it or leave it that's how I was taught and I have never had any issues. Just my technique. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
With everything back on I went over every bolt and made sure that everything was tight. I also rotated the engine through two cycles to make sure that that my belts were all on properly. Additionally, I removed the top timing belt covers to make sure that there was no accidental belt slop and that my belt guides were still at a proper clearance from the belt. The last thing I want is for those to be rubbing on the belt making noise and ruining my hard work. Then after I went over all the belts I put the covers back on and then looked at all the hoses. Make sure that your hose clamps are all tight and that they are on aft of the nipple or bump on their respective housings. You should only have 9 rubber hoses not attached (3 x Coolant hoses / 2 x Fuel / 2 x Airbox Connections / 2 x Oil Lines). What I'm getting at is to be thorough and look over everything that you touched to make sure when you connect everything that you aren't left with a "hey...where does this go" moment. Now I've looked over every wire and said to myself exactly where that wire or plug connects. This will help you be expeditious when the engine is back in the car. Perhaps its the pilot in me, but "checklist discipline" and prior thought seems to save me lots of frustration. The engine goes back in tomorrow......more pics of the re-install to follow. Happy Tuesday! Image Unavailable, Please Login
You might consider keeping a few floor (or bottle) jacks and some extra lumber around for the re-install. This will allow you adjust height at each corner of the engine cradle. In my experience (also using a MaxJax), I've always had to play with the angle of the cradle a little bit to get the shocks in the towers and the bolt holes to align. I don't have a picture with the jacks, but I put a bottle jack under each corner of the dolly to help fine tune the angle for re-assembly. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I am not sure if I am the anomaly in this case, but with my recent major, this bracket had a crack running down the center of it. I did not have a set screw or hole drilled into the bracket, but I assume it failed due to over torquing, design flaw, or 20+ years of vibration. Had it not been discovered, and replaced...you know the rest. I just wonder if this seemingly great idea could compromise the integrity of the bracket and cause future headache?
Yes...excellent point and one which I am planning on doing. In your experience is there a "better" sequence as far as bolt re-install goes? AKA...do the rear sub frame before the front "12" etc? Other than the fine tuned angle adjustments any other great pearls of wisdom?
I would argue no. The shaft of the bracket where the hole is drilled is a non load bearing piece. Aka, the shaft of the tensioner simply rests in the housing. All of the pressure comes at the base of the bracket where the spring presses against the bracket and in turn presses up against the tensioner assembly. Hence, the shaft simply acts as a guide but does not incur, or nominally incurs, force acting on it that would cause it to crack. Additionally, since the force being applied from the tensioner on to the house comes at a 90 degree angle the entire load is transfered from the tensioner to the spring to the base of the housing. Again, no "resolvent vectors" that would cause excessive pressure on the shaft/sidewalls. Did I just geek out of Fchat??!!
The shock tower studs need to clear first, and this has been the toughest part for me during my two re-installs. Once the shock towers are clear, it shouldn't be too difficult to line up the remaining holes if you have a jack or two handy. I lined up and installed the front 12 first, and the back 4 big bolts last. I was always worried that the reverse order could end up flexing the rear body too much (and cracking paint) if the cradle moved around while trying to line up the front screws. Just my method. I'd be interested to hear if others have had success in the reverse order.
You have made valid points, and logic suggests you are correct. I was perplexed when I saw the large crack in mine, and based on your explanation, I am leaning more towards some type of flaw in the manufacturing process.
I got the engine in the other day and all I can say it...damn. Kind of a PITA. The hardest part for me wasn't actually the 12 bolts, but getting the shock towers to seat properly in the frame. It takes a ton of up/down/left/right kind of movements to get it at the perfect angle and then magically "clunk" they fall right into place. You will definitely need one and maybe two helpers to get it just right. So buy a case of beer because you are about to owe your buddies so cold ones. As the engine is inserted make sure that all of the hoses get routed properly back to the frame...oh yeah....and don't forget to have the hose clamps on BEFORE you mate the engine otherwise it's just an added pain. Fishing the ECU cables through the car wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be but as you would imagine...go slow and feed them as you move the engine into place. After the engine is mated now the fun begins. Re-connect everything and get all the bolts back on. Then before you even think about turning on the car make sure all the fluids are in and topped off. Now, after you double check everything making sure it is all connected finally connect your battery. Then turn your key to the 1st position (when you see the ABS light on).
For bleeding the brakes and the clutch I used a combination of my power bleeder from Bavauto as well as the two person method. I found that the pressure bleeder had a hard time with the ABS pump in the loop and so I used the two person method. The wife sat in the car as I went around and bled the system. That was fairly painless. The one thing I would offer up is to buy the catch bottle I have from Bavauto. It is AWESOME. It is designed to fit the bleeding nipples and just makes things clean and easy. No reason to mess with vinyl tubing when you can get something that can and will last forever. Ok after the brakes I went on to the clutch. This proved to be much more troublesome than I expected. For the life of me I could not get it to pressurize. So I called Ernie and he told me about "deadheading" the system. Essentially what I did was disconnect the line from the clutch master cylinder (I'm pointing to it in the picture). Then as someone pushes down on the pedal you need to hold your finger over the master cylinder exit and allow it to pressurize. YOU WILL GET FLUID SPILLAGE SO USE A TOWEL and be ready for the cleanup. Then, when the pedal hits the floor screw the line back in. Now go back to the clutch bleed nipple and bleed the system. I tried that and found a small increase in pressure, but it wasn't anywhere near what it needed to be. I was positive that there were some big-ol-air bubbles in the line. So I connected my bleeder to the reservoir and positioned the car so the back was elevated about a foot or so above the front and bled the system that way. Viola!!! The baby spat out bubbles like you read about...and then the yucky old fluid...and then the golden new fluid started flowing and I knew that I was in business!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
