I need some help, i failed the sniffer test today. I sortta new it was comming becuase it smells like my mustang with no cats at idle. Here are my numbers 2500RPM HC (ppm)- limit 200 , reading - 90 - pass CO(%) - limit 1, reading 0.66 - pass Idle HC (PPM) - limit 200, reading 2219 - FAIL lol co (%) - limit 1, reading 1.07 - fail (at least i was close) So it must be running pig rich at idle. I am going to check the MAFs, but what else would cause such a bad fail at idle? The cats seem to be fine since the 2500RPM test passed with no prob. Any help would be great!
Thanks! I got a check engine 1-4 light on the way home tonight. It went out, but I hope it stored the code. I am getting some backfire under deceleration or coasting. It has a Tubi exhaust but I don't think that's normal? I was also doing some more reading and found a post a few down about the temperature not staying in the middle but getting colder on the highway. Mine does the same, on the highway or Anytime you move quick the temperature drops. Then when you stop, the temp moves back to the middle. I guessing I should order a new thermostat as well
One more thing to add, it's also hard to start when warm. First thing stone cold half a crank it fires right up. When hot it cranks for a good 5-8 seconds before it fires, and you have to blip the throttle a few times before it will idle nice. I thought it was the flywheel, but it does the same thing with the clutch in or out
From My Ferrari 348 Here's the link on hard starts and what to check: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/135922487-post7.html Easy test and you should be able to determine if it is fuel lines, or somewhere in flywheel/starter/etc. There maybe updates to this issue elsewhere, but this is the go to guide.
Thanks! To Test: Drive your 348 until it is hot, then stop and turn off the engine. As soon as your engine stops, immediately start your car again. I did that by accident one day. Stalled it while going into the garage when it was fully hot I started it right away and she fired right up. So i am guessing i have a fuelling issue. Which is probably causing the high HC readings as well. Previous owner had the plugs, wires, pumps, fuel filters, and injectors out and cleaned. No pressure regulators though. A friend suggested they could have nicked an injector o ring as well, causing a a leak. i guess i have some work to do tonight! i hope it's as simple as a regulator or a leaky o ring
Isn't there an adjustment for the MAF's for rich and lean? I think it is on the 348 site referred to above. Here is a link from our site: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/137074650-post1.html Regards, Jerry
thanks yes! My list for tonight - pull check enigne light code from yesterday - check MAFs - check wires and plugs - check for vacuum leaks ( going to spary carb cleaner and see if the idle goes up, if it does it sucked in carb cleaner) - check fuel pressure regulators - check injector o rings
Checked mafs, they are at the proper factory setting. Started the car, let it run for 5min or so, shut it off and then pulled the vacuum hose from each fuel pressure regulator Bank1-4 fuel came out Bank 5-8 slight smell of fuel but nothing actually came out I am thinking I need a fuel pressure regulator. Fuel should not be coming out of the vacuum hose. Someone back me up here
ordered up new fuel pressure regulators from Rockauto for $7x each, also ordered up new O2 sensors for about the same price. They are still factory so some new ones cant hurt after being covered in fuel Once i get the new parts in i will follow this procedure http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/202083-how-set-maf-screw-accurately-motronic-2-5-a.html
If the car was allowed to cool down before the test that could have an affect on the idle. Like if you got to the test facilities and had to wait your turn for 30-60 minutes. That would allow the coolant temperature to drop enough to affect the fuel mapping. When the engine is below 140°F/60°C the ECUs run full enrichment to help the cats warm up quickly. Over 140° and below 176°F the ECUs run secondary enrichment. Not as much as initial, but still richer than full operating temperature. Constantly over 176°F/80°C the ECUs go to normal fuel mapping. So........ Do NOT test your car if it has cooled off. Best thing to do, IF you can, is test it immediately after arriving to the test facility. If have to wait a long time, warm the car up to full operating temps (over 176°F) before you test it.
Here is the link to a thread for pulling the codes if you don't have the CEL button. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355/366639-pulling-ecu-code-final-step-348tb.html
If you just go to RockAuto Parts Catalog they have it listed under Ferrari 348 Before i bought a Ferrari i chcked my ususal spots and read all the cross renfrence parts lists/posts just to be sure i didnt have to spent $1000 on a spark plug lol You know i dont think that helped much either. I only had to wait about 5 minutes, but they messed up the test and had to do it again. Tech had trouble keeping the RPMs at the correct reading. Then it took abother 10min or so before they could test again, as the machine would not reset. When they did the test again, the machine said to hold it at 2500rpm for 3 min as the EGTs where too low. BUUUTT there is somthing wrong, becuase no matter how hot it gets, at idle it will make your eyes burn if you stand near the exhuast. I just found that out after going for the test. Before that i never hung around the tail with the motor running for very long haha. Excellent! Thanks! Could not find it for some reason.
