first, a simple question; on the oem headers, the heat shields are not designed to be removed and reinstalled correct? that is the only way to do this is to cut them off and weld them back together? ok, now the real question; hypothetically, taking cost out of the equation, what do you think of taking a set of factory headers in good condition, removing the oem heat shields, and then ceramic coating, wrapping with header tape, and then re-installing heat shields. coupled with hyperflow or fabspeed cats, do you think that would permanently resolve the issue?
Tough to say, all that might accomplish is holding more heat in the header tube which could make the problem worse. It could also make it better by isolating the heat of the header tubes from each other as it seems like they burn where two tubes are very close to each other. I think just swapping the cats or going to test pipes would make the biggest difference. If you got the headers coated internally (tough to do) so that less heat actually got into the tubes, that might be the best thing to do. I am having an internal debate as to what I should do with my headers when I do my major next year. It's either remove the heat shields and have them swain tech coated, replace them with aftermarket units, or just leave them be. I'm leaning towards leaving them be as I have test pipes and a challenge grill and thus far have not had any of the heat related issues that many have with these cars. When I first got the car I had to replace the motor mounts, but in the 10k miles since I've not had any of the typical heat related issues these cars have. No cv boots or alternator issues etc., so I think getting heat out of the engine bay can make a big difference to longevity of these parts.
I have thought about many different exhaust options. I wouldnt waste time with the stock headers. By the time you bought a used set and and payed the labor to have them opened thyen ceramic coated you could buy an aftermarket set. Even if you use your stock ones you would have to buy another pair if you wanted to go back to stock. If you wrap the stock headers and dont insulate them and put them in the clam shell then you should run header blankets..once again you will have spent enough to buy aftermarket ones. I am having custom SS headers built that will fit in the oem clam shells this winter. I bought some flow thru cats and a Nouvalari SuperSports Exhaust..I just need a secondary bypass pipe will install all of it along with a challenge grill to keep the engine bay heat down.. Consensus with all the shops I have spoken with is to go with aftermarket ones put the stock ones on a shelf.
Stay with 4-2-1, that is all. The 355 needs more mid range punch, not top end. Top end is already awesome. Mid range is not.
That's what I did: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/241877-another-major-underway-along-header-disection.html The car just passed 30,000 miles. No issues with the headers. IMO looking at how the factory heat wrap was "settling" it was only a matter of time before they failed. I figured worse case scenario if they still failed with the coating, it was a $300 experiment. The only coating I would use is the one from Swain Technolgies. It's not the "prettiest" but it's the best. I do not like wrapping headers on street cars. Any leaks (like cam covers) the wrap will absorb the oil and become a fire hazard. IMO the problem is non-uniform heating of the headers when the wrap fails or settles like in the photos I posted in the above linked thread. I also removed the pipe for the air pump to eliminate the possibility of that location failing.
Did you get a CEL? Thinking of following your idea and ceramic coating the headers.. Quote was a triple coating on the outside and one on the inside $375..
in this scenario, why wouldn't you put insulation material back in? did you put the stuffing or insulation back in the clamshell when you put it back together?
You could insulate them and put them back in the clam shell after ceramic coating.. I'm not exactly sure its necessary.
My opinion is no, it will not resolve the failure issue. The problem is the headers are made from stainless steel that is too thin, and probably not the appropriate material. I doubt ceramic coating will fix or correct anything, nor will header tape. Better flowing catalysts are unlikely to benefit exhaust manifold life either...in my inexpert opinion. I would simply deal with it when they fail, and buy quicksilver rebuilt from evans auto. Ferrari F355 - Manifolds EXCHANGE (1994-99) - QuickSilver Exhaust Systems
We all know OEM headers are crap and will fail,it's just a matter of time with potential highly expensive engine damage in the process. Tubi headers are an investment but they sing and put a smile on my face everyday. If you love your 355 and intend to keep it,don't hesitate: go for it. Best investment you can make on this iconic beauty. Cheers from paris. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Whats the price? I saw them on one site they were over $7000 they dont look that good or are they a winner at that price...you can get custom ones built in the shell for less than half that.
The CEL just recently came on for catalytic efficiency. I was planning on taking them off completely anyway. The only ceramic coating I'll ever use is from Swain Technologies: White Lightning Exhaust Coatings | Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings It's not the "prettiest" but it can be painted. I just left them in the raw. I would also be leery of anyone claiming to do a full inside coating. A local friend of mine owns & operates a ceramic / powder-coating company. He showed me the process for spraying on a ceramic coating and why it's nearly impossible to get a full, even coating inside complicated headers like those on a 355. Unless someone has come up with a way to "dip" the headers..... Even then, any chance for high / low spots inside a manifold is not good. I did not put the covers back on. If anything, I would have a custom inconel blanket made to cover the headers. Look at my photos again. I'm not going to argue weather or not the material is too thin or incorrect, but there is another obvious issue with the "settling" of the wrap material. This is causing hot / cold spots which will take any problem and make it worse. Eliminating the wrap and going with another method to hold in the heat and keep the manifolds a uniform temperature will only help. I do not know if this "settling" of the wrap is common or just a fluke with this car. I would like to see more headers cut open to confirm. I'm not saying aftermarket headers are not a good solution, but if you have a "good" set of factory units, I see little harm in trying a good coating. With the covers off, a set of headers failing will be very easy to spot.
I have OEM headers coated inside the tubes and on the heatshield. Three years post install and working well. Definite reduction of heat in engine compartment.
I would not waste my time with the OEM headers. It is a lower grade of S/S and it is to thin. There are better aftermarket options out there. You could also have them rebuilt by JPExhausts. Ricambi carries them. I am glad that I had OEM heat shields installed on my custom made headers given the heat that gets generated on this car.
Some of the Ferrari experts that use to post on here recommended using headers with shielding. As far as coatings go, some people like it, but I am not sure how well the inside of pipes could be coated and how long it will last.
+1 had my Tubi headers since 2007 nearly 20,000 miles later no problems what so ever. Proper configuration, no question of country of origin and sound as good as stock. Fixing this issue the right way the first time is less expensive in the long run and they perform as intended.
It is 409 S/S and is 1.2mm thick. This information is on the Quicksilver Exhaust site. Most of the aftermarket headers are made in 304 S/S or better.
+2 had my Tubi headers installed at 22k when the original headers exploded. Sold it 6 years and 31k miles later and they were still perfect, no problems. Given the endorsements of long time owners and basically every mechanic I've heard from, there's no other choice IMO.
I would seriously disagree with no other choice. It's not a watch for Christi's same. Quite a few company's and Indy shops build quality headers that don't fail. At half the $7000 price tag. Tubis are good quality like others. But there for people that diagnose problems with their check book
