Tricky spinning nut on bolt....

K

 

No
No
No

The bolt is welded to the chassis in a box section where you cant get at it
The nut spins not the bolt.

This is what i'm going to do when i've worked up the balls...

Dremel away the bolt head holding the bellcrank to the bracket
Now remove the bellcrank
Now i can get a nut splitter on the xxxxxing nut
Destroy the xxxxxnut
Look at the threads on the bolt
Hope that a new nut will hold tight.
If not chase the threads on the bolt...which i have never done before....
How does this chasing thread thing work?

 

take off left nut
take to hardware store and buy "die" that matches it
very carefully perfectly 90 degrees to the stud screw the die on like a nut it will cut threads (chase) to be like factory as long as they are not destroyed

Last resort:
It is so cheap you can also buy stud or bolt same size and cut head off bolt and weld it to the old location cutting off the bad stud.

 

Even another proposal , but this one sacrifices a socket only.

Degrease nut and bolt with appropriate organic solvent.

Then carefully put a thin grease layer on the end of the bolt (only!).

Then glue a socket onto the nut using a good 2-component glue.

Finally, the nut should come off by turning and pulling the socket at the same time.

 

If the threads are damaged on the bolt you may not be able to chase new threads since material may be missing. Since the nut is spinning, I doubt there is any 100% sure way to determine if it's the threads on the bolt or the nut that are damaged. Your method would be OK if the nut is damaged but if it's the bolt, you may want to think about "plan B" before you proceed.

 

Or instead of glueing, take a socket, drill a hole through the outer cylindrical face so that it would hit the nut with the socket positioned thereon, then cut a thread into this hole (M3 or smaller) and fix the socket to the nut using a fixing screw (setscrew, locking screw, onto the end of which you perhaps have filed a sharp tip) in this thread.

Then you can still continue to use this socket and who knows for what this special tool may be useful again ...

 

Very interesting idea
If it fails to get the nut off though how do i use a nut splitter on the nut seeing as it will be buried in the socket

 

Thanks

Is it possible to weld in such a tight space inside the furthest reach of the footwell?
Have a feeling it may come to this

 

My subsequent variant proposal #31 will not have this problem, but requires some (limited) precision engineering facilities/tools for making the thread in the socket.

 

I feel its the bolt whose threads are damaged.
There were slivers of bolt looking metal that i picked out with my finger tips...could be nut stuff maybe....have to get the nut off to see...

Thing is with a nyloc nut how do you know that its threaded on the bolt perfect?
I threaded it like normal with my fingers and it was fine ...but then the nylon bit grips and you have to use a socket to continue winding.....with no nylon i would spin on the nut by hand until the end of the bolt shows through...cannot do this with a nyloc...so whats the technique?

 

The stud is more then likely stripped, in 9 out 10 times the stud looses it's threads vs the nut. There is no option to remove the nut in one piece, it's not going to unscrew no matter how much oil is used. The nut needs to be removed by splitting it, either finagle a splitter in there or use a dremmel to cut a grove and then pry it apart or cut a grove then rotate and cut another, cutting it in half.

If the stud is toast, you can cut it off and weld another in place or drill it out and use a retaining captive nut in it's place.

 

Woh...too much to bugger up here..but..very creative!

 

By the way, if indeed the thread on the bolt is faulty, you could still continue to use it, since the thread of the bolt will be OK at least where the nylon part of the nut is located (provided you get the nut off carefully). Then you either take a taller nut or use washers and fix the new nut with e.g. locktight.

 

Hard to tell from the picture but are there any threads exposed above the nut?

 

You guys are making too big a job out of this. I would have it off in ten minutes with my 3/8" drive impact gun with a 10mm deep socket. Find or make a small pry bar with a sharp end that you can force under the nut so you can apply pressure "UP". Put the gun on the nut set to unscrew and while holding pressure on the pry bar, hit it. Once the nut finds the good threads it will be off. Put 3 or 4, 6mm washers on the stud and replace the nut (if still good). You're done!

I've done this countless times. The tricky part is finding or making the right pry tool. I'm always on the look out when I go to the hardware store or a swap meet for special tools or things I can make/modify one out of. Don't be afraid to take a cheap screwdriver and heat/bend the tip if it does the job. I have a drawer full of cheap wrenches that I've bent or ground down to fit unique situations that the tool companies couldn't have anticipated.

 

Yes if you have access. but if there is about 1 1/2 times the current nut thickness behind the bulkhead then you can cut the stud off flush. Drill a hole and "nutsert" it then replace the nut and stud with just a bolt. A tip is to use antiseize on the bolt for the future because sometimes the sert will spin in the bulkhead if that grip fails with time. There are also nutserts with ribbed bodies that grip better than smooth bodies.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz2yZNqGNqo]HOW TO INSTALL NUTSERT INSERT threaded insert demo fasteners australia - YouTube[/ame]

 

David and I tried to get him to do that (wedge removal) on page one. Not sure if that was attempted.

 

Sounds very familiar to me

 

Yes there are...maybe 1mm
Not enough to get another nut on though.

 

Yes...

 

If you just want to fix it without removing anything, take one or a few (thin) washers, cut/file them open so that you can slide them over the stud from the side, and pry the needed number of these "slitted" washers under the nut for a tight fit. Perhaps plastic washers, nylon or PE/PP. It does not look as if great forces are expected to act onto the nuts/studs

 

I saw that. If it didn't work, he wasn't trying hard enough. If he can't get a pry bar (knife sharp end) under the nut (or even forced under the bracket), then the nut isn't loose enough to worry about at all.

I would NOT recommend any welding under the dashboard of a modern car. Besides the numerous things that could catch fire, the possibility of damaging the numerous electronic devices certainly out weighs the benefits.

As I recommended in my first post, unless there's a compelling reason to take this apart, you could just leave it alone. One tight nut and one nearly tight nut is enough to do the job here. It's the throttle cable, a pretty light-duty application. I really doubt it's going anywhere.

 

Tim

Do not have an impact gun.
No room to pry up the nut.
This is buried right at the deepest nook of the footwell...1.5" off of the floor with like 3" to the right before you hit the unibody wheel well.

 

Thanku

Tried but couldn't get enough pressure to wedge the nut up
Too little space..or i'm a knob!

 

I would tend to agree with that (and the welding issue) ...