Its only an issue with cloned fobs. Every time a fob is pressed, the code transmitted changes (it rolls to the next code step). In the beginning the fob and alarm are synchronised, so that the alarm knows what code to expect the next time the fob is pressed - all good. A cloned fob is at the same "step" as the donor fob only at the time the fob is cloned. Every time the donor fob is pressed, the code transmitted rolls to the next code and the code expected by the alarm also changes. The other (cloned) fob needs to be pressed the same number of times to catch up to the step where the donor fob/alarm are up to. This is the downside of cloned fobs, the trick is to remember to use both fobs alternatively, so that one fob doesn't get too many steps behind the other. Every modern car alarm uses rolling codes to enhance security, otherise it would be possible simply to record the code transmitted by a fob and re-send it to disarm the alarm.
FBB- There are 67,600 possible rolling codes for each of the fobs. Might take a while to get through them all.
I just got my clone. If I understand this donor/clone relationship, I can use my clone as a primary for a month, pull the donor out of the drawer, and one click go. Then use the donor a couple of times, and click the clone three times and away I go. So the secret code (to the code) is use the clone, and keep the donor as a spare. That's simple enough - if it's correct.
Richard- No, does not work like that. The donor and clone have exactly the same content on their EEPROMs. They have the same rolling code sequence, so depressing either's button advances the sequence and leaves the other behind. Use either and it will take an equal number of button depressions plus one to get to a rolling code the Alarm ECU has not seen.
Not entirly true about the codes. as that would mean that if you press the fob a couple of times without being near to the car, the next time you want to use the fob with the car, the alarm would not respond. In my case, I never arm the alarm and can start the car without pressing the remote. I haven't done that for the last couple of months. In case of these roling codes theorie, I should have a problem now
Its very simple really, see post 502 When you press a fob, a code is sent to the immobilizer. Because the fob and immobilizer are synchronized the immobilizer knows what code to expect from the fob every time its pressed. Press the fob a few times away from the car and the immobilizer is now "behind" the code sequence transmitted by the fob, but the immobilizer still knows the codes it expects to be sent in the future from that fob. Press the fob as described in the owners manual and a code is sent to the immobilizer that steps it forward through the expected sequence until it catches up with that fob. The issue with a cloned fob is that the fob gets behind the code that the immobilizer expects to see as the master fob has already sent that code to the immobilizer, and the immobilizer can only step forward through the sequence, not backwards Which is why you need to press the clone xxxx number of times to catch up to the immobilizer sequence. Pretty much all car immobilizer transmitters work the same way. M
Idiosyncratic is a word that seems to fit Ferrari and is at least one of the reasons we love them. But they were not alone going down this long dark alley; my cloned fob says Porsche on it. 500+ posts on this subject! Rube Goldberg would be jealous of this design, (and the Spider top!) Terry, thank you. that is exactly what I found when I did my own little one week test using the clone. I had to push the original about 10 times for it to work. And Dave, I always stay tuned for your posts.
Jochem- I would have to see that to believe it. The alarm ECU and the immobilizer are separate boxes that communicate with each other but operate independently. 60 seconds after you remove the key and open the door, the immobilizer arms, or 120 seconds after you disarm the system and do not start her. So regardless of whether you arm the alarm, the immobilizer arms itself. If yours does not do that, it is the only one like it, or you have a Motronic 2.7 or Challenge car and are in the wrong thread. What year is your F355?
This may help understand why the factory pin numbers may not work...As Dave had a problem with..Back in 1998 when car was current my car was at Ferrari of Beverly Hills for service.. When I picked the car up they gave me all new remotes with I believe a new pin?.. was a long time ago so hard to exactly remember..They wanted me to return my other remotes as well..From what The service manager then Alan woodard said they needed to do this to all the cars.
Correct, the new set of remote fobs comes with a new pin. That new pin replaced the original pin Ferrari recorded when the car was at the factory, if the dealer didn't forward the new pin details to Ferrari, then Ferrari's records will be out of date. M
If i dont have a pin , but i have the master can i still program other remotes from the master without needing the pin?
Yes, and you can also make copies from the slaves (if you want to call them that). The "master" status is meaningless at this point.
Steve, If you order a new set of FOB's, they come with a new PIN. That PIN is coded to the Red Master. FYI, they no longer have Red cases, so they send all 3 in black and label one "Master". In order to get the car's immobilizer to accept the new FOB's (and new PIN), you must have the old PIN to unlock the immobilizer. If you have the old PIN and it works, you can unlock the immobilizer and teach the new FOB's (and new PIN) to the immobilizer. Once complete, the old PIN is useless and so are old FOB's. The new FOB's and new PIN will now be the only stuff the immobilizer can recognize.
What if you have an ecu and immobilizer and a master from this set up..From another car..Can i just hook that up and good to go?..I can program from the master other remotes as well right?
Steve, The FOB's cannot be programmed to the best of my knowledge, or should I say, they can't be user programmed. Many people mis understand this. When you get new FOB's, you don't program them from the immobilizer, it's the other way around. You program the immobilizer with the data on the FOB's. Obviously, someone programs the FOB's at the factory.
Im not talking about a new set from factory Im really talking about the components ecu immb. master from another set up working together as one..But as far as what your saying you cant program another remote from your master?..How do people who buy remotes program them to work?
Correct. People can "clone" not program the FOB's. It has nothing to do with the master, unless you are using the master to make a clone. A clone is simply a copy of another FOB's. The FOB's eprom is removed, the data is read and then it's written to another FOB's eprom. It's a copy (clone), not a reprogram.
So you need the pin..Which i have for this other set up, but im affraid it may be outdated like the case with yours from Ferrari switching these out years back..If so I would not be in a better position than now with one regular remote that works?
Steve, send me a PM, I'll give you my number and you can call me. Probably easier to speak than write.
my car is a 1996 5.2 (two airboxes) spider with the factory alarm. Alarm is working, because when it is armed, I can not start the car. I never close the roof, neither lock the doors. just put a cover on it in the parking where the car is parked and I walk away. When I come back, I often only have the spare key with me without the FOB, I just remove the cover, step in and start.