I laughed out loud when I read that. That's where I'll be when I lift the body OFF the engine I had to replace a punctured coolant hose courtesy of the previous mechanic. In trying to access it, I could see the union on the PS and it scares the heck out of me. Can I get it apart? Probably. More importantly, can I get it back together? Less likely <gulp> Thanks for the advice. It isn't about the money. I drive my cars and I am proud to say I know exactly how they work and do almost all my own repairs. Having said that, this is a deep dive for me. Stay tuned. The checkbook is indeed in the tool chest
If it takes you more than 5 minutes to get it out, you are doing it wrong. Two open ended wrenches, 22mm and 19mm (or 17mm) Snug them up close to each other, and squeeze. Then finish the job by hand. That should not be the hardest thing in this job.
Dino I have to ask why do you drop the oil tank?All i do is undo the two oil lines and leave the tank with the car.
Dave i found it easier to guide the engine back in with the tank on the frame. Less clutter to negotiate while slipping the engine back into the tight space.
Dino I leave the motor on four even jack stands then just lift the body up off the frame.when i'm done i drop the body down ,there is not to much fuss then to line everything up because the frame has not been moved.
You know it does not really matter mate. I started removing 355 engines over 10 years ago, so far I have done maybe 9-10. All mine were done from the floor not a lift. Maybe you have more expereance than me, its no biggie either way, it is what it is Funny thing is that 10 years ago on this forum, i recall when DIY engine removal information was scarce, arguments used to be if an engine out could actually be done at home at all. So I suppose arguing over if the oil tank should come out or stay in is progress
Thanks Buddy (Mate) I appreciate the help. I'll be doing a major fairly soon... (and need all the help I can get)
I'm not knocking DIY major. I simply choose not to do an engine out myself. But at the same time there are other things that expert eyes may pick up that a novice doesn't. One other point is documentation. If I was looking for a car and found two, both with 1 year old majors and close in price and condition, I'd buy the one with the professionally done major over the DIY major. But the bottom line is just that I'll gladly do small jobs but don't particularly want to drop an engine. And no way I would do it in the winter. Working on cars requires tee shirt weather for me.
Your more of a man than me to do it without a lift.How long does it take you to pull the motor without a lift?Dino were not arguing about if you need to pull the tank or not.We are just trying to help each other out to save some time.I guess if you dont to use a lift my jack stand method would not help much.
Id love to learn how to do this also.....unfortunately lack of space. It would be kinda fun to get all the guys together in the mid-west + surrounding areas. Rent a big space, hang out for a week and tackle everybody major. Im thinking music, food, a few beers etc etc Tough to pull off but it be a great learning experience.
The arguing was just a figure of speech mate I have the engine removal down to a fine art now. Takes me about 3 and a half hours from start to end to drop the engine by my self. The twin jack method is not as daunting as it sounds. The key is to have a pair of monster jacks, as well as a good strong engine dolly with good caster wheels.
Playing devils advocate...John you have to consider the source. There are a few Pro's in cali who specialize in turd polishing majors just for you. The same novice eye moving slowly may pick up more than the lazy eye of an expert. A pro's name on the service or FNA does not impress me at all. I could spend days telling you about the cr@p I have seen over 30+ years. There are many single model enthusiasts who know more about the quirks of a single model than pros who must be experts over an entire model line.
But you know what? I dont think that would be as good as it sounds. I can just imagine the arguing and fights that would break out over the disagreement as to which af the 12 bulk head nuts to remove first Or which order to undo the hoses There would have to be one top dog in charge, and as we all know there are at least 160 Alpha males on here. So there would be another fight
Form the other side, I do not disagree that there are good and bad mechanics. As an owner you have a choice of who will work on you car to fix what, including DIY. I just choose to choose someone other that me. Not to knock Watson, he may be an excellent mechanic, but it would appear that he is not a single model enthusiast and greatly experienced in the 355 or I think he would not have started this thread asking for "how to" advice.
Ok, I can't offer any input since I'm a newbie, but I bought my 97 with 25k with the intent to do the major myself. I can't imagine doing an engine out without a lift, but that's me. I'm eyeballing the MaxJax 2 post lift for the job. And while I'm pretty handy around a garage, I want to do the major myself but I'm scared to bite off more than I can handle. So please keep providing this incredibly valuable info. Onash.
Well, John.....I'd say I'm in the same boat and watch me do mine Do I need to learn? - You bet Do I need advice from folks here? - You bet Is it likely I'll make mistakes? - You bet Do I really give a crap how the (potential) future buyer views my DIY efforts? - Not really. My enjoyment with the car comes from: 1) Driving 2) Looking 3) Hearing 4) Working on the car Not in that order per say. I love to work on the car and I plan to do as much as I can myself. That's the best way to learn about these cars. And, you already know all of this, John
I used to do that, and attend that, with the Porsche 911 guys. But, the 911 can have its engine out in 2 hours flat, with 2 jacks. The F355 is quite a bit more involved... And once the guys learned who is the lead teacher-in-charge, the all step in line.
I get no joy out of working on cars at this point. I will do the grunt work. I'd even do a clutch because I'm a cheap SOB. I'm the type of guy who likes to figure out what to do, how to do it and then direct someone else actually do it. I'm a theorist. I enjoy driving, period. I'm not the type of guy who go out in the garage and look at the car or looks back over my shoulder when walking away from it. I got over that long ago with the 308. And I don't want to learn too much about these cars (355) 'cause it will just give me nightmares.
Hope not Dave. If I thought that I would never got started. For the newbie there are several ways to not screw up. 1) Be progressive. Work your way up to a major. Flushing brakes, chaging a rotor, rebuilding a caliper, changing an alternator belt, changing a clutch. 2) measure twice cut once. Read about cam timing before you try it for real. Use common sense like knowing your cam timing can't be too far from the assembly marks. If you wheel is telling you weird things suspect your techique. 3) set yourself up for success. You can search timing threads nearly a decade past. Assembly marks were considered timing back then and cam timing only a few pros did or crazy racers. If you read back all kinds of "timing" methods where used from nail polish to mark belt positions, to cam cogs on valve covers, to journals and cam caps, cam locking tools, and vise grips. Choose a method of repair that helps you check your work. For example if you swap belts using nail polish and there is an error you have no idea where you are and there are no quick checks to prevent an error. If however you have cam covers off and engine at TDC and the 4 marks line up (cam/caps) there is no way for pistons to hit valves period end of story. 4) have good work habits. For example what to do with all those nuts? I say put them in a bucket! People think I'm nuts. I see others take a nut off and then put it back on loosely because that's where it belongs and they don't want to loose the nut. A fastener should be torqued on or off. People who do the loose nut thing forget to tighten the nuts and things fall off. It is much easier and safer to find the nut that fits that stud or better yet use new nuts. I leave you with this... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Z51HgIouwE]Wheels Fall Off RX7 - YouTube[/ame]
Apparently you pay no attention to what I do and have done I was not suggesting fatal mistakes, just ones that cost time.
Appealing to your cheapness...a belt swap is somewhere around 2500 bucks? The full retail price Ferrari labeled belts from Ricambi are under $150 each! Dayco's from other sources are about $85 ea. You can use Reiner method and do the engine out with a couple of floor jacks and some jackstands and a refrigerator dolly.
