355 engine out tips, tricks & tools?

It's selective cheapness. Everything has value. I can not justify a fluids change for $1k at a dealer. Bad value. On the other hand, a major is worth $6-7K for me not to have to do it. . That's about $2k for parts/fluids. So $4-5k labor, about 40 hours ($125/hour). Seems reasonable. Plus, the work is guaranteed. The other thing is that if I were to do it there is no telling when it would be finished.

It's also doing what you like. For example Dave wants to do the major on his car but when it came to vaulting the garage he hired someone. When I got my 355 I needed another garage bay. Adding on did not really work architecturally so I designed and build a separate garage for the 308 out back. Much more enjoyable that doing an engine out. Greater sense of accomplishment.
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Well, that's true for a few reasons:

1) I'm afraid of heights, although I did suprise myself with this project.

2) it was more than a one man job, my buddy is a crew of 2 and they still needed my help (more work then it seemed)

3) I needed to do the job relatively quick, although the dam garage door is still not re-tracked (door company 2 promised Tuesday)

4) not a fan of drywall sanding, no enjoyment of breathing dust

 

If I was ever going to do this, you, Tim, FBB, Ernie would be the first ones that I would invite.

 

Well I'm dead serious about buying Mitchel a plane ticket and room and board when my time comes.

 

I'd chip in on that, even if only to watch.

 

And a week's salary? I assume he has a real job. You don't expect him to take vacation time to do this do you?

 

New Jersey , do a major , sounds like a vacation to me.!

 

Yes, if he spends all his time at the beach.

 

Everyone makes mistakes, It will happen that has never stopped me from tearing anything apart.


Have I screwed up before?? Hell yeah!

 

I like your style.

 

Not sure if anyone posted this but i used this on my engine out and it works perfect.
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I'm doing mine at the moment. All I can suggest is patience and a new Waterpump is a must!!!

 

Impressive. Looks narrow. Any risk of falling over? Got a back shot?

 

for those more handy the 355 waterpump is extremely easy to rebuild. That will save some money. It can be done without the 100 buck special tool with care and knowledge but the special tool makes it a no brainer.

other tips: use rubber vacuum caps to close off severed brake and clutch lines and make sure there are no drips. If you allow fluid to be lost you run the risk of sucking air into your master cylinder which is more work for you.

 

Yes there is a risk of it tipping over just look at it.

Even the 1000 lbs lift posted earlier has a tipping risk thats why you have to be careful with it.

I wouldnt move the assembly around all jacked up, Lower it to the ground to move it around. Just be safe thats all.

 

If I may ask...how did you keep car from tipping back on a 4 post lift without back tires on it?

 

I'm not sure who you are referring to but if you use the factory jack pad areas the chassis will lift off the engine subframe with stability.

 

As I am busy dropping the engine, and the moment is approaching fast that I will have to lower the car +engine onto the dolly that I made (62 * 62 cm on heavy wheels as per the 8 page checklist), I run into a small problem.
The whole combo of engine and transmission is a lot longer than my 62 cm dolly.
Where do I place the dolly exactly to prevent the danger of it tipping over to the front or back?? The middle of the engine frame?
Or the estimated middle between the end of the engine and the end of the transmission?
Or is this the moment that I find out that a 62 * 62 cm dolly actually had to be a 62 * 162 dolly?
I have looked at pics, but I did not find any pics showing exactly where to support it with a 62 * 62 cm surface...

 

Robbe,

That is pretty small. You can find a place underneath the engine and transmission combo to make it balanced, but I would recommend something much longer front to back. 30 inches at least.

 

Thanks, I will adjust the engine dolly to a size that will support at least 2 thirds of the total length then.