Hello! I recently joined the ranks of vintage ownership and have purchased a 1996 330 GTC. I'm super excited about the car and have been out driving her. There is more about that in my other thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/vintage-thru-365-gtc4-sponsored-vintage-driving-machines/467014-out-new-old.html. I'm starting this thread as I have a few decisions to make before I take it in to Patrick Ottis in a few weeks. Patrick and I have been discussing and I've been creating my list of stuff for him to sort for me. I'm a newbie with classic cars - this is my first - but I'm pretty mechanically inclined and not afraid to do some things myself. My goals are to make/keep this car as a pretty-close-to-original safe & clean "driver." I'm not looking to win any shows, though showing it in local settings might be fun. Ultimately though, I am driving and plan to continue driving it - so I'd like it to be safe and reliable. Thanks in advance for any assistance this community can provide! Questions: 1. Exhaust system: The car has a rotted Ansa-type system on it now. Should I replace it with the same type reproduction system or should I have a stainless steel system fabricated? I'm leaning towards the former, but open to others' thoughts. 2. Driver side mirror: The car has a Talbot Jr. bullet mirror on the driver's side door. It's pretty useless, but it's there. It is a post 1971 model mirror though, as it had the green Talbot button on it (which is now missing). I'm guessing the car, which originally shipped in Italy, had no mirror originally and that this one was added by some previous owner. The question here is - do I replace the mirror cone with a 1971+ Talbot mirror cone that has the green dot; or, do I replace the mirror cone with a 1966-era Talbot mirror cone that has the brand stamped into the metal? 3. Cigar lighter: No laughing, but I'd like to be able to plug in my iPhone, but the lighter is stuck in the socket. Any ideas on how to free it? I don't want to rip the socket out of the center console. 4. Keys: I have a presumably original Nieman ignition key and a presumably original Borley glove box/trunk key. These both work fine but I'd like to have duplicates made and store the originals. I've found keys4classics and key-men referenced in other threads. Any suggestions on whom to use? I do not know the key codes, so I'd be sending them hi-res pictures to see if the keys can be made from those, unless someone knows how I might get the key codes for my car, or where I might find them in the car. 5. Keys - Door: I have a presumably reproduction ilco key that is the same style and shape as the Nieman ignition key, but with a different cut pattern. Unfortunately, this key doesn't seem to work for the doors. I tried the ignition key in the doors and it didn't work either. So - any suggestions on how to get the codes for my door locks so I can have those keys made? 6. Tools: The car came with the owner's manual pouch, original owner's manual and original parts manual. It did not come with tools. I see 4 options here - in increasing order of head-ache and expense: a) purchase a duffle bag of serviceable and useful modern tools that I could rely upon in the event of a breakdown while driving the car; b) purchase a set of tools that are not really reproductions but serve the purpose of the originals in functionality, if not design and authenticity (like the ones that GTO Engineering sells); c) purchase a set of reproduction tools (like the ones that Lyle Tanner offers (are there others?)); d) spend then next few years and lots of money scouring the Earth for original tools. Any advice? I'm sure I will have more questions as I continue to shake the car down and get more familiar with it, but this seems like a good place to start! Thanks to Kerry, Tom Yang, Ferrarichat and all the other terrific sources of information on these cars and parts. I've been able to use those resources to gain knowledge and feel confident I wasn't asking ridiculous questions that have been repeatedly answered. Thanks again!
First, congratulations for a fine acquisition. Secondly, I'm quite sure Mr. Ottis & Co. are more than capable to provide you with any and all answers to your questions, probably more so than most here, but here are some of my offerings: 1. All stainless exhaust systems for all vintage application I've ever seen or heard seem to alter the sound, some quite dramatically... 2. Your personal preference should dictate this. 3. Your car may be equipped with a cigarette lighter not intended for actual removal. Consult your owners manual. (To fully enjoy and experience such vintage car, place the turned-off iPhone into glove box or your pocket and remove only in a case of real emergency.) 4. & 5. No experienced advise. 6. Spend the money required for (mostly useless) O.E.M.-type tools on mechanical services and improvements to make the actual car reliable (= enjoyable) and carry only useful tools and/or AAA premium card in case of real problems. Perhaps you could ask yourself a question, would you have been willing to pay more for your car if it had all the "O.E.M."-type tools, since the lack of them obviously didn't prevent you buying it.
Timo is correct in his comments, but a few additions: 1. Timo is correct,stainless will alter the tone and sound. 2. Most period correct mirror is the one found on Alfa Duetto Spiders and Daytona's. Readily available. 3. Timo is correct. 4. I have used "key-men" website with good results. 5. Door key should be VERY different from Neiman ignition key. You may need a locksmith to make a key from the lock itself. SAFE is probably the name of the original blank. 6. Purely your decision.
Whatever you do, do not pull on the cigarette lighter, you will damage it. It is designed to have the cigarette inserted into the lighter and then you push down on the outer black plastic surround, this sends power to the lighter element. Once it is glowing red hot and your cigarette is lit, the black plastic surround pops back up with a click. You then remove your cigarette and puff away. If you want we can install a separate power socket for your IPhone. While the aftermarket stainless exhaust systems last longer, they do not sound the same as an Ansa exhaust. Some (Stebro) are very poorly made. The Timevalve stuff is good but expensive. Brian Brown Patrick Ottis Co.
I'm on my way out the door, but here's a "cut and paste" from the notes I've created as I've owned '66 GTC, #8995. I've had reasonable dealings with both of the key makers you referenced. However, my neighborhood key shop actually had a workable blank for a Ghibli I had some years ago, when "the experts" did not. Congrats and good luck. steve KEYS: The ignition key is Neiman code 41122A corresponds to R61N. Correct blanks are: Ilco #: R61N Dominion #: H61VR Taylor #: D67P Curtis #: AA1 Silca #: NE9A OEM #: Neiman The door key is a Torino S.A.F.E code 2164 correct blanks are: Ilco #: F91C2 Dominion #: SF1 Taylor #: F72Y Curtis #: FT35 Silca #: AF4A OEM #: Torino/SAFE The trunk/glove box key is: Dominion 61E. Im not sure about this key or lock combo, but: Correct blanks are: Equivalent part numbers: Ilco #: F66C Dominion #: 61F Taylor #: F66C Curtis #: FT22 Silca #: AF2C OEM #: SIPEA
I have also rebuilt/restored several systems in the past, but having not yet personally seen the quality of recent introductions of Ansa and other reproductions, can't say for certain if they render such efforts less cost effective in the future. And if note/sound is not of importance, I think stainless exhaust is an excellent choice for owners who do not really intend to drive their cars much with potential benefit that by the time when rest of the car has eventually rotted away, one can still be proud of the exhaust system that has not
Thanks to everyone for your replies. - Sounds like repro period-style exhaust is way to go. I like the old sound! - Thanks, Brian, for the info on the cigar lighter - interesting how it works - I would not have guessed that and I'm glad I didn't try to get the piece out! - Thanks, Steve, for the info on the keys. My glove box key is a Borkey 734 1/2; my ignition is a Neiman (just says made in germany on back); my door (not working) is an Ilco FTA2. Sounds like I don't actually have a door-key - I just have some random Ilco key! Will check with my local locksmiths...
Congrats, great model, miss mine dearly. Last week I was in the shop of René Richem near the Como lake and it is amazing what he has in his boxes, but he also makes reproduction ANSA exhausts. He might be worth contacting, also for your mirror. PARTSCOLLECTORS RICAMBI CLASSIC FERRARI ANSA CARELLO LAMBORGHINI ALFA ROMEO Onno Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here's a kinda funny story - especially since it worked out ok! Yesterday, I was driving my 330 GTC up to Patrick Ottis's so he could take a quick look at the car and show me some options for an exhaust system so we could get one ordered for our scheduled appointment in late November. On the way there, as I accelerated up I80 out of Saturday morning traffic, I shifted up from 2nd to 3rd to 4th - except somehow between 3rd and 4th, something below became disconnected and my gear shift lever was no longer connected to anything - it had no weight to it and it clearly wasn't selecting gears. It didn't make any noise and I didn't feel anything abrupt, but clearly something came apart! I blipped the throttle and eased out the clutch and luckily the car was still in gear - presumably 3rd. I moved to the right lane and cruised along at 5K RPMs for 2-3 miles, until I got to the exit for Patrick's shop. I managed to navigate the tricky intersection at the bottom of the exit ramp and a fair amount of surface street traffic and a few red lights, only using 3rd gear and the clutch! Woo-hoo! No break-down, per se. I pulled into Patrick's and shut her down. And the car was so excited to get there that she peed a puddle of coolant in his parking lot! I think Patrick was in a little disbelief that this could possible happen on the way there (actually, the coolant link is not new - after every drive I get a few tablespoons dripping out until it cools). But he smiled, took my list of stuff to address, showed me a couple exhaust systems (we are looking into getting a classiche ANSA-style system from the UK) and offered to keep the car now for me. Thanks, Patrick! I'm glad the gear shifter broke en-route there instead of on the roads I had been shaking the car down on. Would have been interesting limping home from a drive... Enjoy your weekend!
Regarding your Talbot mirror, I had a 1967 MG with its original aftermarket Talbot Berlin Jr, and it had a green dot, so what's on your car may well be correct.
Interesting. Thank you. The info I got from Talbot was that green dot mirrors weren't made until 1971 - they were all stamped prior. The mystery continues. Though I did look at 2 other 330 GTCs in Patrick's shop yesterday - one had a Talbot Jr that is stamped (and a little smaller than mine) and the other had a square mirror on an arm. I don't think I'm going to spend much time on the mirror issue.
I remember your initial post before your purchase of the GTC and how there were a number of posters who opined that these cars (? can be) as reliable as new, modern cars. The implication was that great maintenance prevents nearly all issues, and to a degree this is correct. There were several pages of posts that addressed these issues, so I decided to withhold my drivel. However, no matter how well one maintains these old cars, some problems, many of great potential significance, can arise. And, as you experienced, a certain amount of luck is always welcome. Some 4-5 years ago, I was just entering the freeway near my house, driving my Kirkham bodied Cobra replica. As I shifted from 2nd to 3rd, the shifter handle broke off the shifter mechanism, right into my hands! The car was in neutral, and fortunately, I was in the far right lane not having had time get over (see what I mean about some luck involved?!). I had no control over the car, only coasting in the right lane, out of any gear. Luckily, I had enough power to crest the hill and coast down to the next exit, where I was able to cross all three lanes to take a right hand exit on to the street where I lived 15 years earlier! The car stopped just in front of my old house!! The owner, to whom I'd sold the house was home, and let me come in to call my wife who dutifully showed up with a pair of locking (she has always called them "lucky") pliers. I was able to grab a broken piece of shifter and get the car into first gear and drove home at 7 mph. Repairing this required the front seats and console to come out of the car to access the broken shifter which only cost $15 to gusset at a local welder. When I was first year resident we learned "that it's always better to be lucky than good". steve
I bet they can be pretty reliable, but I'm not under any delusions - the car is almost 50 years old. Stuff happens. My modern VW and Audi both stranded us at one time or another. Our Lexus has had more electrical and computer issues than anyone should have to deal with. My Honda and Acura have been bulletproof, as have my F430 and California GT. I have no doubt that my 330 GTC will be reliable and give me many years of pleasurable driving once sorted. I'll take mechanical issues over electronic and computer issues any day. And it's certainly nice that the older cars are simpler in general. All the best!
shift linage issue reminds of an item to check, is the condition of the throttle cable at the ball swage ( end stop ) which drops into a fork at the carb linkage... the cable flexes at the swage, after many years of flex breaking the cable strands until all are totally severed... the break is hidden by linkage and cannot readily seen until removed... a length of twine saved my day... by luck I found some twin in the trunk, hooked the twine to the linkage and lead it back to the driver's window, where I could manage the throttle by hand and limp to the repair shop... great image of a nice car being driven by twine from the driver's window :=)
Cheesy, that story is just too funny, but poignant. None of these cars are perfect, even a one, that's for sure. Another thing to check, and of course Patrick will do this, is the master and slave cylinders for the clutch. Luckily, mine failed at work and I was able to work on it in the parking lot to effect a temporary stay of execution until I got it home to replace the whole system. There are a thousand war stories to tell, and all worth hearing over a good Bordeaux or glass of Port. s
And you can add to the list 2 other things to check on; ask Patrick about the shock mounts both front and rear. There have been age/use related failures of both. Both had been repaired long ago on my former car. Probably all cars have been fixed by now, but always good to know…. There may still be some diagrams re the front mounts on Tom Yangs 330 website.
Thanks. Yes - there was actually a factory recall on the front mounts. Patrick looked at mine - never reinforced. He is taking care of that too.
Certainly my experience. Once I had my 365BB and my 330GTC properly sorted, they never let me down. But one needs to drive them. Properly. And often. It certainly looks like you will do that. Enjoy! Onno
Ansa is back, apparently reopened by a former employee. I learned about this from a thread on Tom Yang's site, have not used them personally: Classiche Exhaust LLC - Catalogue
In reference to properly sorted vintage cars, even if the subject is completely restored, it doesn't mean it's going to be "trouble-free" without continued and proper maintenance. For example, although not a Ferrari, but still relatively rare (only 300 originally made and perhaps less than 50 still existing), quite collectible and revered almost 60 year old vintage car valued at several 100K's I'm currently sorting for the current owner who purchased it about 4 years ago in "..with only less than 10(!) miles since full, body-off restoration..." condition. The comprehensive and total "body-off" restoration was performed about 15 years ago on a what appear to have been very, very nice subject (Actually, the current owner had/missed a chance to purchase this exact same car about 25 years ago before its aforementioned restoration and according to him, it was nice enough that he would've not commissioned such undertaking). The restoration, although quite impressive, good enough to earn few of "best of shows" (including recent one at international mark specific clubs annual event) and perhaps rendering the car to be considered, if not THE, at least one of the best examples of its kind in the world, appear to have not been quite "sorted" in the end, possibly due to mind-set of "well, we're not going to drive it much anyway" or something similar, resorting accumulation of only few miles and lots of deferred maintenance subsequent to it sitting in static display in a private collection. I've been sorting (+ documenting) all these (numerous) deferred maintenance and other issues, many quite surprising, for many months and $$'s now, but were getting closer...
Door keys is easy. Remove the tumblers and any key shop can make you keys. You'll have to pull the door cards and carefully remove the hardware but it's easy to do. I don't know about the ferrari but my old benz had codes stamped on tumbler. I still had to pull them to find the code though