as Kevin said engine block #40875 belongs to Espada S2 VIN #8764 Mad Max -, delivered the 19th july 1972 to New York dealer MSCS I planned last year to buy it, but didn't. It was advertised by a German garage earlier this year, since it didn't show up again !
The seller writes in the ad that the engine serial number is 40217 which would match the vin# on this car. Or, Olivier?
engine #40217 matches Espada VIN #7665, it is correct BJJ already explained where to located engine stamp, number is stamped on top of the block between the cylinder heads, just remove the cooling water tube or it is easier on this example... Image Unavailable, Please Login
The seller presumably just took the number from the badge. Since the cooling pipe is still mounted, he likely did not verify the badge number by inspection of the block stamp. It is almost impossible to read the stamp with the pipe in place, and even less possible, if this space is somewhat grubby. And, compare with the spare parts lists of Jarama and Espada. You will see that e.g. the oil filter is under the engines front and not like in this cars engine. The casting of the left hand cylinder head is different between pre-Espada and Espada/Jarama also (among other less evident differences). Looking at the spare parts lists of Islero, 400GT will give further evidence. All being downloadable from this great site http://www.inrodaggio.com/html/body_downloads1.html By the way, I own and maintain (myself) both, 1969 Espada and 1970 Jarama
I'm speechless! Did someone really think this was a good idea? Lamborghini Espada Series 2 | eBay Good weekend to all. Mark.
It's a well known if not well executed "modification". Yes, strictly amateurish. Given what's needed to execute a proper convertible modification is it reasonable to think of this as little more than a parts car? FAIL.
"Executed" is definitely one way to describe that monster. Someone's taken a sledgehammer to everything that's great about the Espada and completely and utterly destroyed it.
Bonjour Olivier, J'ai aussi, comme vous, hésité à acheter cette "Mad Max", mais ai quand même été freiné par quelques points, dont l'homologation, aurait elle pu rouler en France ou aurait il fallu l'homologuer suite au modifications faites ? Cordialement,
en homologation à titre isolé en véhicule de collection, elle aurait pu être immatriculée en Belgique sans problème. c'est le capot avant, les jantes HRE, les sièges avant qui m'ont freiné...
Parait-il que les sièges d'origines été vendus avec. Quatre jantes d'Espada en magnésium d'origines étaient à vendre il y a peu pour 1000e, par contre il n'y avait rien à faire pour le capot..
Hello, if there is the owner of Espada #7470 on the board - I found the copy of the bill of the car from Hubert Hahne in 1970. If its needed for the history file - let me know via PM and I will send it. Best, kuntatsch
Hello everyone, I recently acquired Espada 9654 which has resided in Norway since late 2005 and prior to that was in Germany, where it was originally delivered. I've spent quite a bit time here reading and learning and I hope to be able to contribute to the discussion. One the tasks the car will need when I get it is to set the proper tension on the chains. In order to do so I'll place the cams in the specified #1 cylinder TDC placement and loosen the cam sprockets and then follow the procedure relative to the chain tensioners. There are several references describing the placement of the cams at #1 TDC but there is conflicting information. Which one is correct? Attached is the page from the "Manuale d'Officina Espada - Jarama L 403". Page 24 shows the measurements for Cylinders 1,6,8 and 9, respectively to be: 8.271mm, 2.536, 4.893 and 8.211 The next attachment is from the document entitled "Espada Istruzioni Tecniche" for the 400GT Espada. No date on it. The dimensions for this one are for cylinders 4, null, 8 and 9: .15mm, null, 4.85 and 8.05. Incredibly, there is no position called for for the RHS intake cam. and cylinders 8 and 9 have slightly different numbers. The engine rebuild document put together by Jack R. calls for the same numbers as Istruzioni Tecniche for cylinders 1 8 and 9 but for #6 it calls for 2.45, which is different than the Manuale D'Officina. One last document of unknown origin (found on GT400.com) shows the same numbers as Jack's manual. Is it correct? I realize the numbers are not that far from one reference to another but why bother calling it out to 3 decimals(!) on one reference only to then imply that "...4.85 is pretty close to 4.893..." Can anyone shed some light into this?? Thanks in advance! Luis Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Luis, I am a little confused on what you want to accomplish. I read it as you only want to adjust the chains, which I believe is described in Jacks manual and should have nothing to do with sprocket or cam adjustments. Once done it may be a good idea to double check that the cam notches on each of the 4 cams are closely aligned as shown in your p24 attachment. If the marks are not close to lining up, then a small cam adjustment may be called for, but note that the circular vernier (sprocket and cam holes with a pin) is quantized at (accurate within) 1.5 cam degrees (the product of the number of holes in the two plates divided by 360, 16*15/360=1.5). If you for some reason dont trust the marks on the cams or doubt that the correct cams are installed in the correct places, then that can be verified too. Laust
Hi Laust, thanks for your reply. My thought in freeing up the cam sprockets is two-fold. One, as you said, I'd like to verify that the marks are accurate. Second, I can't envision how taking up tension on the side of the chain where the tensioner is located would help remove any excess chain slack that may exist between the cam sprockets if the cams/sprockets are fixed and in position, thus unable to move and take up that slack. Am I thinking of this wrong?
Hmm, yes. The crank engages two large gearwheels, each of which has a chain attached which in turn drive the cams for each bank. Therefore the cams rotate in the opposite direction of the crank (which turns clockwise as seen from the front). In other words the chain adjustment mechanism is located on the slack (non-tension) side of the chain. Laust
The only issue to take care of is to turn the crank a little bit in running direction and "against" a opening valve prior to adjustment, in order to ensure that the tension side of the chain is maximum tensioned (as under running conditions) and the slack side maximum slacked.
Thanks for the advice Laust and Bernhard. Do any of you know which of the diagrams/distances is correct in my original post?
I dont, since I prefer to use a more accurate and relevant cam centerline method for cam shaft phasing, in case i didn't trust the markings.
He probably means to measure the lift at the tappet with a mechanical precision gauge, which is fixed to the head and with the probe contacting the tappet surface. You either search for the maximum value (not extremely exact) or take a series of measurements with an angle disc (correct english word?) additionally fixed to the camshaft and make a graph lift versus angle, from which you then can take the exact angle for the maximum value and adjust accordingly.
Me neither, because I never did it that way. By the way, I never would trust the factory instructions, and always cross-check them for plausibility. In the owners manual of my Jarama even the indicated firing order is incorrect .... .
Apparently, the glass roof is not unique. At the 50th anniversary in Italy there was another red Espada from the UK (license plate HPC 1K) with the same style glass roof.
true, it belongs to Harry Metcalfe and was featured in Octane 50 Giro reportage. But If I'm correct, this one is aftermarket.
