360 Failed Emissions. Does anyone have the Drive Cycle?

This is exactly what I do.

 

This is the deal on the 1999 360 readiness. The Oxygen sensors will never show as ready. Never. Because on the 1999s the OBDII computer is looking for feedback on the O2 heaters. Well, the heater's (left bank only) function is to control the secondary air injection system, that the 1999s don't have yet, until model year 2000. So, the readiness will always show, "not ready." And the heater circuit has to set before the actual test for the O2 sensor function test can begin. Therefore, both of these O2 circuit will stay open or "not ready." So you can drive thousands of miles and drive cycle your life away and they won't ever be ready, unless your car has the secondary air injection system. The evap readiness is variable and goes in and out depending on fuel level in tank. Keep the tank at least half empty and it will set more often. I have a little more data on this upon request, but that's basically it. Good Luck.

 

Thanks to wilsemail for the tip. I finally passed the smog yesterday using his tip.
Drove the car for about 20 min then went to the test station with less than 3/4 full of the fuel tank.
The car passed the tailpipe test without any problem but failed the OBD-II readiness test.
Turn off the car for about 5 sec then retest the OBD-II readiness test - PASSED!!!!
The trick was turning off the car for 5 sec or so then turn her back on for the OBD-II test.

wilsemail - ya da man!

 

I can vouch for the drive cycle. I had to replace the battery, and needed to get my emissions inspection the same day. I followed the drive cycle posted in this thread, and passed. (I live in CT by the way.) There was only one system showing as not ready, but you apparently can pass in CT with one system showing not ready. Thanks for all the good advice.

--Charlie

 

So I have the same issue with my '99 360. I have three readiness tests reading "INC". Both O2 sensors which I understand from the above comments will never say "READY", and the Evap Monitor is also saying "INC".

Virginia will allow me to pass with up to two not being ready. Is there some trick to getting the Evap monitor to say ready? I realized from the above posts that it triggers more on less fuel. I just now got it back down to about a half tank, so perhaps I need to drive it a bit more? Or is there some other trick I can try?

At what point should I take it in to a dealer (in my case Ferrari of Washington) to see if there is something else amiss?

I have a hand held OBD II tester so I can check it myself... No engine codes the only thing it tells me is that some of the readiness tests have not passed. Then lists them as the O2 and Evap monitors. It even has a "Drive Cycle" monitor mode that looks like it will watch the monitors as I drive. Any issues with using this function?

I have a copy of the official drive cycle but the trick is being able to properly complete it in my area...

I know in California you guys have "referees" that can pass the car, but here in Virginia I am not sure we have the same. At least not that I have been able to find.

Scott

 

Just went through this it took 150 miles and still one code. They passed it with one code here in Texas. Boardwalk Ferrari said drive it at least 100 miles. What a treat a free pass to go out and drive. Have fun.

 

Just to check, did you replace both o2 sensors at the end of the cat-back? Maybe with less than $200 you can solve the problem. Since you you have a 99 Modena your manifold dont have a pre-cat so you dont have to worry about those. Just try that it could work.

My two cents.

 

I just picked the car up last week but have put over 350 miles on it... Highway and back roads and still have three saying "INC". I have 160 miles on this tank and am now down to about a 1/4 tank left. I'm beginning to think that no amount of miles is going to do it here.

I have not looked into replacing the O2 sensors but would be willing to go that route. Are O2 sensors generic that should be available anywhere? Or do they have to come in a little yellow box with horsies on them?

 

Hi Everyone,

I have the same problem with my 2001 360 F1. I turn the battery switch off after every drive. I had no idea it resets the OBD System Monitors. This morning I turned the battery switch on and drove the car about 50 miles and then went to the emissions test center (in Chicago). The car was “REJECTED” based upon the following two system monitors: “Catalytic Converter EFF” – Not Ready and “Secondary Air System” – Not Ready. Five other system monitors were checked and were “Ready”. They were: Comprensive (Sic?) Component, Engine Misfire, Evaporative Control System, Heated Oxygen Sensor, Fuel System Performance. The emission test print-out also indicated the “Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) was off and there were no stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTC).

Guys – I know nothing about OBD. My plan is to drive the car according to the Ferrari drive cycle and then retest. But before I retest - If I buy an OBD scanner can I check to see if the two system monitors that failed get triggered to “ready”? Will a scanner display this information? Do you need a list of codes and their meaning to understand what the scanner is displaying? Can anyone recommend a good scanner or are they all basically the same? My thinking is why even retest until I know for sure the OBD system monitors are ready.

Thanks for your imput,

- Richard

 

Richard,

Yes I bought an OBD Scanner at Autozone for about $200 and am using it to check my codes. So you should definitely be able to buy one and do the same.

Good luck,
Scott

 

The guys at the smog station told me that if the OBD is reset (battery disconnected, ECU reflash, for example) you need to drive at least 100 miles to get to "ready." All cars, not just Ferraris.

 

You don't need new oxygen sensors. The Ferrari Drive Cycle works, but the 1999 (only) is different. Don't wait for the O2 sensors to get ready. They won't. And the dealer can't help you because there is no reflash of the program or any outstanding recalls or anything. If the dealer passes the car for you, they most likely side stepped somehow to pass it. Which I don't blame them for because the 1999 Ferrari should be on the list of troubled cars. Focus on catching the EVAP readiness as it comes and goes. Most, if not all, smog check stations leave the engine running during the period between checking the tailpipe emissions and running the OBDII test. You must tell the smog tech guy to briefly shut off the engine for 5 seconds and then continue to the OBDII test. The EVAP system readiness is very touchy. If you use a scanner to test the readiness of it, it resets itself to not ready. Have a little more than half a tank of gas, let the car idle for a while, about 10 minutes, don't check it's readiness and shut off between these two phases of the test. If you shut off the car briefly and start, it sets to ready. I know it sounds quirky, but I've been dealing with this for a few years now and have perfected the process. The sad part about all this, is that every time you fail an emissions test, that silly AutoCheck/Carfax report for your car reports a failed emissions test, which essentially lowers your score. That whole AutoCheck/Carfax report needs all kinds of work. So, follow the process. Print this section and my other comment earlier and let the smog guy read it. It's not illegal for him to do this because the EVAP system is working properly. It's just the way the readiness registers on these first few models was a little quirky. PS Don't count on California referee stations to pass these cars because they don't do that courtesy first time pass thing anymore. They'll make you take it to the dealer for repairs that don't exist and make you come back with a 'done nothing' receipt for $500 or whatever amount you gotta pay first before you go to their next process. It's looped.

 

In my state (Virginia) it appears that they do the readiness state first, and if it is not ready they don't do the tail pipe test. At least that is what happened in my case, I never got to the tail pipe test because the computer kicked out the not ready report.

I understand that in the '99s at least, the O2 sensors will never say ready. So I have been trying to focus on the Evap Sensor.

So now I guess checking it on my own with a hand held ODB II tester is a waste of time as well? I've tried to let it idle for 10 minutes and even tried turning the car off for five to ten seconds and restarted and never get the Evap Monitor to say ready.

I figured testing it with my hand held OBD II scanner would at least verify that yes in fact the Evap Monitor was working. Is there any way that I can at least use the hand held OBD II scanner to show it passing before I take it to the emissions place?

Is this Evap monitor in an easy place to get to? Is this something that could possibly have gone bad and need to be replaced?

I spoke to the previous owner (another FChatter) and he did the drive cycle as posted here but stated that he never could get the Evap Monitor to come on. Perhaps I should reset everything and start over? The shop where I get the emissions done has a dyno they use for Emissions tests. If I give them the drive cycle could it be done properly on a dyno?


Or is this simply a test of patience?

 

I am currently experiencing problems getting my 2001 360 F1 inspected. I just purchased this car from out of state so am a Ferrari newbie, are all the above suggestions only for the 1999 model? It first failed the evap test code P0442, fixed that. Went back after clearing code, I had to also turn my battery disconnect off, was not aware that would reset all the sensors/monitors. The third time after driving it about 60 miles and also turning off/turning on car 4-6 times it failed due to:
Heated Cat-N/S
Evap - Not Ready
2nd Sys - Not Ready
Air Cond - N/S
EGR Sys - N/S
O2 Sens - Ready
O2 Sensor Htr - Ready
DLC - Pass
misfire, fuel sys, comp Cmpnt, catalyst all = ready

The car is equipped with a Tubi Exhaust and Fabspeed Test pipes.

Should I try the above procedure recommended by Wilsemail?

 

Purchase a generic scanner. They're cheap now. Monitor your car's readiness status before taking it in again. I'd focus on the secondary air injection system to set as ready. The '99 rules don't apply to the air injection aspect of your car because your car actually has the air injection system, the '99 doesn't. (Hopefully still connected) Sounds to me like you need to do some more driving or follow the drive cycle a little closer.

 

Not sure if this is the answer but it won't hurt to try. You say you did the battery disconnect, which caused a reset. You can't just go get a smog check after that (or after any ECU reflash). OBDII equipped cars need to be driven ~ 100 miles after a reset to ensure the system has an adequate baseline to compare against faults.

 

In cali you can have 2/5 or 3/7 DC's not set and be ok to do a smog test. Ask your smog guy for the most current rule on DC's. Even japanese cars are having this problem and the state knows it which is why 100% of the DC's do not have to be working.

 

Correct up to 2000. 2001 and newer only 1/5.

 

My 360 failed emissions after the battery was disconnected. I did he drive cycle and passed with flying colors in CT.

 

I'm surprised CT even hooks up to the OBD port, but as my local emissions shop takes the car around to the back of their building I have no idea!