Try swapping the ignition control modules. Also completely remove the cat temperature control units from the engine bay. And I mean COMPLETELY out of the car.
+1 I read the entire post today 'cause its zero outside and I'm waiting for Fedex to drop of some Denso COP connectors. Anyway.. The OP witnesses fuel pressure but he have no gauge numbers, cracking the line may look like pressure but is it 50ish? The OP witnesses spark but we don't know the Ohm readings on the wires, or the coil pack, and I don't recall if he swapped ignition modules yet?? Some have reported bad Crk sensors even if they look good. I think there is a Hyundai sensor that works for theses cars. Gotta clean all your electrical connections/Gnds, especailly if it driven in the rain or you live near salt air. The Stooges will figure it out I'm sure of it. Or set it on fire....
One more thing you can try. The male and female pins inside the round connector for the fuel injectors (located just under the plenum) could have a connection issue? So you may want to remove them and inspect the condition of the wiring behind the boots, and the female pins. Try swapping the fuel injector connector blocks/strips from side to side and see if the problem jumps.
Thank you for the great advice. I did spray starter fluid into the MAF right bank and the engine did pickup and run better. I have not put a fuel pressure gauge to the fule rail. It give me an excuse to buy an new tool. We did change out both crank position sensors. And the fuse box. I have not swapped the ignition module, only the coil packs. I will check the ground and remove the Cat ECU. There are no CEL on or any slow down lights on either side, they do all light up when we put the key in but go out when we start the car. I will also change out the fuel filter but I kniw I'm not getting power to the right fuel pump. I will check these things you all recommend. I can't thank you all enough! We were getting discuraged but you have given us hope again! Thank you!
So it sounds like you have spark on both banks but one fuel pump is not functioning? I have just tracked down a similar problem. I jumpered my fuel pumps from under the car with an external battery. This made it so I could run the car. Here is what I think I've learned. For the top fuel pump relay, you should have power at the top socket in the fuse panel at all times. The right socket should be energized when you turn on the key. The left one should be sent a ground signal from the ecu under the appropriate circumstances, i.e., when the starter is turning the motor over or it is running. Someone else told me the engine needs to be turning at a minimum of 30rpm for this to occur. When this happens the bottom socket, which goes to the fuel pump, is energized. You might try jumping the fuel pump from under the car like I did. Positive to the 8mm bolt and negative to the 10mm bolt. You can do this with the fuel pump relay removed. Then after it is running you can check to see if the left hand socket for that relay is grounded.
You've been at it for over 4 months now. I commend your perseverance, you have the diagnostic patience of a saint!
If it runs after you hotwire the pump,disable the circuit you currently have to the right fuel pump. Install a new fused relay that is triggered by the left pump coming on to run the right side pump. You can buy the relay at any auto parts store.
For a temporary repair! Weird wiring for the future is not a win. I hope people will fix these cars correctly. Kludgey repairs that get resold to the next owner debase the value of our cars when too many people do them. I say if you can't fix it right pay a professional.
I intended on it being a temporary repair until he got a new fusebox but i see that he has already changed that out.
Sorry for the delay in responding. Got busy with other projects and finally got back to working on the car. I guess we got alittle discouraged. I did wire the right Fuel pump directly to the battery with inline fuse for testing purposes only and started the car an it made no differences. We spent most of the day performing the Montronic 2.7 Ferrari Diagnostic Procedures listed on Ferrari Chat. We got to step 23 which is "check voltage to engine timing sensor (only 1-4). Testing terminals 12 and 19 at the wiring harness with ECU removed and got 0 volts with in the comments states replace ECU. And. Have swapped right and left ECU and it made no differences. I'm not sure if I something wrong in the testing. Everything up to step 23 was just as expected. My wife reminded me the car has been broken for almost a year. ;(
Sorry it's not working out for you. I can't think of anything else the other guys haven't covered, but if you ever do decide to give up please contact me I'd probably take it off your hands. I love hopeless basket cases.
Have you inspected the connectors for the injectors yet? The round connectors under the intake plenum, and the condition of the individual injector clips? Are the male and female pins in the round connectors clean and making good contact? Are the wires behind the boots in good shape? Is the round connector twisted all the way in place? Are the female pins on for individual injectors in good condition, and are the wires in good shape? Check the injection connectors, and again, maybe even swap them from side to side to see if the issue jumps sides.
Right bank ECU connector/wiring? Do each wire in turn with end to end check from the connector receptacles to each accessory/position served. The jiggery pokery that has to take place to get those ECU loom connectors through their bulkhead holes is immense, and that has to happen every 3~5years for those regular belt changes!
Ok. Just re-read through all of this (and your PM). You can't test step 23, since it is actually testing the 5v being sent BY the ECU to the cam sensor. You would need the test harness in place, or, you could pull the plug at the cam sensor while the ECU is one and check the voltage at the wires plugging INTO the sensor. At this point, after so much money and hunting, perhaps you can back up and provide some additional data? While I'm not afraid to swap parts, there is a pretty clear diagnostic for something this severe. I'm concerned that the failure to find the cause is due to something that we are not understanding properly, or an incorrect assumption on your part of something being functional, when it is not, or improper test technique. 1. First and foremost, when you say the 1-4 bank is not running. Are you 100% certain it is not running AT ALL? If so, exactly how was this confirmed? 2. What led up to the issue? Did you start it and it ran bad suddenly, or were you driving when it suddenly stalled, and then would not run right? Were you accelerating hard before the issue? Details here are very helpful. 3. As it sits right now, without resorting to a recap of all that's been done, what happens if you try to start the car? Does it run at all? What happens if you try to accelerate? Stall? Backfire? Will it idle at all? Will it not even run? 4. When you start the car, do the Check Engine lights on the 1-4 illuminate? What about the 5-8? I can tell you from personal experience that some components can appear OK by many measures, but still be malfunctioning. MAFs are a great example. My MAF was clean, read the proverbial 383 Ohms, could go days without throwing a CEL, and yet, was broke as a joke! Replaced it and my car went from high idle, stalling, backfiring, etc to running like a new car. I consider myself pretty darn familiar with these vehicles, and that humbled me. Hang in there. I'm confident we can narrow it down if you are willing to do some more diagnostics and provide some solid, objective info. When you do test, please provide very specific details on the procedure you use so we can make certain you aren't testing something improperly-- it can be easy to do.
Someone has said it: fuel, spark, compression. Breaking it down further: fuel: 1) measure actual fuel pressure on the fuel rail side of the filter with a gauge 2) check that each of the injectors are firing using a noid light 3) run a fuel quantity test (less likely here since it won't even idle) Spark: install in-line spark tester between plug and wire. Check them all. Compression: run compression test to verify timing didn't slip. These tests take some time, but they always answer questions with enough certainty for me to move forward before buying parts or fooling with wiring. They are the first fork in the troubleshooting tree, and have saved me countless hours. I only skip them when something is obvious, like last week I was fixing an Acura that had powering steering leak and cam sensor codes and was in limp mode. That was a no-brainer, fix leak and clean the sensor grounds where the fluid was spraying, no trouble tree required. Mysterious "half my engine stopped working" means ya gotta get hard evidence about which one of the trinity are missing.
Have you tried changing the Fuel Pressure Regulator on the bad side? You can try this if you have difficulties getting the tool to read the fuel pressure.
Is the ECU toast? Seems you went over everything else. I would do the compression test first to see if the motor is healthy enough to start Is the ECU toast? Seems you went over everything else. 40 psi should be at the fuel rails If you have compression and fuel your problem is electronic FBB and Plugzit Road trip hehehehe
I'm sure I recall testing 23 when I had another problem way back, I used a breakout box so I coul measure most parameters whilst the engine was running
I had this issue last year. One side of the engine went down. Long story short, I replaced all the harness connectors on the ECU side which had the problem. She fired right back up. Careful inspection of the harness pins showed considerable corrosion issues. I changed out the other side ECU harness connector and new pins. Haven't experienced any further issues.
Just a quick revive of this old thread to see if the OP solved the issue. My car has been running flawlessly on its daily runs until yesterday morning; I started the car up and the idle was rough and unbalanced (no warning lights) followed by a stall at idle. I restarted and gave a slight jiggle to the plug highlighted in red below, and order was restored. On this morning's run, the car continued to run strong until I lost a bank about 15 minutes in. Pulled over, removed the plug and reconnected it to correct the issue only to have to the issue reappear 2 minutes later. No warning lights through the whole ordeal apart from a brief appearance of a slow down light from the other bank. I presume the issue lies in the loom (highlighted below in blue and devoid of a part number(?) ) but will swap the coils before my run tomorrow to see if we can rule out failure in those components. Image Unavailable, Please Login
A few possibilities. Faulty soldering in the coil power module (the unit looks like it's sealed). Female sockets in the plug too loose Bent or corroded pins. Try using DeOxit D5 on the pins and sockets and swapping power packs. New modules seem to be readily available. https://www.motor-doctor.co.uk/products/668873-switch-unit-ignition-system Bosch 0227100200?
