Can anyone tell me why there are 2 line-marks on the camshafts? There is a long one, and a few mm away a shorter one. Finally got to spend some time with 435, the r/h bank is perfectly timed on the long marks, the l/h bank is quite a few degrees off and advanced. The l/h chain was very slack on dis-assembly of the head, and a miracle valves never touched anything. The chain itself hasn't stretched all that much, there is still plenty adjustment. So now I have to do what I was hoping toavoid, the cam-wheels themselves need to be re-adjusted. I am not enjoying this with the engine in the car. Best, Jack.
Hi Jack The timing for the left head is the short marks when the right is on the mark (long there is only one. the details are in the hand book. I think I have mentioned this before. The cams are fully verifiable and as I have found a lot cams have had the chains removed by undoing the front cam nut, The marks on the cam are only an assembly guide and when setup correctly they are about .5 mm different. This might help Graeme Image Unavailable, Please Login
@ Julian: Yes I will. @ Graeme: Thanks, I admit I didn't even look at the handbook! I am doing this with cyl 1 at TDC, so the long marks should apply. Bummer, I don't have micrometers for accurately degreeing the cams, nor can I see how one would do this with the engine in situ and all accessories bolted onto the engine, there isn't even space nor a central nut to mount a degree wheel to the crank. I may have to trust the marks for their accuracy. Also I remember Bart had a bear of a time to undo the nuts on the cams due to their high torque setting. Imagine the strain on the chain one has to apply to undo or torque the nut with the method Graeme describes above for cam-removal. If only Maserati had followed Jaguar's lead and copied the arrangement of the XK-engine... Best, Jack.
Hi Jack, Following what Graeme already pointed out here is the Information I found in my documents: The LH camshafts have two sets of marks (short and long) because you can either time the cams to No 1 cylinder, which is on the RH bank, or you can time it to No 8 cylinder, which is on the LH bank but 90 degrees different in timing terms. The basic rule is: Set No 1 @ TDC use short lines on R/H head, keeping No 1 @ TDC use longer lines on L/H head. The short lines on L/H head are for timing/dialing in using No 8 @ TDC which is 90 degrees away from No 1 @ TDC. Best regards, Armaz
Hi Jack, You can set the cam shaft timing with the engine in place. It is a bit of a pain but doable. You have to undo all the auxilliary stuff to get to it. On a LHD car you have to undo the steering column in the interior to get the left bank exhaust cover off an get access to the cam bearing caps. For a RHD it is the right bank... This will keep you out of the bars for a bit. If the chain gear lock nuts do not come off relatively easy take the cam out and produce a proper clamp around the nearest cam. I put that assembly in a vice and it took a socket with a 1.5 meter(!) lever and quite some force to undo the damned nut. The fine pitch is of such a kind that these nuts lock themselves over time! It is a hassle but 50% of the problem is solved when you start working on it. You will have to do it anyhow! Good luck and regards from Zanzibar, Bart
Guys there is a hex plug on the other end of each cam you can use to resist the torque on the cam nut. Measuring the lift on the cam is one way using the old method of the protractor to "dial in the Cam" is another. It is worth investing in some dial guages and magnetic tool rest attachment across the cam caring caps . Magnet Base Dial Guage | eBay Well worth the investment Graeme
Thanks Graeme, I was unaware of the hex plug.Yes, I need to get one or 2 dials, and perhaps fabricate a bracket, as the magnet won't attach to much on this engine. The whole process is still a pita, but I need to stop procratinating. Best, Jack.
Jack the other thing to do is make an adapter to drive the crank via the front belt pulley. We made one with a 6 or 10mm flat plate with two holes drilled for two of the pulley bolt holes, we used longer bolts and spacers to clear the other two bolts, and an old 1/2 inch socket welded on the center of the plate. Best access is take the spare out and you can turn the engine over ( take the plugs out) from the front with a T bar makes life much easier. Put a big mirror under the Fly wheel hole set up so you can see TDC and tourch helps or if you are feeling fancy a remote camera looking straight up at the fly wheel. Graeme
The torque I needed to apply to undo the lock nut would for sure have broken the plug! But one can always give it a shot! Success, Bart
If its that tight you may need to take the cam out just to loosen the nut. you could also tray releasing the front cam bearing cap and putting a strip of paper under the cap to lock the cam. Graeme
Hello all, A nice shot I just found from the Turin show 1974. Look how modern the K seems compared to the plain road cars in the background! The silver QPII is a AM123.008 which I found in Spain for a French collector in 2013, it also did the Paris Barcelona and Brussels shows according to Fabio Collina and is the one seen in all the QPII brochures, silver, the only one of 13 with headlight wipers. Best regards, Marc Image Unavailable, Please Login
... and, Marc, apologies for hi-jacking the Khamsin thread on this occasion. It is a unique picture, and one that also appears in the official centenary book (page 155). Cheers, Gabriel
Hi Gabriel, No problem I was off topic myself with the QPII though it is center of photo. I did not know this shot was in that book, have not bought it yet. Great for you to see your car at the show Best regards, Marc
Another car back from a deep sleep. The car has been laid up for 12 years and the owner has recently out her back on the road in order to sell her. Welcome to the web site of the Maserati Club The number is AM 120 415 and I viewed her this weekend. Mileage is around 45,000 originally sold in November 1979 to a gentlemen in North East England. It has had one two other owners and has been in storage since 2003. The car is completely original but needs some work to bring her back to her best including body work and the LHM system. Two people viewed the car. Unfortunately my offer was not accepted and it sold to another Maserati club member for a decent premium to the £50k asking price. As a result I am still looking for a RHD Khamsin so if anyone plans on selling I'd appreciate it if they got in contact.
Hello and thank you for the information: here is what I had on 415, not much so yet another coming out of the woodwork! "K 415 Heywood data KWU 2 V Red cream manual Duncan Reynolds" It is good to know it was well preserved because a slew of right hand drive cars rotted away long ago due to the humid UK climate. Look forward to hearing more about it. Don't know of any right hand drive cars for sale right now, sorry. Best regards, Marc
Hi Marc Yes thats the one. Its Red with Cream leather and with Factory fitted fog lamps on the front. I believe Duncan died in 2002 and he left it to his brother who is now selling it. they used to run the car between 1993 and 2002 and during this time they went on many trips including to France and to the nurburgring. I believe its gone to a good home in the UK and hopefully will be restored but after sitting for 12 years Its difficult to know how much work will be involved to restore it but it seems structurally sound and the engine is running as well as could be expected. Hopefully the new owner will be in contact in the future.
Gents, On my K268, the Speedometer cable has been fried by the heat from the exhaust manifold. I would like to replace the cable, but it seems impossible to get the "Screw at the keeping the cable end in place" on top of the gearbox. Any experience to get to this screw without moving the gerabox? Any advice on how to shield the cable against the heat from exhaust manifold? Thanks beforehand Carsten
Hi Carsten, I will let the workshop specialists answer you but I wanted to say that in all these years I have never heard of this happening thus it would seem that for whatever reason part of the speedo cable found itself in the WRONG place too close to the exhaust so perhaps one of the fixations holding its sleeve in place broke and let it get too close to the heat. We both know the car has some special order options but I don't think any of them involved rerouting the throttle cable unless the 4th pedal for the autostrada additional headlight flashing caused such a rerouting... Best of luck with it. Marc
I just bought a Khamsin Maserati and I have to redi the full painting and interior. From Maserati Classiche I know that new teh car was Tabacco and beige interior Can someone give me some pictures on this combination or already each individually. Where can I find more info on this?? And should I really stick to it for the best of teh car (and his value)?? Because I really like also Khamsins with teh black/red interior. But then the outside colour is difficult to choose. Please your advise is very welcome
Welcome and congratulations Mr van Genechten! Please let me have the chassis number (AM120____) and I will happily share with you what I know of its history, here or privately by email. Tabacco was a very rare color on Khamsins and with beige it is a very handsome color combination which suits the K very well in terms of showing the design and in terms of not being a crude color. There has been in recent years a welcome tendency to return cars to their original color, much better, wiser and more eye pleasing than resale red applied to too many of them in the past. If you are coming to Retromobile I will be there from Tuesday evening to Friday. My email is: [email protected] Best regards, Marc Sonnery Maserati Khamsin Registry
Hello Van... If you go to Ivan Ruiz's website The Car Nut - Maserati and Jaguar Cars you will find some paint chip colors available for the Khamsin.. Go to Maserati Manuals page and look for the paint chips.. Perhaps you will find what you are looking for there... Mike
