356 Pre A Resto Begins

The motor is out of the car and is disassembled for detailing. I do not have the #s matching engine- though it's period correct. The trans is original and still in the car, attached to the transaxle. The car ran exceptionally well when I started the restoration.


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Jay while car is apart - I suggest rebuild your ZF Steering Box; rebuild your carbies; put in a new wiring loom; and reline drum brakes and replace all lines .

 

All great ideas ross. I already have the new "YZF" I think that's what it's called, wiring harness. The carbs have been sent out (I'm running webbers), and I'm gonna do the Knect air cleaners with adapters. The brakes were fine, though I will replace the lines with nice clean new ones.

 

I love Webers. Might get a t-shirt done😄

 

What about your steering box...

 

I look forward to seeing your car in paint. Wish Id bought up a few more speedster projects 10 years ago when they were 40-50k. They are a joy to restore.

 

Being a '58, my car has the ZF box. I have got to say this is so much better than the previous box, and really makes the car more driver friendly. In addition '58 was the first year of the gear shift lever being in the correct position ie. switched with the heater knob

 

Ok guys we're up and operational again after a 4 month gap holiday.
Lots of progress on the 53- nearing completion of metal work- shopping for parts with some great finds over Xmas. Pics show work underway on front guards which we have replaced
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More pics
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More Pics including some parts finds
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Trial fit bumpers and rear lights
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And front bumper
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Ross, the 356 toy and lit show is coming up in March in LA


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Hope to get there Jay as ski trip week before so its on way home

 

This month we have removed the Pre A off our jig & setup on trolley. Metal preparation for Polyester application & Polyester Phase has commenced. The next phase will focus on panel profiles and panel gaps and getting these completed for the base primer stage
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Ross, will you be setting the gaps to 3/8" with lead as per original, wend new metal (my choice), or epoxy?

 

Hi Jay. We use 4mm gaps as per factory, if required add new metal ( its easier to work the steel and get a strong edge) or second choice epoxy. Avoid lead due health issues. The old gaps where previous repairs have been undertaken are quite tight so we will remove all the lead and reset these gaps. New panels have been set up with 4 mm gaps already.

 

Ross, looking great.

Do you have a good source for the OEM shine-down license plate lights? I need one for my 356A - currently have a repro.

 

Thanks for compliment Jon. Im afraid however i dont have an OEM source for lights. Keep your eye on eBay and 356 Registery classifieds- im sure in time a decent shine down will come up that you can restore.

 

Getting to the fun part now- metal Prep completed (save for mending orig rear deck lid).
Paint prep/Polyester Phase now well advanced on both the Pre A and her stablemate -the 59 Sunroof Coupe which is progressing in tandem.
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The 1500 Super motor with Hirth roller crank is at last in the workshop to commence the build - taken a long time to complete the parts list and plenty of $$$s

 

Hope you will post some shots of the engine rebuild as well.

New to me, this '55 Speedster. 80847. Some issues with previous repairs (would not be fun otherwise) but for the most part, the car is in pretty good shape. All removable panels are correct with 847 stamped on them. Engine is period correct but not # matching. The hunt is on to acquire the original engine stamped: 35693.
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Congrats on your new project- looks a beauty .
Ill begin posting on the engine rebuild in a few weeks . Conundrum is rebuilding the Hirth roller bearing Crank . My local contact has just retired before doing this work due ill health. Reading thru posts from on the 356 Registry website the popular wisdom is to use the RB Crank as a door stop or lamp stand and install a plain bearing Crank . The Hirth RB was designed for hi reving use not daily driving and according to experts is at risk of seizing due poor oil flow at low rpm. Would appreciate anybfeedback from early Pre A owners on their experiences. Originality v practically

 

I'm hoping one of you rockstar bodywork wizards goes off with a vintage Porsche - ala Tom Mead style - as in outrageous with wings, louvers, scoops and shizzle

 

Roller bearing cranks were used to get around the use of 2 piece connecting rods. Connecting rod bolts were the weak link until better metallurgy came along. There was also the myth that roller bearings had less friction. No one will see what is inside your engine. They also won't know if it is bored and stroked. Wilhoit punches out the 356 to 2.1L ENGINES - willhoit356

A modern 2 piece connecting rod. 18,000 RPM. No problem.
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