Here's a pic of me pulling the engine out of my 612 yesterday!

Thanks for the note.

I had the injectors professionally cleaned and balanced. I have pulled both injector rails and verified they are injecting fuel. If there is one thing that ISN'T wrong, it is fuel!

I hope to hear something more from Vince today. At least if he's verifies timing.

Stay tuned...

 

Well, for now Vince has confirmed that all my work was good.

On the timing, he was able to confirm the intake cams are all fine. We think the exhaust cams are fine too but both my hard copy and electronic manuals are incoherent (translation issue or a missing spec) as to the exhaust timing procedure. It is missing a line in it or something. I will try to post the language but it is messed up.

So, adequate compression, great spark (he confirmed), fuel, etc. I think there is some electronic can-bus communication issue or something.

Vince is determined to resolve it with me but it looks like my timing to the rear scribe marks puts the timing right on (I will confirm this when he gets the exhaust corroborated too).

Gotta love a salvage title car! I was warned but never expected this...

 

I think I may have just found the problem with a read through the (electronic version) of the WSM I have...

It appears you time the RHS cams off of the TDC indicator on cylinder 1. Then once done, you move the TDC indicator to cylinder 12 and do the LHS (driver's) bank. I don't believe my paper version had that information (I need to go back and check). As such, I had timed the whole engine off TDC on cylinder #1.

That would obviously put the timing slightly off (quite a bit off) on the LHS bank (which is actually the one running) and the timing on the RHS bank would be correct. The problem there is that the cam position sensor is positioned off the LHS intake cam. So this could screw up the injection and ignition timing to the RHS bank. So both would be less than ideal.

I have contacted Vince to discuss. I hope I am on to something here. Perhaps fatbilybob or Taz can confirm? Also, if someone has the specs for the exhaust valve timing (bucket and degree wheel) portion of the 612 or 575m, that would be appreciated. Like I said, I am missing that from both my manuals.

 

Thanks for this. I see it is the same as the 612. There is confusion in interpreting the exhaust valve part that I now think I have an explanation for (i.e. an interpretation).

I timed the LHS and RHS off of #1. Here's the confusion in the initial set-up. Should all the scribed timing marks line up (RHS and LHS) with #1 at TDC or should the LHS marks line up with the #12 cylinder at TDC? I think it means the latter. However, if you were planning on skipping the degree wheel portion of the procedure (and trusting the marks), you would/could read it as I did (time all 4 cam marks with #1 at TDC). If someone can confirm this misinterpretation, than we know our issue.

So, if this is the case, the crank if 60 degrees advanced relative to the cam timing on the LHS. Apparently not enough to contact valves against pistons (thankfully).

 

The fact that I never got a look at the timing marks with the engine at TDC at the beginning of the rebuild contributes to this issue. With the engine seized, I was unable to view it before disassembly. Bummer...

 

OK, thanks. So still hunting then...

Makes sense as doubtful I could product good compression numbers with pistons 60 degrees below where they should be on the driver's bank.

Cribbj, could you post the complete timing wheel procedure from the 550 manual for me please?

Thanks.

 

Good to see I have a fellow Norwegian watching the project! Surprised you didn't comment on my username. ;-)

As for the timing, Vince needs to finish his check. Then it's gotta be some electrical nuance. Again, fuel, spark, air, compression, all there. LHS bank runs well, LHS barely runs at all. Headers only on the car. Cats are not clogged. Injectors clean as a whistle. Lots of suction through intake and throttle plates operating.

The car does have a significant leakdown but it is comparable on both banks and the rings just likely need to bed in.

Vince has committed to figuring it out...

 

Not yet! He is still digging...

 

Thanks Dino...

Along those lines, I was just thinking about the "Roof Control Module" that I swapped out with a new one. This module is underneath the passenger footwell and apparently has something to do with CAN network.

I replaced the module proactively because I could see that it had gotten wet. It was indicated to me that that module did NOT need to be reprogrammed. But perhaps I am wrong? Reason I wonder that is because at one point I swapped back in the old one (as it had no burned board tracks or anything inside but had definitely seen water). When I swapped it back in, the car started stronger than with the new module. It then; however, went cold on the passenger bank too but that was BEFORE I had remedied the disappearing spark issue on the passenger side (where I was getting spark for the first several revolutions but it was then disappearing due to some interference in the line with the co-routed O2 sensor or a potentially compromised crank wire).

In any case, I just called Vince and told him we may want to look into that device. Either try the old one again or have the new one programmed.

Does anyone have any experience with the Roof Control Module and happen to know if it needs to be programmed??

Thanks.