Lose power and run rough. One of the problems is bad headers and bad guides have pretty similar symptoms. The 355 had slightly different problems than most other Ferraris and symptoms, causes, and fixes tended to be different as well. Many things violate the old rules of thumb and that is why those of us that have been experiencing it since 95 have some different opinions and approaches than those that did not. We got caught out a lot early on. So did Ferrari. Great car in many ways, just needs to be understood.
On the liners I think Mahle did make them or at least subbed them out and supplied them. I know the alloy liner had a Mahle logo. I thought the steel did too but can't swear to it. I have one on the shelf. I should take the wax off and have a look. On the rings that explains a lot. They have a Mahle log on them though so at least for now they are still passing through Mahle's hands. Some of that is not good news. Tim, are you reading this?
Thats not too bad, too LOL Just need liners or is it possible to have a new coating applied to them to bring them to spec?
There are a number of domestic companies that reapply nikasil. Going rate is around 200-300 a liner if I remember right. I have experience with none of these companies so I cannot comment on quality etc
Did you verify that they are steel or are you just going by the assembly number? The first thing to do is verify that they are indeed steel. There's a chance that they aren't steel, at least not on the side that is showing more leakage...
I have had alloy liners bored and redone. It was spensive but not as spensive as a new 355 liner from Ferrari. Would not have been worth it but I wanted to bore and stroke my 328 and keep the alloy liners.
Ain't working on old Ferrari's fun? Haven't you heard? It's no different than fixing a Toyota. Have you called the # I gave you?
Just guessing here but, maybe you have a plugged up/failed/stuck hydraulic lifter???? A read of this thread could possibly explain why??? http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/476284-any-355-owner-rebuikd-their-own-lifters.html If it was my car I would pull the cam and have a look at the condition of the lifter on the valve in question. Then, while I was in there I would remove the other cams and take the extra time to do the rest of the lifters. I would do that before I pulled the heads. But that is just me. You must determine what is best for you and your car.
Just don't run the engine with them swapped, make sure you swap them back when done (or replace if bad) and don't mix them up.
How would a bad lifter cause a leakdown issue? Just curious. If the lifter fails, it won't hold pressure so the valve wont open as far on the cam lobe cycle correct? Closed, it should not matter....or am I all wet here?
You know what, very good point!!!! My thinking was backwards = bad guess. None the less it still wouldn't be a bad idea to freshen up the lifers while he's in there. Okay I'll go sit in the corner now. "bad Ernie, bad, bad, bad". LOL!!!
Great, now I'm replacing 40 valve guides, rebuilding 40 lifters, maybe replacing 40 valves, should do the valve seats and springs as long as the engines out, might as well replace all 8 pistons and the rings and liners too. I think we just totaled out my car. I should probably part it out at this point I think I need to raise the price of remotes to pay for all this. Anyone need one? I haven't sold one in a while.
The only way a lifter could cause this would be to over extend. This could only happen if there was a loss of valve control (loft over the nose of the cam during extreme over rev). At that point the momentary loss of contact between the lifter and cam could cause the lifter to extend and attempt to take up this newly found real estate which, if stuck in that position could keep the valve off the seat. I don't find this likely at all but you asked so there it is I think it would take a mechanical over rev so extreme the rods would probably exit the block before there was a loss of valve control.
