308/328 Oil Pressure Conversion unit

I'm pleased to announce the completion of unit #00001. As you can see from the picture below, it's a complete setup: Includes the sensor, thread adaptor, wiring loom, gauge power regulator, and the conversion unit box.

Designed to be installed in the storage area at the back of the car with access to 12v and ground. Gauge power regulator requires installation behind the gauge cluster.

Completely solid state sensor is an industrial/scientific unit that is more robust and accurate than the NLA OEM unit, yet you retain the stock gauge. One-time calibration takes about 10 minutes, and is saved in non-volatile storage. Whole unit takes less than 1 amp of current, operates between 9.7v - 18v and is built with automotive power systems and temperatures in mind.

While we haven't decided on pricing yet, we welcome inquiries. I currently have 1 complete unit, and another board assembled (no wiring loom, box, or sensor yet). Both have been programmed and bench tested.
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I want one.

 

Every 308 owner NEEDS one.

 

Yes please

 

Count me in!

 

Oh boy oh boy oh boy! COUNT ME IN!

It will be so nice to have an accurate oil pressure gauge.

Thank you (and Art) for sticking with this crazy project and actually making it happen.

In pricing, don't gouge yourselves: make sure you account for all the intangibles and crap that a project llike this includes.

 

Thanks, great work but a question.

Can the box be located in the car somewhere?

In other words can I just use the existing signal wire from the sender and put the little black box behind the instrument panel or under the dash in that area somewhere?

I'd really prefer to do it that way if possible.



Unless the price is outrageous I'll take one for my car and another for stock.

 

Thanks for the level of interest (in less than a day). Looks like Art and I need to get cracking. There still a few things left for me to do. First and foremost is to install this on my car to build up an installation guide and discover any gotchas around the installation.

There's a question as to whether we need the thread adaptor or not, as it looks like the original OEM sending unit already has one. It would be really nice to use that. I won't know until I take my car apart -- unless one of you supremely experienced folks can answer that question.

Rifledriver: We considered this, but then we would have needed an extra box and small PCB for a 5V power regulator to energize the sensor. Plus, if you needed to twiddle with the calibration or get an update to the software, then you'd have to take the instrument cluster apart again. The design we have gets around all of that: Easy access to the brains and calibration, the brains board also powers the sensor, the original signal wire to the gauge is still used, and all you have to do is install a tiny and reliable voltage regulator behind the instrument cluster. Basically it was the best compromise between number of parts, ease of use, and troubleshooting/updating we could think of.

Still it bears thinking about and keeping in our back pocket.

 

That's OK. Just asking.

Let us know when available and how much as soon as you know.

 

Perhaps you can help us answer this question, though:

 

Q: Seems you are the person to ask. How do events seeing such in the compartment area consider this for judging?

rik

 

Rifledriver probably knows for sure, but if it's a choice between a working gauge and a non-working gauge (because of a bad OEM sensor) the answer seems pretty clear. Of course, this all become moot if the OEM senders magically start being produced again -- I just don't see that happening. As far as I've been able to determine (and I talked to a lot of people) these OEM senders were very specific to the 3x8 application. No other vehicle (Ferrari or otherwise) seems to have used the same range.

 

Over the years Ferrari had 2 different thread sizes for senders. Some use a reducer and some thread straight into the oil filter base.

If I were you I would just include an adaptor in the kit.

 

It is going to be a deduction but not major. Personally I'd call it 1/2.

 

Mr. Crall (Rifledriver): Art and I have a proposal for you, but your private message box is full and I have no other means of contacting you. Would you send me a PM with your contact information/email. It will be kept confidential between Art and I.

 

[email protected]

 

Here's the results from the pressure bench test using my compressor (which only goes up to about 120psi).

The sensor outputs a linear voltage between .5v (0 psi) - 4.5v (200 psi). That means:

psi = (SensorVolts - 0.5) / 0.02

0.50v = 0.000 psi (first gauge line)
1.35v = 42.50 psi (second gauge line)
2.20v = 85.00 psi (third gauge line)
2.50v = 100.0 psi <---- This is midway through the sensor's range
3.05v = 127.5 psi (fourth gauge line)
3.90v = 170.0 psi (fifth gauge line)

Pictures and results:

1. Test bench
2. 0.904v = 20.2 psi
3. 1.401v = 45.1 psi
4. 1.854v = 67.7 psi
5. 2.323v = 91.2 psi
6. 2.837v = 116.9 psi
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I now have 8 of these units completely built and ready to ship to whomever wants one. This is not a money making business, but rather something we like to do to help keep these cars on the road. That said, the price is $275 to cover all the parts and time to assemble for such small batches. Shipping costs depend on where it's going. Like the 3x8's, these are mostly hand made and subject to both our time and parts availability. If there is enough demand, I'll order enough parts and boards to do things in batches. For now, consider this first batch an introductory offering. While I've tested each of these on the bench, I don't have broad real world use yet. Feedback from the first batch users will go a long way to improving the units, the documentation, etc.

 

I want one. What to I have to do? Please PM me.

1984 308 QV

 

PM sent!

 

Thanks Tommy. PM replied.

 

Got it!

I'll settle up today when I get a break at lunch. Thank you so much.

 

Package will be in this morning's mail.

 

Tommy, I was given one to test and am very pleased. I took notes and photos of it but am still writing up some install procedures and suggestions and have not submitted them yet. I will do so this week yet.

If you have any questions you know where to find me. Also my email is [email protected]

The information they provided me should get you there but the short version is I located the box in the trunk with the ignition box. There is a switched 12v and a ground source there. You have a QV so it will be a little different from my 3.2 but I can look up the power source for you if needed. I ran the cable through the existing hole for the other cables and discreetly to the oil pressure switch. I dismounted the coolant tank and left it connected but tied out of the way to allow me to run the cable under it and to the oil pressure switch. It is easiest to remove the oil filter base to replace the sender. Pretty self explanatory.

The instrument panel needs to be removed. There is a small board that needs to be placed back there. I tried 3M mounting tape but it was too uneven a surface for it to work reliably so I used a big tie wrap around it and the body of the speedo to mount it very close to the oil pressure gauge and wired it as their instructions showed.

Pretty simple all in all and it can be done without jacking and taking wheels or access panels off. I am very impressed and finally have an oil pressure gauge that works.

I actually spent more time fixing other stuff I found during the job. Tools and experience wise I think any experienced and reasonably well equipped do it yourselfer should be able to pull it off without too much trouble. Find out first if you have a wrench that will remove the oil line banjo bolt at the oil filter base. That is the only unusual tool needed.

 

For future ordering so we don't run amok with FChat's policies. Let's leave this thread for discussion and feedback.

You want one?
Email: [email protected]

I'll need:
Name, address, phone number.
Number of units

I'll respond with availability and shipping estimate and get you scheduled in the case of needing to order parts and/or build things. I do prefer to do things in batches of at least 10. Finally, just remember to be patient. I'm a normal person with a day job.