WHAT'S LIMITING MY POWER?!?!

Possible but that would NOT cause fuel to be spit out of the carb.

Just remember, that those carbs were jetted just fine from the factory and worked well. Granted ethanol fuel doesn't have the specific energy that pain fuel has so a little up-jetting is ok. That said, even a full step up won't cause it to GO SLOWER! It may idle like crap and run rich but it will go just fine. You would be hard pressed to go so rich on the jetting that you could smell unburnt fuel enough to burn your eyes. It is easy to get the timing off (Just switch two plug wires) enough to have lots of the stuff.

Just hook up a pressure gauge, my vacuum gauge is old enough to have a pressure side. BUT if you are going to the trouble to disconnect the line, make sure you check pressure AND flow!

 

It seems like you're close to running down many of the ignition-related concerns. I might like to try & clear it out 100% so I can say I'm done. Of course, first, I'd check with the PPI supplier to see if they were able to verify if the engine pulled to high RPM.

Ignition: the issues you'd noted, plus I don't recall information about the condition of your spark plug extenders?? A visual inspection could be performed to look for arcing. Did you check them for arcing by pulling the dust boots and revving the engine in the dark? Or you could try wrapping them with insulating material or just flat our replacing them.

I still want to verify that timing at 5000 RPM via the markings on the flywheel... Did he claim to do that or just idle timing? What timing is it programmed for at 5000?

 

Per those settings your total advance is 32* the 2v hemi head is not that efficient to run such low timing advance. 10~14* at idle is OK, by 3k rpm you can go out to 30~34* and by 8k rpm you can add +10 ~ +14 more. Total advance in default mode for the 2V is 36* at 5k rpm to redline, under normal operation it can get to 45*.

 

For a quick comparosin, I pulled up a dyno sim for a carb'd 308 engine. Adjusting the ignition curve down to match your settings the engines is down 62hp at 6k rpm.

 

I'm also fine tuning my timing for the XDI system after a rebuild of my engine. I just contacted Nick who distributes the XDI system as a complete kit, and he suggested setting the knobs at 12-14 (initial), 28-30 (3000K) and -2 (8000K) which would make 40-44 at the higher RPMs and 38-42 at the top RPMS. Remember that you have to add (or subtract) each knob as you go along. I'm concerned about being able to hear the "pinging" of early detonation as the timing advances, however.

These numbers were higher that my previous conversion with him when my engine was new. Although we did discuss advancing the timing as the engine was breaking in. He mentioned that by 2000K to 2500K the timing should be about 33.

 

The std 2V has really low CR. going out to 42* total advance is OK. Nick's recommendations will get one in the ballpark, but it really is up to the owner to dial that in. Many factors at play with ignition timing on each engine, as many of the 2V's are anywhere from carb'd with P6 cams to bog std injected models with dished pistons and 7.5:1 dynamic CR.

Joe, by your numbers the range would 38~42* total.

 

1st knob = 12
2nd knob = 18
3rd knob = 8

Start there, that gives this layout, intial 12, 3k at 30 and ramps up to 38 at 8k. You can add more to the 3rd knob as you see fit but I wouldn't go beyond 12 which I don't think you can anyways.

Or you could go with:
1st knob = 14
2nd knob = 18
3rd knob = 10

that's 14* to 32* to 42* total.

Just keep in mind that you add or subtract the numbers from each knob setting to figure out the total timing at that point.

 

SMG2-You are correct on that these numbers are enough to get it tuned, but then the owner needs to fine tune it based on the particular engine. I've read that the 2 valve motors like more advance and that the Weber carbs like more initial advance due to way the fuel circuits are constructed.

Justin, I hope it is as simple as turning a knob and gaining the lost RPMs and power, but I would not count on it. I've rebuilt my carbs and had my initial timing at 8 and it still would rev freely and felt strong. I've increased it to 10 now that my engine is broken in and the next step will be 12. Its definitely a process.

 

Can you disconnect the new ignition and hook up the distributors (Or is it just one ?) That will quickly determine if it's your new ignition system?

 

Strictly speaking, since the hot main terminal on the batt is connected via the large + cable directly to the starter, if he used that starter terminal, he is essentially doing exactly the same thing as running a direct to the battery. And since there is a terminal there which is easy to utilize as opposed to adding connection at the battery terminal, it probably made for a neater/cleaner installation...or at least it SHOULD have...

 

When the power-limiting happens does anything funny happen on the tachometer?

Reason I ask is if the tach is dropping out this would indicate the ignition box is losing crank sensor pulses at higher RPM which might be caused by the sensor gap being incorrect. Just a thought.

 

Does it actually stop revving at 5-5500 or just continue to rev slowly past that? IOW, does the engine just "shut off" at the specified RPM and then "stutter" at that RPM level as the RPM drops back down/increases/shuts off/increases? If it does that, it would indicate that there is a rev limiter involved. I know you mentioned it was set for 10.5k or something like that but if the symptoms fit, I would sure recheck that. It's interesting that if the rev limiter was set to 10+ as you mentioned, that the shut-off is at about 1/2 that... I'd take a hard look at the way everything is set on that ignition. Though I guess that's some "DUH' kind of advice that you have already looked at.

 

Re: wiring to starter terminal

Sounds good to me.

It's a "best practice" to wire to the battery vs directly to the alternator as the alternator output can have electrical noise on it which the battery smoothes out. Using the big wire Enzo installed from the battery to the starter is plenty reasonable.

 

You probably checked all the fuel filters, i replaced mine after it wouldnt rev past 5k, now it pulls to 8k no problem.