Hey Guys, My mechanic is suggesting to change the wheel bearing since there is a bit of play in the front right corner. He told me to grab the top and bottom of the wheel and I noticed it was very minimal. On the driver front side there was no play at all. The mechanic suggested that I change both front wheel bearings just because its the right thing to do. I've never changed a wheel bearing on any of my vehicles before so this is completely new to me. When driving the steering feels pretty normal even at high speeds. I'm considering to just drive it the way it is for now since our roads here in Edmonton AB (Canada) are horrendous. What will be the consequences if I wait a bit till I change it? And at which point should I change it? Looking for feedback please. Thank you.
The wheel bearings on all Ferrari cars are horribly expensive. They are adjustable and may need to be tightened. If they loosen again after being correctly tensioned by a good Ferrari tech, then I would replaced them. A worn or damaged wheel bearing will fail by shooting the wheel off the car. How many miles on your car?
Do me a favor. Explain to me how you adjust a wheel bearing that is sealed and pressed into the hub? You might have been able to adjust them in 1972 with a split bearing. But not today. What you might experience is trashing the very expensive break system and it being a safety issue if not repaired. If you have to worry about replacing bearings and are asking how long you can drive the car with a potential safety issue makes it sound like you can't afford the car. Fix it.
F360/430 - the nut gets tightened a bit. I have yet to see a sealed wheel bearing on a 360/430, they are NOT sealed like a porsche. Ferrari sell the same crappy "hub assemblies" that were used in 72 except they also include wheel speed sensors and now cost $851 each. Nut #36 - retains the bearing on the axle shaft. Does need periodic adjustment. Ask your mechanic... Most likely the same on your car. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Adjustable?? News to me When did that happen? Adjustable tapered roller bearings were last used on a Ferrari on the 308 in 1984 and the 512BBi in the same year. It would be best to reserve advice to topics you are familiar with.
Might be a bad bearing, could also be a loose ball joint. Either can do as you describe. One of them needs replacement. No adjustment possible despite the really bad information being given above.
Listening... So when the bearing, not the ball joint, show signs of wear (rear) - measured play @ the wheel. Its done & replace it?
I have never worked on a Ferrari but this method works for me on other vehicles, with the wheel off the ground grab it at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and rock it. Movement indicates upper and/or lower ball joint wear. Grab it at the 3 and 9 o'clock position and push in and pull out at the same time. Movement indicates wheel bearing wear. In my experience, sealed bearings have always made a noise too when starting to go bad.
...3 and 9 o'clock could be worn tie rods (applies for both frt and rear). Looking how the rim moves in relation to the brake calipers would be a more accurate way as those are bolt to the upright on the 360 (and 430 I believe) and any play would to point to a potential problem...usually the "feel when you rotate the wheel" and noise is the give away IMHO.
I thought about the ball joints but PRESUMED his mechanic would know to check for those. I have presumed incorrectly in the past. Stabilize the hub from below and then check for movement of the disc assembly? Add tension to the assembly from below? (just in case it happens with mine..) I'd think to check for this versus just changing out the balljoints.
If I'd never worked on a Ferrari then I'd reserve the comments to the cars I've worked on personally. Ferrari uses a rose joint in the upper and lower A-arms. The aluminum arm surrounds the steel rose joint/balljoint. It's race technology that wears considerably in the real world in my experience. Ferrari uses a glue (Hysol) that can break down and give wear in the balljoint, as well as the balljoint itself wearing. When you just grab at 12 and 6, both the bearing and the balljoints can move if worn. 50k+ miles on mine. Original wheel bearings.
Rocking the wheel back and forth at 3 and 6 o'clock can indicate worn tie rods better IMO but the rest of the steering linkage needs to be secure to accurately narrow it down. Moving the wheel in and out with each hand at the same time in any opposite clock position can indicate worn or loose wheel bearings. I was just trying to help the OP troubleshoot the play in his a little better.
I was trying to explain that how you move the wheel can help you narrow down the source of play. I always count it a good day when I learn something new and I've never heard of a " rose joint". I'm going to research that some more. Thank you very much
My car has 21 KM , so about 15k miles. I just ordered 1 wheel bearing, ran me just over $1000 CAD , the exchange is killing us up north right now
Now that you say that I I'm unsure if it is the wheel bearing or the ball joints. It sounds like it is the ball joints, based on what you've just said since the balljoints is a racing technology I'll have it looked at either way by a local mechanic that works on exotics in my city since we do not have a Ferrari Dealer.
Please ignore what I said above - I was very wrong. I did use the nut to tighten a loose bearing at the race track and it lasted about 100 miles and showed more looseness. I should have replaced it immediately-as rifledriver indicated. Yes mine was about 700 USD, they seem to wear out faster when running slicks and tracking the car.
$700USD for a wheel bearing on a 360? Prices like that make my Aston and Porsche look cheap and economical to keep running! $700 is border line absurd for any wheel bearing. I'm I missing something with this wheel bearing?
