I am stuck...F1 question

If I wanted to call my mechanic I would. If we all just called our mechanic, there would be no point in asking any questions on this forum.
If you don't have anything positive to add, why not just stay silent, rather than constantly posting your sarcasm.

 

I still think the actuator could get bumped during a mount replacement if somebody jacks the motor up by the housing. Lol

 

Well if you are looking for the kind of bad advice most here are giving it was the right thing to do.

 

LMAO

 

If you're going to take the time to respond to almost every thread on this site, why not respond with real answers that correct the bad information going around ? That would much more constructive and a better use of your time. It takes the same amount of time to post your normal pithy comments.

 

Good advice regardless what the idiots think.

 

He (and the other *highly* respectable experts) usually gives you the answer in the first post. Generally it is simple, concise, and just what you need to do. But a lot can't take the truth and have to keep poking with BS gathered from other armchair internet experts.

A hug and a kiss on your head ain't gonna happen either. Seems to be what is needed more than truth on some of these threads.

 

Yup

 

Why does every good thread always have to turn in to this nonsense? What's the point?

 

The "good thread" was done by post #2. There aren't any hillbilly workarounds.

 

Actually I respond to a small minority of them. When good questions are asked, good answers are given.

Not really my fault your're an ******* and cannot accept good advice.

 

No shortage of those.

 

Tells a lot about a person what they choose to read into that.

 

I never did comment on this.

The actuator should be solidly enough mounted that something will be broken or bent before an adjustment can be affected. They are very low and the lower mount gets hit pretty regularly. They get bent, broken and even half ripped out of the actuator and I have never seen that effect operation.





I sincerely hope this answer did not offend anyone.
If it did, call someone who cares.

 

Pretty much why I don't ask for help here. There's an phone call away, if I need it.

 

.

 

Wise man

 

This was the second post in this thread.

This is where the thread should have ended.

And further on in the thread, the same advice (with respect to needing an SD1 or SD2 to diagnose /repair) was given again for good measure.

I think that's all that needs to be said on this topic, because as it stands it is turning into a "belt change interval" type of thread, and Lord knows we don't need any more of those.

 

Huh? you have to change the belts on these things.....??
Ad infinitum......

 

Apparently so. And I've heard that plenty of people have done it for less than $500 in their garage without dropping the engine and without a computer. And that 3-5 year thing? Just another bunch of bad information.

 

It is sad really. I hesitated for three days to post my question. But in the end I wanted to know if anyone else experienced the issue I was having. Brian's post pretty much confirmed what I knew. Hell, I need an SD just clear all the codes now.

What I find disappointing is that we as a group do not seem to be able to help each other without a bunch of back biting. It only takes one "holier than though" post to send every thread on this forum into ego-land and the support net some people want is gone.

The problem with my car will be fixed. It is a shop problem, not an F1 problem. Given the solid performance of the car & the systems prior to the service, I am not too worried. Just frustrated.

Whether I post the results & solution here after it is corrected remains to be seen.

 

Please tell us why you need a computer to do timing belts?

 

Watson take the actuator out by undoing the bolt and the shift rod.
Have someone go into the car and shift the transmission and see if the rod physically rotates and goes in and out. If it does then transport it to a shop with an sd and they can reinstal and fix it.
My shop in california did have the transmission physically jam and the actuator would no longer shift. At least if you did this you would know if the shaft is broken. If it is broken there are other options.

 

I know the feeling, a few suggestions:

1. Put RIFLEDRIVER on your forum ignore list so his posts don't show up, he isn't here to help anyone, just to crow about how mere engineers, physicians, lawyers etc. can never learn the task of mechanic which he and a handfull of others were born as.

2. Share the info you have and ask for the info you don't, ignore the noise from those who have no grease under their nails. I figure if the picture or writeup I post helps the next guy working on the same issue so much the better. Eventually despite all the resistance the understanding will emerge, those that can't and those that don't want progress on this should not dominate the discussion in the end.

 

So what happened?