How do you know it isn't fully disengaging?
I fired it up and it grinds a bit trying to put it in gear(sitting still) then starts moving forward as soon as you start to let the clutch up.
Hmmm........ Are the clutches facing the proper way? On my AP clutch plates one side is printed "flywheel side", and on the opposite side is printed "bearing side". Are they orientated the right way in the stack?
Lack of disengagement implies wrong set-up height. It has been too long since I have worked on these. Is it possible the HE flange and bearing are designed for the single plate clutch? I do not think the OEM dual disk can be just removed and single replaced if the dual flange and T/O bearing are used. I don't have a WSM in front of me to see how those two units measure up.
They are rebuilt discs and don't have any writing but are in there the way he diagrams and pictures show. I was told it was the same for both setups... but who knows.
Could be, I'm just guessing because I can't remember. If they said it is the same then it probably is. Did the pumpkin go back in nice and passive with no force? It is possible to force the pumpkin in with the bolts pulling the pumpkin in and binding the guts. I always put the pumpkin in most of the way slide my hands up and rotated the clutch discs and that helped index the splines before pushing the pumpkin the rest of the way over the pilot bearing resistance. There are 2 shafts input and clutch. Does that make sense?
Yes it went back together really easy. After engaging the clutches on thier shaft I slowly turned the setup while giving it a little giggle and push and the input shaft slid right in. I really don't have the time but I'm going to make the time in the morning to pull it out one more time and see if I can figure this thing out.
Ok so this morning I said hell with it I'm going to take this thing for a drive and see if I can screw some more up. So I pulled my other cars out of the way and pulled it off the lift. I just got back from driving around the neighborhood for about 15 minutes. Whatever was dragging seemed to free up and now at a stop I can move it through all the gears with no grinding and the clutch started to engage a bit higher on the pedal. It still seems to be pretty stiff to push the pedal and much harder to get it into the gears when driving. The car has been down and out for a good 7 months so maybe it will loosen up at bit more and I also have the console all tore apart working on the ac panel connections and stickies so I don't have the gate on there. As I drove it it started to seem more like shifter adjustment issues then the clutch, but that seems weird because it shifted like a dream before I worked on the clutch. I'm debating on calling the clutch good and putting on the exhaust. I've got to say it sounds pretty mean with basically open headers but I'm pretty sure I'll catch something on fire sooner then later.
Thank you all. I think I'm going to roll with it a see how it goes. I'm going to try to get the exhaust on tonight and get some miles racked up on it. I just unloaded a freight truck with some goodies for another project (construction) so I really have a bunch of stuff I should focusing on but it's pretty hard to walk away from the car when it wasn't working out right. I think I might have pull a couple all nighters and try to get my cars up to par.
