Midrise Scissor Lift and 308 GTB

What is your ceiling height now?

 

I've got a scissor lift where the platform rises up to about 42". Works great for most jobs: wheels, suspension, brakes, steering rack, removing window motors all at a decent working height (I'm 5'11"). About the only jobs where I've sort of wished I'd had a higher lift was bolting on the front exhaust manifolds, starter/alternator electrics and gear linkage where I tended to work at a lower height on my back. But that's about 15 mins in 5 years of ownership.

Alex

 

I have a Norco mid rise lift and built ramps out of 2x3's for a little more clearance pulling onto it. The bottom of the 308 in the center is just flat with little needed access anyway. I have done just about any maintenance that is needed on my 308 with that lift. And it dosen't take up any room when not needed, you can pick them up used for about a grand.

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I just wrapped up construction of a new garage literally built around the care and maintenance of my 308. Because of lot width restriction, we couldn't install a 4-post or 2-post lift and still fit two cars comfortably, so I went with a scissor lift. I can only tell you, as far as advice I've received from everyone else here before I built, it is WORTH having a concrete cutter come in and make a depression in the floor so you can come and go as you please without driving up on ramps. We actually cast a 42" x 80" x 4" depression in the floor, and poured an extra foot of concrete below that pad for reinforcement. I was advised by another forumer to "ramp it" down so that the lift could roll into place instead of having to hoist it in. I didn't follow his advice, and deeply regret it. But, bottom line, makes for great access, and worth modifying the floor to accept it. Since you already have an existing garage, I'll say that the forumer who originally suggested this scheme to me also had an existing garage, and hired a cutter to come in and take out the floor for about that 42x80 area, then poured two feet of fresh slab in there.
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Max Jax, best midrise lift to get

 

Yes on all counts, BUT ultimately, my fiancee will be parking where the Ferrari is now, and the 308 will park over the lift. I expect not to trip on it then, but - so far - every friend and family member has nearly wiped out from failing to look down (can't blame them, they were seeing the 308 for the first time). The unit comes delivered on a palette, and weighs 1000lbs. There is NO sliding it off and into place. I had to rent an engine hoist to pick it up, but then it wouldn't go the last 8 inches because the hoist feet would have gone into the pit. Moral: ramp it in (but measure out the 80" first, and add the ramp length to that). It will be well worth it, particularly if you move and want to take it with you. As for tripping into the pit WHILE working, I only just got it fill set up this weekend, but I'll post a pic later so you can see it raised up; you basically have to work from outside it's footprint because of the hydraulic rams and structure supports.

 

FULLY SET UP, not fill set up

 

I have an EZ Carlift, from ezcarlift.com, and I'm satisfied with it. I've done everything from timing belts/cam timing to brake jobs, to cooling system overhaul, to AC system rebuild, and there's never been an issue with the height of this lift (26"). I will say, the lift is light enough to handle alone: I store it standing against a wall, and roll it under the car, for use. Unfortunately, it is too tall to fit under my car without about a 3/4" lift first, which I do by driving onto plywood pads I've made. The only other downside of this lift is that its aluminum side rails sagged too much for my likes, and I've reinforced it by laying on a 3/8" aluminum top plate. Kind of a PITA, but it works, and for the price of this lift (<$2K all in, even with the added aluminum plates, etc.), I'm satisfied.

That said, now that I've seen the floor recess in this thread, I'm dying to do that to mine... But then you have to park accurately, to use the lift, which I don't have to do today (in fact, I can take my lift outside and use it, too!)

Good luck! Please post pics of your final choice and installation.

 

I don't understand the midrise lift at all. You have 8-9ft of ceiling height? Just get a regular 4 post with 8ft high posts. Or if your existing 4 post lift is not too tall reuse that. If you don't want to spend $1000 moving it, rent a trailer or truck and trailer. Disassemble lift and use an engine lift to put the heaviest piece on the trailer. Only the "runner" part with the hydraulic cylinder is too heavy for two men to lift. Easily done in a day if the two houses aren't far apart.

308 is 44in tall, so you would still have 4ft under the car, and if you sit in a chair with wheels its not bad to roll around to where you want to be under the car.

I have the standard ramps, and deep front spoiler and have no trouble with going up on the lift. A car on a 4 post lift is way more stable than a scissor. With a scissor, you have to position the car correctly over the lift. Position it wrong, start wrenching hard, and it might fall off! Do some searches and you'll see pictures.

 

The reason I went with the scissor lift was simply the width constraint with a two-car garage. I just re-read that you have a 4-car garage, so presumably you have all the space you need. When I was shopping for my lift, the mechanics' advice I got was:

1) 2-post lifts most preferable because they suspend the car in the air, rather than on skids. This is the superior lift, BUT can require a special commercial grade of higher-psi concrete and/or thicker slab, and must be specially bolted to the floor. My fiancee put her foot down (it IS her house) on this count.

2) If you get a 4-post lift, you will also need a bridge jack because the car will drive onto the skids, and then you'll need something to prop up the rear end if you have to pull off either wheel do do clutch/belt/plumbing work, etc. One benefit - from a design standpoint - is that you can mount safety equipment (fire extinguishers) and extra shop lights to the posts. Also doesn't NEED to be bolted into the floor.

3) The scissor lift is a good compromise because it rolls right into place, can collapse under the car, raise up the body up to 48" while giving access to the engine compartment, and isn't in your way as you move AROUND the car. Opening a door with a 2-post lift can be a challenge, and - with an 8' ceiling - having four large posts can quickly become claustrophobic. I'll be putting up my car for an oil change this weekend, so I'll report back on access and take a few pics for you.

Lastly, I measured the thing with the lift arms tucked in, and there's an inch of clearance to the bottom of the car, AND about 2-3" per side between the tires when you drive over it. Pick a point to center the car when you pull in, and you should be fine.

 

Sorry -

I'm on standby for an oil change, but it was a 45 degree downpour all day, so I couldn't take the car out for a decent drive to warm up the oil first. Hoping tomorrow.

 

A four post will fit height wise. Standard one is 83" high. Scissor can block some access to center of car. Price difference isn't much, but since you already have a 4 post it seems like a waste not to use it. Unless of course it isn't the right height. If primarily for wheel access than, yes, 4 post isn't the way to go and you have one so you would know. Car can drop off of 2 post or scissor. If you are careful it will never happen, but the risk is always there.

 

Here's my install from many moons ago. Hope it helps.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q-sponsored-algar-ferrari/132632-my-bendpak-md-6xp-installation-pictures.html

 

I have 9' foot ceiling in the garage, works great for years, mine is a snap-on, it's a solid table top with legs out the side
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Some pics, as promised.

Got a few dry hours this afternoon, so my buddy and I took the car for a short drive (emphasis on short, as I'm still dealing with an ignition/power issue), just enough to get the oil up to temp around the neighborhood, then put it up for an oil change. I need to do some better fine-tuning of the lift arm positions in the future, but I basically drove the car over the lift until the wheelbase was centered - from a side perspective - with the platform. After hearing everyone bemoan the inherent instability in this thread, I started by just raising it to the first safety lock position. In its LOWEST locking position, the car was high enough for me to roll in on a creeper, lying on my side, without touching the bottom. As pictured below, the lift allows access to the entire motor and exhaust system. Did spill some oil into the floor depression, which was a b***h to clean, but otherwise, cannot recommend this more highly. On the first or second notch position, geometrically speaking, I don't see how the thing could topple, as it's wider than tall with a low center of gravity. The lift itself weighs nearly 1000lbs and has heft of its own. I rolled myself around by pulling/pushing myself along the chassis and there was no sign of any wobble or give. Solid as a rock.
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I have a very low ceiling in my current garage.
But I have a low-rise lift, and can do quite a lot with it.

The only caveat is that you really want a two post lift for exhaust work.
Any low or mid rise lift will obstruct under the car.

I originally got the low rise lift when doing suspension work (coil-overs) on the Celica GT-Four.
You can't do suspension work with jack stands, as you're fighting the anti-sway bars.

I just want to get a big enough garage that I can leave the lift in place.
At 1000 lbs, it's not all that "portable".

As I get older, I find it's even handy for waxing. Rather than bending down, lift the car.

 

I respectfully disagree; the exhaust system is not obstructed on mine (see above). You essentially need to pull the motor anyway to remove the front header, so what difference does it make if you can't pull it from underneath? Perhaps it's just a matter of car positioning on the lift, but my entire motor and the exhaust system seems accessible.