Apparently, you don't have to disconnect the cables and remove the shift rod. http://youtu.be/qxrLnNDiICU I don't completely understand the part where the punch and funny pliers are used in disassembly.
I don't recall looking at it and thinking there was some shortcut but you might figure something out. If you are referring to my pictures the forceps are just there to stop the assembly from moving down as I pop the retaining cups off the end of the shifter. You could use anything metal if it was strong/thin enough. I have the pliers reversed because I am using the plasti-dipped end of them to protect the parts I am prying on.
I have had the worst luck replacing the small block, part #172934. I'm using a shim to the left of the block and hammering lightly on the rod. If I tap lightly, the ball does not go in, but when I give it some force, it breaks right off. I've spent almost $100 on a $30 part that looks like it's worth 50 cents! Does Hill offer this in aluminum? They should. I greased the inside of the block and the end of the ball pin. I'm wondering if that's actually producing greater resistance instead of helping it to slide in place. Any tips would be appreciated.
What I did when I replaced it.. yes it is "fun" to put back in. I didn't take the entire assembly out of the car btw. What I did was I put a metal plate in between the shift rod and the socket piece it goes into and then put gentle force to get it to pop onto the shift lever. Then I took the plate away and fit it into the socket assembly. Just be careful with the moving parts of the assembly, like the socket part it fits into. I made the mistake of pressing downward when I should have pressed sideways and *POP* I broke it. $150 later it was fixed. But it's brittle material and silly mistakes add up.. BTDT!
Thanks Curt. Did you press it in by hand then? Did you go at it straight on? Did you lube around the block or the round end of the pin or leave it dry?
I used a simple European general grease. I guess that lithium grease should work OK. Here is diagram how I got that silly part on the horizontal shift lever shaft. (attempt at own peril) Image Unavailable, Please Login
thanks much. is the plastic stationary/attached? should the ball head be greased? what exactly did you push down instead of sideways and break? seems it could only be pushed through sideways
Replaced bushing with Hill Engineering part (71.00 from Ricamba), and shifts perfectly now. Great pics and instructions. Took me about an hour and a half. As I lifted the shifter out, half of the plastic bushing fell off. It was completely broken. The most difficult part for me was getting the little square plastic part off the end of the thru shaft, it was stubborn but didn't break.
Great to see this thread still active since 2009 I sold that car a few years back, sure do miss her! Anyone that has shift issues - try this fix. It really is not that difficult! Chris
Chris' legacy lives on in 2017. Completed the part change myself today. I removed the shift box casting from the vehicle, was easier to clean and replace all the grease without worrying about the cabin interior. Shifts were difficult from 1st to 2nd and now resolved. Thank you. Doug Image Unavailable, Please Login
When I first pull out of my neighborhood, the shifter doesn’t seem to like changing very much. I sometimes have to go back to neutral with clutch out and try again to avoid jamming it in. Once I’ve been driving a few minutes it seems to warm up and everything is fine. Could that be a sign that it’s time for new bushing or something else?
This is a fantastic write-up and documentation of the common problem of the wearing/broken OEM shift bushing. I experienced the same symptoms (irregular difficult blocked shifts into 2nd and 1st gear even at low rpms, 5mm+ lateral play in shift lever). I ordered a Hill bushing from Daniel at Ricambi and had my indi switch it out. Car shifts perfectly now and there is no longer any lateral play in the lever. Very pleased with the results.
Great thread! Figured I post some pictures of the same bushing failure on my 360. It was in for a belt service and we decided to rebuild the box and replace the cables. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Was something wrong with the cables? I too had the balky shift problem when I bought my 2002 360 in 2012 with 13K miles on it. The linkage had a typical hairline crack and I replaced it with the billet metal Hills bushing and it has been perfect ever since with 27K now on the car. I did not mess with the cables at all so that is why I wondered why you were replacing the cables.
The technician indicated that the cables were worn. Good to hear that the hill part has served you well for so long. My 360 was coming on 40,000 miles, and looking through the extensive service history I didn't see the repair before. Hoping for another 40k before opening up that box again
question， how do you remove the "rear bushing", my purpose is to remove the whole "center piece" that holds the shifter rod. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If I remember correctly that part that you have circled has to be tapped out by using a punch or whatever you can get in there. Taking that large nut out from the other side helps give you more room. I don't know why that damm thing is so tight in there. When I built mine I could hardly get that new bushing in so i reamed that hole out with some emery cloth
just removed the large nut on the other side, it gives maybe 1/8 inch of room in there. so do I tap it from inside of the square, tapping it out, correct? That means I have to tap it at an angle?
yes hit it slightly at different spots. see if it will move. There's no other way. If you look up the part number and Google it you will see what it looks like . It might be a good idea to do that 1st that way you have an idea of what the part looks like and what you're doing.
