replacement parts expierences/problems

I had the faces fall right off on several sets of MM points. The bore for the pivot of the rubbing block was not parallel to the rubbing block.

Been working on theses for a very long time and their QA fell off a cliff 10 or 15 years ago.

 

I've seen that too. One reason that I have a few sets of "good used" points laying around. Sometimes better than the new ones.

 

Is there any way to tell the good MM points from the bad MM points? I have some NOS sets but not sure how long ago I got them.

 

I wish I knew. By the time I saw a problem all there was out there was the junk.

Makes me wonder if we should fabricate a kit to put in some American points. I am sure those are all made in China now too.

 

Randle,

Send them to me and I'll compare them.
No charge for disposal :wink

Scott

 

Hi Freeman,
Please let me answer your question about the ignition points problem. At the former ignition points the sliding/isolation piece (where the movable contact is fixed) was made out of Pertinax. It´s pressed hard paper which absorbs the lubrication grease and releases it during running. The new aftermarket ignition points use here some kind of plastic which seems to be unsuitable. Even with lubrication grease the sliding zone gets gets hot and wears quickly. After 600 km operating distance there is hardly any opening of the ignition points. Beside of this the two contact surfaces aren´t parallel which results in a very high surface pressing in a very small area which also let the contact wear quickly. This can often solved with careful bending of the movable contact lever but the big problem is the wrong material of the sliding/isolation part.

Pistone

 

Manfred, thanks for the explanation...

 

Matthias, Manfred,

To learn more, what ignition system are you using? What type of coil? Could the points be getting "too" hot? Between the vendors, there seems to be a variety of ignition points available. You've tried all of them? Are all the sliding/isolation pieces constructed out of the same material? How many times has it happened at around 600km? Are there any other Dino owners who have experienced this?

Freeman

 

Freeman, original set up with Magneti Marelli Dinoplex AEC 101 D and coil BZR 205 A

 

I couldn't imagine anything else from you ;-)

Freeman

 

Anybody know what surface finish the points contacts have when new? I'm thinking my used points which have good springs, and rubbing points, but the contacts have some pitting might be able to be polished back to being serviceable??

 

The distributor/rotor in my 1959 Austin-Healey BROKE in the middle of executing a pass on U.S. 2 heading over to Leavenworth, WA to meet up with my Healey mechanic while Synchro was following, and the engine went instantly dead. Synchro and I were very lucky that I didn't end up crashing into oncoming traffic (thank God there was none at the time) - as not only would I have been taken me out, but it could have taken out the car I was passing, any vehicle that could have been coming the other way, and Synchro following.

My Healey mechanic (also expert on Jags, old Aston Martins, and Cosworth-Ford F1 engines) said that virtually ALL points and rotor assemblies that he has seen in the last 10 years have had serious problems and he is advising that everyone should convert to complete electronic systems for safety purposes. The rotor metals are flexing and then breaking off completely at lower rpms and much earlier in the estimated lifespans than they used to.

 

This thread on points lubrication and describing the felt wick is good reading: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q-sponsored-algar-ferrari/153950-point-cam-lube-whats-best.html

Freeman

 

I can't imagine why anyone would be using points in their dizzy unless they are afraid the concours judge is going to look inside. Less accurate timing, much higher chance of failure.

The condensers are also junk today in my experience. In all something to avoid.

 

the reproduction tank looks almost identical to the original one and seems to be very good quality....
(reproduction on the left)
thank you Superformance
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They are good reproduction tanks Mathias, i see them come into the SF and was amazed at the quality. I am unable to comment if they fit OK but it would be good to give SF feedback.

If it wasnt for the likes of SF (& others) making repro items and sourcing / remaking obsolete parts, most of us will be sucking our thumbs, so thumbs up to Superformance for doing it.

They need feedback to get things spot on.

 

They look great!
Do they have interior baffles like the originals?

 

what are interior baffles?

 

Panels with holes that allow fuel to move through the tank, in a controlled fashion.

Regards, Alberto
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all as in the original tank....

 

When you look down the fuel sender mounting hole you can see the divisions that counter slosh
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On July 23rd I ordered a set of replacement rubber roof/window seals for my GTS from Cicognani in Italy via their website. I got a response email almost immediately, and this morning, less than six days later (including a weekend) the DHL truck showed up at my suburban Chicago address with the seals. The seals look great and were nicely packaged. I am very pleased.

 

Front Batchboard issue from GT Car Parts here:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/206-246/92315-nonfitting-dino-front-batchboard-repro-issues.html

 

Sorry, a little off topic but what is the correct paint code or colour for the wheels on a 72 E series 246?

 

Here is a great thread and also link to Paul / Rob's restorsation of the same
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/206-246/301091-wheel-paint-3.html