I removed the pulley nut, but the pulley didn't budge. I didn't put much muscle behind it. Did you use a pry bar?
I used thin vice grips to remove the studs. This of course ruined the studs. Small quarter turns at a time. If there is a better way I would do it. But with the gas tank in I don't think there is enough room.
MaterMech wrote up a procedure on page 4 of my thread. He's the one that was able to remove the bracket. I don't think he removed the studs, but I could be wrong. He did have to remove the alternator and the pulley though - Tom
If you remove the pulley you don't have to remove the studs.If your this far you should replace the pulley anyways so its o/k to pry it wont take to much for it to come off.
It depends on the year of your car.The later cars you cant just change the bearing.The bearing is part of the pulley.
You wont know till you take it off.I've changed two on a 98 and a 99 and both the bearing was part of the pulley.The bearing alone is $30.00 and complete pulley is $120.00.
Woohoo! Stuck a prybar up there and gave it a gentle wack and the pulley came off! The assembly pulled right off. Thank god! Just waiting on parts now.
I would try having it welded, lucky I have a local shop that's very reasonable. They repaired my full titanium STi exhaust for $25 when a hanger tore off
You have the old style pulley were you can replace the bearing.notice the snap ring.bearing is easy to match up should be no more than $30.00
Coo. Dave Rocks just send me the correct bearing to buy. Was able to overnight it via prime. SKF 62302-2RS1/C3MT33 Radial Bearing, Single Row, Deep Groove Design, ABEC 1 Precision, Double Sealed, Contact, C3 Clearance, Standard Cage, 15mm Bore, 42mm OD, 17mm Width: Deep Groove Ball Bearings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific SKF 62302-2RS1/C3MT33
you should of matched it up its like i told you its a nothing special bearing..$30.00 cdn is what i paid thats like $20.00 USD now..lol
I wouldn't mind paying the higher price of a good quality bearing like SKF. The "MT33" suffix means that it has higher quality lubricant inside, good for up to 120C. Cheaper bearings would have standard lubricant good for up to some 90-100C.
So, when I install the tensioner. Can I install it without the pulley attached so that I can get to the bolts easier or will I need to install it completely assembled?
Here is what I suggest. Now that you have all that space, double nut and remove the studs. Replace them with long bolts. Then you can assemble the whole unit.
I have always put it in fully assembled. It's a PITA, but that's the way to do it. I pull the studs and then thread them in. If you replace the studs with ones that accepts an allen key you can get them in and out easy and yet retain the advantage of a stud.
guy's you don't need to pull the studs.just push back the bolt that holds pulley there is enough room to get the pulley on.but if you want to pull the studs all the power to you.
