Anyone ever done this or seen a link to some details? I found this interesting but not specific to the 348. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/detailing-showroom/486962-cleaning-engine.html What specifically should be covered and protected? I assume alternator and fuse box. Advice? Ideas? Pictures of what you have done?
I just posted this in a response to the thread in the Detailing forum, but just in case you don't see it, Aerospace 303 protectant is awesome for lots of surfaces once they're clean and fully dry. For example, the plastic tail light covers will look much newer if you'll coat them as directed. I used it on the cowl under the wipers, and around the opening for the front trunk on my 348. Made that area look like new and it dries completely so it doesn't attract dust. It also has UV protectants to help reduce fading and chalking. I don't think I'd use it on the airbox though-- it would probably be difficult to get an even finish. But it's great for rubber hoses, plastics, and even some painted surfaces. Oh, and the Griot's engine cleaning solution really is awesome. There may be better stuff out there that I haven't tried, but the Griot's stuff really is magic. Just blow dry the engine when you're done to help get water out of places you don't want it pooling, and also to reduce water spotting. Don't forget to cover the alternator and as many connectors as you can get to, especially those for the O2 sensors. All of those are supposed to be water resistant, but in reality it's all too common to find water in those connections after the engine has been wet. I use a garden hose and just lightly rinse-- never a pressure washer or nozzle. If possible, I'd let the engine dry for a few hours, or even days, before starting it up so as to let the belts and cogs/pulleys dry. Good luck. Post before & after pics when you're done.
I've read that about the garden hose too: don't use a pressure washer. However I've read that many people do clean their engine when it is already warm and then go for a drive, so that the heat of the engine dries everything. What do you guys think ? Should the engine be warm before cleaning it ? Should the engine run / go for a drive once it is clean and still wet ?
Had my engine out service done and discovered a great deal of factory cosmoline was in place. Paid a specialist to detail the undercarriage and engine bay while I was in for service. Here are some pics.
Beautiful, Chris! Kudos to the detailer. Do you happen to know what insulation is fitted on the bonnet? It looks more appropriate than the shiny aluminum stuff that's often used.
My 92 has that brown stuff, I don't know whether it's cosmoline or some sort of undercoat, all over the bottom of it.
Thanks Mike! I believe even the shiny aluminum you have seen is someones later attempt at repairing the original insulation. I am no expert, but it is my understanding, the factory foam was just that, foam. Until I just had it repaired, I had the original black factory foam. It had a rubber backing but routinely came off and in many 348's I have seen it would be hanging off as the glue just wouldn't hold over time and heat. Plus the material simply degraded. F1 Imports in Naples has a factory look alike product that replaces the original foam and they adhere it with a more current and better holding high heat glue. I really like the clean look of it.
Probably cosmoline mixed with dirt/grime. Thats OK, it means you drive it! It would be a more yellow tone if it were cleaner. Typically lower mile cars have the cosmoline and it looks yellow. I'm not aware of any way to clean it back to the yellow tone. I'd guess cleaning it would just remove it as it is a coating.
I still have the original insulation on mine, but it's not really black. Yours is the best replacement I've ever seen. Great engine pics by the way.
Actually I don't drive it. The car has 1900 miles on it and it's never been washed. It is pretty much white glove clean and the material appears brown to me. I think the stuff is some sort of undercoating, it's on the suspension parts, inside of the wheels and so forth.
Ron, if I ever see your car in person I will be careful to wear my drool bib... because I'll need it.
I just realized that Chris' car is apparently an SS, so extra-extra kudos for the presentation. Veddy nice.
As per the original question regarding "detailing" and I hate that word.....The best tool to use when "cleaning" your engine compartment is a few good quality paint brushes. After spraying the area with a decent brand of cleaner such as "Spray nine" or " Fantastic" , rub the cleaning agent into all the nooks and crannies with an appropriate size paint brush of about 3/4" and rinse off with fresh water. Just do a small area at a time and progress to cover each area untill done. I like to start the car soon after I'm done to let the engine heat help dry out any moisture left. Also use an air gun with your compressor and that is also a very effective way of eliminating any left over water in electrical connectors and other various small spaces. Also don't be afraid to remove simple things like the air box or inner fender wells. You will be surprised at how much better access you can get to area's you want to clean, sorry I meant "detail". You can always apply some kind of "magic spray" after everything is clean and dry, but I try to keep in mind that the object of this exorcise is to clean and/or restore what ever surface as to most reflect the original. And most important, don't get OCD over it. Drive it and get it dirty.....you can always clean it again.
