Tips/tricks for re-installing a 348 clutch housing?

Good man, best to do it all now, saves pulling the pumpkin back off in 12 months time to replace worn clutch plates.

 

Those friction plates are totally shot. What thickness have you left?
I can't see any grooves in the pic at all.
You have set up height in the workshop manual of the pressure plate splines above the flywheel. There is a degree of tolerance but I suspect you are outside that.
Getting over 30 out of a ferrari clutch is good going. But is always something I would check know and probably replace whilst in there if over half worn given the small amount of wear parameters on these.
If your getting relined I would always do the pressure plates as well, if a refurb make sure the shop is able to add material to rear to make up for any loss when skimming. And that they are able to balance it properly.
Also check there is no sideways movement in the flywheel indicating wear in rear pumpkin bearing. That could be affecting your angle of attack too.
Another problem I've seen is loose rivets on hub mount.
All repairable don't ever buy new flywheel from ferrari!

 

I believe what thy are saying is that if the setup height is out of range when assembled with new disks then replace the hard parts.
Or it's nothing more then one of the many written excuses Ferrari propogandizes to help the dealerships seperate you from your money.

 

I do not think your stock setup height could be out of range enough to prevent reinstallation of even below spec discs. I have used these guys to resurface clutch discs. You MUST be very specifc with these people that any clutch that is rebuild outside of specs will be returned. Make sure you let them know the uncompressed and most important compressed thickness. One reason I like organic clutch discs is that they wear much faster than the metal. So there is a 90% chance you leave the PP and FW alone and get organic plates made to spec and it will work just perfect for a street car. In fact, I lightened my FW pack and removed marcel springs in discs and remade discs for under $30 bucks a plate back when I raced my 348 and it worked perfect under race conditions. Ferrari wants you to buy the whole assembly. If I was selling you clutches for a living that's what I would recommend too. My kid needs shoes.

Friction Materials
1425 Santa Fe Ave,
Long Beach, CA 90813
(562) 436-4224


https://www.fortwayneclutch.com/

 

The thicknesses i have are
Intermediate plate thickness 9.00
Friction plate Thickness at rest 7.25
Thickness under load 6.90
Wear limit 0.8

and Set up height 47-51mm above flywheel surface
so the plates are not as bad as first thought but could do with a reline.
The thing to check with the metal is for any dishing, whist fbb is right organic causes less damage in terms of removing material it can cause lots of heat that does its own damage. so check they are flat at least, all of the contact surfaces.
as to the contact height we always do that on a table with hydraulic spindle to clamp it down, so far easier than when on car. if you have a hyd press you could make something up that clamped it down and enabled you to measure this. or drill and tap a few holes into something flat to bolt it down to, then measure to that flat surface below.
But i am also keen for you to check the rear bearing is ok, which is simple, just rock the flywheel from side to side and see if any movement.
good luck.

 

So do you know what the problem was.....?

 

According to my measurements, both splines start engaging at exactly the same time/position. The distance between the starts of the splines is 51 mm on the shafts and exactly the same measured on my twin clutch & flywheel assembly that I have not disassembled yet. I don't know the wear of my clutches but it should not be much after 12,000 miles. If the wear is at the limit (0.8 mm per clutch) the prop shaft splines would engage 0.8 mm earlier than the clutch splines, provided the plates wear is equal at both sides (0.4 mm per side). 0.8 is not much and should not make a difference.

I just completed "fabrication" of my guide-studs. My car is on the ground (rear wheels up) so, in addition to the guide-studs, I will have a scissor jack under the pumpkin to fine-position it and not let it hang on the guides. Hopefully, it will go in fairly easily.
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Small correction: if both clutches are 0.8 mm worn, the prop shaft would engage 1.2 mm earlier than the clutch splines (0.8 mm wear of the inner clutch plate + half of the wear of the outer clutch plate.

The slack in the housing holes over the stud-guides you mentioned is the exact reason why I intend to support the assembly with a jack which will take the weight and I will also be able to center it around the stud-guides. Then I will have the feel of what is happening inside.

 

We have done this more effectively with 2 people - me under the car providing the muscle to support the pumpkin and Ernie above to guide the splines/plates. Ernie would engage the first disk then rotate the pack a slight amount to get the second to grab. Seemed to work best after a break, beer and topping off the F-ing curse jar.

 

Glad to hear it's on.

 

gee. what are you using for an alignment tool? I used to do dual discs by eye! then I acquired a broken clutch shaft and the clutch pack goes on 100% of the time no problem. Sounds to me your speedworks method is making up for a cruddy tool. glad you are back together.

 

Nice job! I hate putting that pumpkin back on.